Slide

The clean up of glass around a 5sqm radius was brutal. Still find glass in the lawn after mowing months later lol.

Hey Ben Have been pretty busy lately, will give you a call this week to come up and have a look. Aaron

calledyoubackfromaprivatenumberandnoanswerhaha email me mate or call now. aaron at slidingperformance dot com Im a broker now first and foremost, Brent is doing most of the Sp work and deliveries.

Spraying the turbo with WD40 will do nothing to help the situation. Here is a potential cause. Having a series 2 your turbo has a bakerlight compressor wheel, a very hard plastic and this could be scuffing on the housing making a squeek or high pitch squeel. It happens because the shaft wears out and usually there is forward/backward movement in the shaft causing it to push forward on the housing or backward on the backing plate. It will eventually explode and throw bits of plastic all through your intake soon if the noise is in fact coming from the turbo. Or you could have a bird in there that is opposed to greater boost pressures. Kind of like a Nissan Nazi Budgie.

The line runs through the radiator to heat up the transmission oil to avoid damage. The majority of turbo auto's are equipped with an oil cooler. It is not absolutely necessary and you will be hard pressed to find an aftermarket radiator that caters for the auto setup. Just don't go too hard on the gearbox for a few minutes of normal driving until temps are up. The alternative is to remove the lower tank, have someone weld in a line and weld the tank back on or use the standard or have the standard one modified for larger capacity, as it is the tanks are capable of having a larger core.

A quote from Fight Club comes to mind though completely the wrong direction for the topic and path taken: "Look, the people you are after are the people you depend on. We cook your meals, we haul your trash, we connect your calls, we drive your ambulances. We guard you while you sleep. Do not... f**k with us."

Needs more boost. And spray gleN 2O should be fine. Kills 99.9% of the germs as well.

From the news of them being 7.8mm lift looks like you will be hunting for a refund from the seller Goodluck.

Its also a very common issue when having installed an atmospheric blow off valve when using a standard computer.

haha We have the Greddy Emanage Ultimate with universal harness and software for tuning and monitoring in stock and its by far the most popular affordable solution that is very comparable to the Power FC as far as tuning capabilities go out there. It also has the added benefit off having the software included unlike others for much less. They can be found here in our Trust thread and most generally get away with having the kit installed and tuned for less than units like the Vipec/Link/Autonic units etc by them selves. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr...op-t188592.html And as the unit doesn't replace your standard computers tuning instructions like the remaps listed above in the second post you can simply remove it when you want to sell without having to buy a different computer to replace the stand alone as well as anyone/tuner being able to tune them like the above mentioned. There are also guides on the forums for self tuning the Emanage kit if you are technically minded. Many other benefits in this unit can be seen on the forums

If the actuator arm is still loose, take off the actuator and bend the arm so that it pushes the gate closed harder. The actuator length and turbo length is different between the RB25 and RB20 turbo's from the mounting points which is giving you the problem. Simply put it in a vice or if you can hold it steady so that the diaphragm is not damaged when you bend the arm. It will fix it, it wont damage anything done carefully, and it will also give you better boost response. The best solution though is a HKS adjustable actuator, you will not find a better solution even if you are running an EBC. Have done it hundreds of times on as many turbo's and cars.

Aston Martin DBR9 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faUjlEtnQxs...feature=related

We have another coming in shortly. The previous did not have an engine number only RRR. There is generally no engine number now with the new GT500 blocks much like the N1 blocks only the RRR stamp to indicate the Nismo block. The engine number is to be obtained by your state transport department for registration. Some, like N1 block owners put their old RB26 engine number on and destroy the old block. I would recommend the department of transport option though.

Any further progress?

Please PM your phone number

Please PM your phone number

I still need a better reason to fit a safety harness to the dog. I love the look, though it is still a Stagea wearing a pettie coat unlike Autech versions previously.

Could you please send through the vin/chassis number. What was the reason for seem welding, front end clip?

It may very well be coming from the breather at the head caused by blow by. Check the down pipe that runs into the turbo intake for oil or setup a temporary catch can just to see if it is the cause if you have not looked at this.

Coming right up Sir Boost Alot

Everyone knows that big cams get the chicks Steve-o I didn't know you liked doing the bottom end first still, i thought therapy fixed that? ... Zing Throw away the little ones and put in the 280's. I want to get rid of them I don't know why people are so afraid of spending the money on a big head job :s Selling 2 kidneys is not advised. Would be better to throw the money at developing a new block.

The exhaust housing has a fire plate underneath the exhaust housing, rotating this providing you don't chip the ceramic turbine wheel will give no problems. The compressor housing has a metal gasket which has a sealer paste holding it in, spinning this can sometimes push the dried paste into the line of the compressor wheel. Not so common. Where you would go wrong though is if when you spin the housings the cartridge is not North/South with the oil intake above and oil drain below you may run into problems as the junk in the oil stays in parts of the cartridge and cannot be gotten rid of and is constantly lubricating the bearings. Other then that, they are 20 years old, they have done their job and are and will all eventually die. All contact style bearings especially when combined with a ceramic turbine will fail after this amount of time and in many case much sooner. If your oil pressure is poor to the turbo and its not lubricated properly you will fry the seals and they will wear down without the oil buffer. Take some pictures of the turbo that failed and it could show the problem.

Then i can use $15k of stock to do a rebuild when i spin a bearing.....HA... Zing!!!

PM replied

f**king appendix had to come out so have been in hospital for over a week due to previous operations in the same spot making recovery more difficult so am in and out of hospital still. Will get up to the factory as soon as i can. Regarding the GT40, i love the car, it is undeniably one of my favourite cars made of all time. It is though always going to stand out as a car that is a copy of a very expensive car. The 540 is appealing to me as its a full time convertible and the engine doesn't require a Porsche or similar gearbox, cooling lines run, cable/hydrolic linkages from the pedal box, gear stick etc, and a number of parts under car that unless you make yourself will cost as much as a new Honda Jazz. Its all relative to cost and at the end of the day it will still be a kit car that looks like a million dollar super car. The 540 i have much more freedom to modify it the way i see fit and one of the things i would love to create is a bolt on hard top for it that doesn't look woeful like the cobra ones which stick out like dogs balls. What is also more appealing to me is that the interior of the car what you are looking at is something aesthetically pleasing in a road going cruiser using the Ford interior. I'm on 300mg of morphine a day, race seats are not as appealing to me as they used to be. The GT40 typically uses thin lined bucket seats. As you have sad the plan would be to get everything in it as bare as possible and get it on the road. It just looks a lot easier with the 540 with all of the easy bolt on items from the donor car. I would rather have a car up and running and then engineer things for it in my own time and be able to enjoy driving it sooner rather than later then having something sit in the same place for 15 years and get sick of the money pit, i already have enough of those and want to start enjoying things then tie up all of my time on a never ending project. Will get more details as soon as i can move and not eating plastic foods.