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sorry bro your gunna get booked the way your going

tooo many nebies owning skylines trying to race everything they see givin the rest of us a bad name cruizin on saturday night a silver 40th aniversary line was trying to race me from tweed to surfers paradise stockas apart from a bov . These sort of people dont realise it is very annoying and they need to be slapped gave him a little go get him to stop up to speed limit and he keeps going id already beaten him once on stock boost and he still tries knowin that ive got another 6 pound to throw at him sad thing is he was cruizin with the group i were derrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Ive drivenen a few trucks including some big nissan UD's that can weigh upto 12 tonne with freight between Sydney and Canberra many times and the amount of effort it takes to slow down a 6,12or 18 speed truck weighing up to 90 tonne is more dangerous than anything. I just got into canberra one morning at about 3am and hit a kangaroo you cant stop that quick it just exploded., what if it was a kid chasing a ball (very traumatising) same goes for an excel and little crap boxes you may aswell be driving a truck cause compared to a skyline thats how long it takes to slow them up Personally id rather crash at 100kph in my skyline than 40kph in a peice of shit mazda 121 These people should compare our cars with theirs while our cars stick to corners their cars stick to telegraph poles. FFS go and do something productive when writing legislations like keeping rapists and murderers in jail for ever.(now that would protect young people) You cant tell young people what to do. A peice of paper and the blue and red are going to have to work a lot harder and wiser if this goes ahead cause nothin they change is going to stop me from driving my pride and joy. The amount of people that will go bankrupt from not being able to drive to work and pay for thier car and other debt, we will go into a depression and then unemployment will rise thus the demise of the ecconomy destroying Australia and all that we stand for. Im up for driving my car right up thier ass, then they will see an accident...ooops

how much for sunvisors if they will fit r33 series1 +postage 2 Tweed Heads 2486 pm me

A few people have posted a thread on this but there a heaps of people that musnt have found it. This is the diagnostic guide for skyline owners (most of em anyway) For most people this guide should give you a good indication of what is going wrong according to your stock ecu i did the test on mine and it came back with an error code of 12 which is the afm i replaced it and it now runs like brand new. give it a go before you pay someone else to TRY and do it and save yourself some money. This particular one was posted by Skyline_Boy and i am not trying get praise for following up on his thread i am simply bringing it to everyones attention so here it is aswell, It can also be found in the diy section of the site. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35733 this includes small diagram for mode changing Hope this will tell you whats wrong with your car. ECCS has 5 modes : Mode 1 - Exhaust Gas Sensor monitor. When the engine is warm (closed loop) the green led turns on for lean, off for rich. It should alternate. When it is cold (open loop) it will be either on or off. Mode 2 - Mixture ratio feedback control monitor. During closed loop operation the red led should turn on and off simultaneously with the green led when the mixture is controlled within the specified values. During open loop the red led stays on or off. Mode 3 - Self Diagnosis. See below Mode 4 - Switches On/Off diagnosis. The inspection lamp monitors the idle switch portion of the throttle valve switch, the starter switch, vehicle speed sensor an other switches with an on/off condition. Mode 5 - Real Time diagnosis. Same as Mode 3, but it flashes the errors as they occur. To select the various modes : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35733 for picture of way to select modes With the ignition ON take a small screwdriver and turn it clockwise. the LED's will flash together, first once, then pause, then twice, then pause, then three times. When this happens turn the screwdriver counter clockwise. The ECU is now in mode 3 which reads out the fault codes on the LED's. It will cycle through all stored fault codes. Red LED = 10 Green = 1 some computers only have 1 red led but the principle is the same If the red led flashes 4 times and the green one flashes 5 times that means you have code 45. It will repeat this if this is the only fault. If there are more faults it will flash all the faults and repeat. The ECU will reset when you turn the ignition off. 11 - Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor 12 - Air Flow Meter 13 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 14 - Vehicle Speed Sensor 21 - Ignition Signal 22 - Fuel Pump 23 - Idle Switch 24 - Throttle Valve Switch 25 - Idle Speed Control Valve 26 - Boost Pressure Sensor 27 - 28 - Cooling Fan Circuit 29 - 30 - 31 - ECM 32 - EGR Function 33 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 34 - Knock Sensor 35 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 36 - EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer 37 - Knock Sensor 38 - Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2) 41 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 42 - Fuel Temperature Sensor 43 - Throttle Position Sensor 45 - Injector Leak 47 - Crankshaft Position Sensor 51 - Injector Circuit 53 - Oxygen Sensor 54 - A/T Control 55 - No Malfunction 63 - No. 6 Cylinder Misfire 64 - No. 5 Cylinder Misfire 65 - No. 4 Cylinder Misfire 66 - No. 3 Cylinder Misfire 67 - No. 2 Cylinder Misfire 68 - No. 1 Cylinder Misfire 71 - Random Misfire 72 - TWC Function right hand bank 76 - Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank 77 - Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit 82 - Crankshaft Position Sensor 84 - Automatic Transmission Diagnostic Communication Line 87 - Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit 91 - Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank 94 - TCC Solenoid Valve 95 - Crank Position Cog 98 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 101 - Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank 103 - Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit 105 - EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit 108 - Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit 111 - Inhibitor Switch 112 - Automatic Transmission Speed Sensor 113 - Automatic Transmission 1st Signal 114 - Automatic Transmission 2nd Signal 115 - Automatic Transmission 3rd Signal 116 - Automatic Transmission 4th Signal 118 - Automatic Transmission Shift Solenoid Valve A 121 - Automatic Transmission Shift Solenoid Valve B 123 - Automatic Transmission Overrun Clutch Solenoid Valve 124 - Automatic Transmission TOR Conv Solenoid Valve 125 - Automatic Transmission Line Pressure Solenoid 126 - Automatic Transmission Throttle Position Sensor 127 - Automatic Transmission Engine Speed Signal 128 - Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor

A few people have posted a thread on this but there a heaps of people that musnt have found it. This is the diagnostic guide for skyline owners (most of em anyway) For most people this guide should give you a good indication of what is going wrong according to your stock ecu i did the test on mine and it came back with an error code of 12 which is the afm i replaced it and it now runs like brand new. give it a go before you pay someone else to TRY and do it and save yourself some money. This particular one was posted by Skyline_Boy and i am not trying get praise for following up on his thread i am simply bringing it to everyones attention so here it is aswell, It can also be found in the diy section of the site. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35733 this includes small diagram for mode changing Hope this will tell you whats wrong with your car. ECCS has 5 modes : Mode 1 - Exhaust Gas Sensor monitor. When the engine is warm (closed loop) the green led turns on for lean, off for rich. It should alternate. When it is cold (open loop) it will be either on or off. Mode 2 - Mixture ratio feedback control monitor. During closed loop operation the red led should turn on and off simultaneously with the green led when the mixture is controlled within the specified values. During open loop the red led stays on or off. Mode 3 - Self Diagnosis. See below Mode 4 - Switches On/Off diagnosis. The inspection lamp monitors the idle switch portion of the throttle valve switch, the starter switch, vehicle speed sensor an other switches with an on/off condition. Mode 5 - Real Time diagnosis. Same as Mode 3, but it flashes the errors as they occur. To select the various modes : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35733 for picture of way to select modes With the ignition ON take a small screwdriver and turn it clockwise. the LED's will flash together, first once, then pause, then twice, then pause, then three times. When this happens turn the screwdriver counter clockwise. The ECU is now in mode 3 which reads out the fault codes on the LED's. It will cycle through all stored fault codes. Red LED = 10 Green = 1 some computers only have 1 red led but the principle is the same If the red led flashes 4 times and the green one flashes 5 times that means you have code 45. It will repeat this if this is the only fault. If there are more faults it will flash all the faults and repeat. The ECU will reset when you turn the ignition off. 11 - Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor 12 - Air Flow Meter 13 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 14 - Vehicle Speed Sensor 21 - Ignition Signal 22 - Fuel Pump 23 - Idle Switch 24 - Throttle Valve Switch 25 - Idle Speed Control Valve 26 - Boost Pressure Sensor 27 - 28 - Cooling Fan Circuit 29 - 30 - 31 - ECM 32 - EGR Function 33 - Heated Oxygen Sensor 34 - Knock Sensor 35 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor 36 - EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer 37 - Knock Sensor 38 - Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2) 41 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 42 - Fuel Temperature Sensor 43 - Throttle Position Sensor 45 - Injector Leak 47 - Crankshaft Position Sensor 51 - Injector Circuit 53 - Oxygen Sensor 54 - A/T Control 55 - No Malfunction 63 - No. 6 Cylinder Misfire 64 - No. 5 Cylinder Misfire 65 - No. 4 Cylinder Misfire 66 - No. 3 Cylinder Misfire 67 - No. 2 Cylinder Misfire 68 - No. 1 Cylinder Misfire 71 - Random Misfire 72 - TWC Function right hand bank 76 - Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank 77 - Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit 82 - Crankshaft Position Sensor 84 - Automatic Transmission Diagnostic Communication Line 87 - Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit 91 - Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank 94 - TCC Solenoid Valve 95 - Crank Position Cog 98 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 101 - Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank 103 - Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit 105 - EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit 108 - Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit 111 - Inhibitor Switch 112 - Automatic Transmission Speed Sensor 113 - Automatic Transmission 1st Signal 114 - Automatic Transmission 2nd Signal 115 - Automatic Transmission 3rd Signal 116 - Automatic Transmission 4th Signal 118 - Automatic Transmission Shift Solenoid Valve A 121 - Automatic Transmission Shift Solenoid Valve B 123 - Automatic Transmission Overrun Clutch Solenoid Valve 124 - Automatic Transmission TOR Conv Solenoid Valve 125 - Automatic Transmission Line Pressure Solenoid 126 - Automatic Transmission Throttle Position Sensor 127 - Automatic Transmission Engine Speed Signal 128 - Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor

get a powerfc man you wont regret the extra couple of hundred bucks plus with hand controller you can hot tune

I can now vouch for this stuff good SHiziTT cotton bud was black when finished, the element and sensor now has a gloss like finish like it should it also got rid of that chalky corrosion which is awesome. Thanks guys

mine is fully custom made using the old o2 sensor fittings you should just be able to weld a nut onto the dump pipe the right size and just screw it into that aswell.

is that a laptop hard drive caddy?

im at the top of nsw and will swap id even come to you mine is black very good condition series 1 but what colour location and condition? pm me

whats the best way to clean an airflow metre ? I have used non corrosive cleaning agents and i am still getting error code 12 from computer which is the airflow metre. The element is not damaged but still gets dirty from oil lubricated pod filter. What are the best products on the market ????

this thread might also shed som light on your problem as it has mine

about the series look at the build plate also quick checks are if your dash surround is a rough surface its series 2 if its smooth series 1 there are heaps of little other checks like abs for series 2 as for your questionon the throttle position sensor this may help On the TPS is two sets of wires, one is the idle contacts, the other is the variable resistor, The plug that plugs directly on to the TPS with 2 wires is the idle contacts, the other set with the wiring connector about 5cm's or so away from the TPS and with 3 wires is the variable resistor, can't remember wiring colors, in the lot of 3 wires you have to get the correct one, with the ignition on and everything connected get a multimeter and connect one lead to earth on the battery, the other lead you need to backprobe one of those 3 wires, you need to get a reading of around 0.5 volts, if not, loosen the TPS screws and rotate it to get exactly 0.5 volts with the throttle fully closed. Now, with that set the idle contacts are probably crap. You now need to connect the multimeter to the other set of two wires, unplug the connector on the TPS and put both leads onto the two terminals on the TPS, they should be closed, rotate the throttle slowly till the multimeter shows no contact, this should be JUST off idle, if not, well, the only way to fix it is to remove the TPS and dismantle it and bend the contacts inside to get it right as you can't rotate the TPS to fix it as you will muck up the other setting, It takes a while to get it right One thing to add, the plug that plugs directly on to the TPS may have three wires, have to check it out but, manuals may have two wires, auto's may have three wires, the two top pins are the idle contacts. also regap new plugs to .6mm otherwise on boost it will run like poo at 1.1mm which the NGKpfr6g-11 are set at thus the -11 at the end of model number hope i help

i did on my r33 (well i wasnt the one that actually did it )but it was done to my car any competant exhaust place should be able to do it

hehehe yeah dogs nuts

this is the link to diagnose hicas problem http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=22193 hope it helps you

when u say the standard guage goes up to 7+ if this is true that is around 14 psi the standard guage doesnt read in psi,if it is hitting 7+ your running a little too much boost and probably hitting boost or feul limit does it have a boost controller?

if the car has been in a crash from the rear it could have put it out,the hicas angle sensor more than likely is the problem. there are tests on this site for diagnostics check them out before going crazy and just replacing stuff though hope to help..

mine does exactly the same thing as well as stalling and very rocky idle please pm me the result from tuners with solution

when you replaced the spark plugs what was the gap? try smaller gap most people seem to say around the .6mm to .750mm for best results that may be a help to you if you are runing bigger boost

$150 for wing???? + delivery or pickup? pm me

what colour????? is it the indicators that are white or the bar?

pm me on price of these please 1: the dash surround around clock hazard switch that goes down around the stereo. without swithes. 2: both sunvisors 3: standard steering wheel also pmd you

the car would not have had much driving since delivered to aus and even then you wouldnt know how long it was just sitting in japan. the element in the afm might be dirty could be anything but if he hasnt bought it tell him to just look for another, its not worth the trouble to buy a new used car and then have to fix it.......