MBar93

It's definitely overfueling, it smells so rich, even more so than normal since it runs pretty rich normally. No smoke at all however I've changed spark plugs fairly recently. I'll check the fuel filter shortly. Not quite sure how I would go about checking the timing

Hey all My car has been hesitating while accelerating, to the point where it will choke severely under load. It is also struggling to maintain idle, which fluctuates and will drop to about 500 and the engine will nearly stop running. Somebody suggested my tps may be the problem so I tested the tps with a multimeter. I've read that with the throttle closed, it should read about 0.4-0.5v, and at WOT it should read around 4.5v At closed throttle I'm getting a reading of 0.36, and at WOT I'm getting 4.21. Just needing some interpretation, is this sufficiently low enough to assume the tps is the fault? Some extra info that might be helpful: I noticed a few times last week after starting up it would idle unusually high (around 1800-2000rpm) on cold startups. Also while trying to accelerate the engine makes a whining sound before it chokes and goes nowhere. I've also noticed that for a while the idle would fluctuate a very tiny amount, barely noticeable unless you watch the needle very closely.

The ecu is r33 gtst It's running a stock rb25 airflow meter. I'll try blocking off the bov again

Just another bit of info: an observation I made today was the flat spot starts at just after 4000rpm and continues until redline

It doesn't seem to be missing at all. No coughing or spluttering. Boost gauge shows about 13psi (I turned the boost down a little to try avoid boost cut). BOV is plumbed back

Hey everyone Recently I've been having troubles with my 33. I bought it last year, and at the time it was running 14psi, with a high-flowed stock turbo, and nistune-chipped ecu (not a great tune, runs rather rich). Had no problems when I bought it. Other mods the car came with were splitfire coilpacks, upgraded fuel pump, turbosmart bleed valve, FMIC. A couple of months ago I added a Greddy type s bov (car was bought without bov), which I had a few issues with setting up, because I tee'd it to the same vacuum line as the boost gauge, and it leaked boost. I turned the boost down for a while until I got around to fixing it (this car is also my daily driver so it took a while), but now I've fixed that up and both now have their own source of vacuum. I then turned the boost back up to 14psi. Lately, when at WOT I've been hitting boost cut when it spools close to 14psi in 3rd and 4th gear, and also there seems to be a massive flat spot which is very noticeable through 2nd gear, which wasn't there before and seems to be getting progressively worse. I've already changed the spark plugs, as I thought maybe the rich-running engine might have fouled them and caused the engine to run excessively rich, although the old spark plugs were not fouled when I took them out and the new ones haven't made any difference. Any ideas of what else could be causing this?

Just been trying to bleed more, there is more pressure in the pedal now but still not enough and I've finished the whole bottle of fluid... Will try this

I've bled both. Only started to get a little bit of pressure after bleeding the master cylinder. I'll try the outlet pipe There were no more bubbles coming out, just liquid...

I've swapped in the new master cylinder, and tried to bleed the system. There is a little pressure back in the clutch pedal, but I can't seem to get any more back. Is it just a case of there still being air in the system, and more bleeding required?

So I'm waiting for a new master cylinder to arrive, meanwhile I took the old one out, and with the resevoir still full I pumped it by hand and it made a gurgling noise and very little fluid came out at all. I take it this is a definite sign the master cylinder is the problem?

How would I have destroyed the pressure plate? And how would I be able to tell if that is the problem? I'm hoping it's just the master cylinder, I'll get a new one and hope for the best

Pretty sure there's no leaks, we checked all the lines, and there's no fluid anywhere it shoudn't be

Nope, no pressure even when I pump it

Okay so I changed the slave cylinder and bled the system... still no pressure in the clutch pedal. Any other suggestions?

EDIT: I was wrong, it's actually full I apologise for sounding pretty dumb, I've never had issues with clutches or hydraulic lines and cylinders with previous cars so I know next to nothing about that stuff haha

Hi everyone I recently bought an r33 skyline gtst, been loving it up until now. I was driving and suddenly I tried to change gears and the pedal stuck to the floor, and the clutch wouldn't disengage and I had to drive home without using the clutch pedal, resulting in a lot of grinding gears and struggling to get moving at traffic lights. I was thinking it might be something to do with the slave cylinder... anybody have any info? Has anybody else had this problem?