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rockabilly

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Everything posted by rockabilly

  1. hi mate,no hang the engine off the crane so it slopes slightly rearwards. then lower in and guide the front shaft of the gearbox into the clutch then lower it in. you need to lower the gearbox rear so its at the same angle as the engine. then lower the engine in so it lines up.as you lower push the engine onto the gearbox keeping it all lined up. no i am not a mechanic, but yes i did build mine myself.. bernie
  2. hi mate took me 4 hours from start to finish. had to drop the anti roll bar and power steering cooler, but that was because i have a trust sump extension. i lined the gearbox input shaft up with the clutch then with a jack dropped the gearbox mount down and slid the engine on,quite easy really.
  3. specs, spool rods, cp flat top pistons, around 8.1 . crank polished and balanced,oil restrictor fitted.one oil gallery blocked off, trust sump, n1 oil pump, oilreturn rear of head back to sump.etc http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc220/rockabillyrb30/
  4. hi guys dropped the motor in yesterday complete. shouldn,t be long now
  5. cheers guys.r31 nismoid, thanks , i looked at them too, i will be hoping to run 1.7-1.8 bar though and hope to get somewhere in the region of 400-450 rwkw,s thats why i asked. if not i may sell the blower and go for something bigger to4z etc.. would hope the gt35 would achieve this and keep my spool lower as i use the car for trackdays..i know some of the evo boys here run them at 2.4 bar which is nearly 450rwk,s on a 2.2 4g63 motor..
  6. as above guys. what could i expect when i fire my rb26/30 with stage 1 jun cams and a gt35r with a 1.06 rear?. anyone..bernie uk.. getting close now...
  7. here is where mine are if it helps..
  8. nearly there guys, put the trust sump on filled with oil and it leaks from a weld so its of at the moment being cleaned and rewelded, should be back mon tues next week. then in she goes.
  9. correct..............and thats what i did......
  10. yep proengines all the way boys, no probs with mine..
  11. cheers guys.only my second rb build at home.. spec wise.. rb30 block, bored for cp forgies,spool rods, acid dipped, new welsh plugs crank polished and balanced with rb26 front pulley fitted acl bearings, arp main/rod & head studs n1 oil/water pumps, trust big sump conversion rb26 head, jun 264/in 272/ex with 9.7mm lift. tomei pulleys. twin tomei intank pumps, feedind either end of the fuel rail (home made again). hks fuel reg and 10 row fuel cooler. denso 720cc inj. exedy triple plate clutch. uk,s first extreme turbo manifold kit for an rb26/30,with gt35r and 1,06 rear. tial 44mm waste. 4" dump pipe ( home made ) with screamer plumbed back into dump. and i hope to get 650bhp @ the fly and some serious torque... bernie.uk
  12. enjoy guys. http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc220/rockabillyrb30/ bernie
  13. hi all. after some help please. just building my rb30 ozzie lump up..plastigauged it all.mains & big ends .50 so all is well. trouble is the centre main was tight to press in the block and cradle and when i put the crank in the cradle on the bench there is endfloat, when i put the crank in the block without the girdle there is endfloat. all good so far when i tighten the girdle with the crank in place the endfloat dissappears to zero. any ideas?. shells are acl for an rb30e engine, cant remember from last rebuild the centre main being soo tight to push in the block and girdle?. bernie uk p.s what acl part number should i have on my box for rb30 mains. also are there different width shells. i know endfloat gap is crutial what would you recommend clearance wise for endfloat.thanks rob.. p.p.s engine is still in bits so can do what needs to be done.
  14. yes mate really, just fiddly, went in complete turbo the lot, just left engine mounting brackets off then fitted then in once the engine was low enough..
  15. web link for rebuild piccy,s http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc220/rockabillyrb30/
  16. hi mate,to drop pressure in an oil pump you need either a weaker relief spring or the same tension spring but shorter in length.. the sump must be removed then you can see the oil pump relief nut, undo that and a spring and plunger fall out. then its a new spring and away you go.
  17. nobody?. come on guys there must be guys in oz running similar spec...
  18. cheers saliya.. will think on that. warpspeed, its from the air filter to the turbo, when running high boost and long silicone legs on the bend i have seen then collapse under suction. i suppose the turbo is trying to pull so much air through the filter the hose just gives in?.
  19. hi guys as you know i am rebuilding my first rb26/30. i have all the forged bits, arp bits etc and using an extreme turbo manifold and a gt35r 1.06 with a shrouded front, jun cams 264/272 9.7mm lift. massive fuel set up and 720 injectors,need some idea of what i may be getting from this layout. would also like some advice on max boost i should run..say 1.7 bar tops?.and help is welcomed.bernie uk. done several searches and seem to find that 400rwkw,s is the limit of this turbo. is that fair to say, will i need to go to4z soon?. would like 550-600lbs torque really.
  20. cheers guys, warpspeed good idea only trouble is sometimes on the truck ones they collapse under heavy suction...
  21. as above guys, do you guys have anywhere in oz where i can buy a bend. its for my air filter to turbo.. cheers bernie uk needsa to be 4" diameter and have about 6" legs.
  22. quick piccy guys to update you all, fitted the rb30 in today, no crank rods etc just want to make sure i could get the lump in, as my garage roof is low and i have a trust sump extension fitted. anyway here,s the latast piccy..complete with leigh,s manifold.
  23. superb,cheers mate.
  24. cheers michael. would like 650bhp and maybe 550 lbs torque, should be good for the trackdays..
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