ifixedit

I agree this was a weird situation. It made me pull hair out! The battery shows 12.4v-12.8v after settled after each use. Light made it dim to 12.1 not the best.. But cannot believe the difference in starter speed with replacement battery!! I'm happy the issue is gone. And it wasn't a wiring nightmare to sort through. Haha

Replaced the battery. Issue gone!!

I have tested with friends water sensor, it's not the problem. I got a feeling my battery is shit! My battery goes a bit flat after a few days of not driving.. not dead flat but a very slow turn over. I was thinking I have some sort of parasitic load. I still need to test this. None the less. If I charge the battery for a few hours. The car starts a little bit easier when hot. But not like when it's cold! (Instant start basically) Is a low crank voltage a high possibility that might be a problem to start a skyline? If it is the battery, a bad cell might drop too much volts at higher heat

Well.. Yeah! Haha When you read and say infinite. Is it In-fin-a-te Or In-fa-nit

It's odd when disconnect the sensor, that the a/C fan turns on.. It appears when disconnecting the sensor tells ecu engine is hot! And runs additional a/C fan. Which is odd. Considering lower resistances mean higher temps. And open circuit would be lowest resistance! Haha None the less this area is an area I want to investigate. The other thing is I might take off all the piping. (Intercooler pipes) it might be a loose , broken tube somewhere with a slight vac leak. As I said the time right after rebuild. Assembling everything. The car ran absolutely beautiful.. no issues like this. Wasn't until I dismantled it again (pipes , crank pulley and timing belt) this started happening. I will take a good look to try and figure it out. I will look at the main block grounding wire to. I also want to check the ignition wiring ground. (Back of engine I think there is a cable)

There is something else I find slightly different. Every time I race the revs. It like they lock to say 1000-1100 rpm for a split second then drop to idol. I don't specifically remember it doing that before. I remember it doing it slightly more subtle

Where do I get a consult commander thinggy? Do ecus on skylines have led flashes like old Sr ecus Might find a fault that way?

Hi Since the rebuild of the engine, Was running fine. Until I fixed a oil leak on a brand new cam seal! My luck! Anyways car not exhibits a hot engine starting gremlin.. turns over and hesitate to start.. Unplugging the water temp sensor makes it start instantly. I checked voltages at ECU and ohms on sensor. It's fine.. 0.3kohm 1.2 /v hot 2.5k cold 3.5v So I am hesitant to think a bum sensor. But interesting the unplug of that starts engine fine. The engine didn't exhibit this behaviour before stripping the front on engine to get to camshaft seal. Dunno what else to look for.. Re. Shaun

NICE! thats what I will do thanks bud

Hi All, I found the source of the leak.. turned out to be the bloody intake side Camshaft seal. when I installed the seal I did NOT place any gasket glue on the outer surface of the seal. Just a smear of oil for easy insertion. Is it common practice to use gasket glue? or they go in clean? regards Shaun

Not babied. Just don't want to full rpm boost until at least 100km. First 20km were with semi syn. Some cheapish cheif oil to flush and clean. Now running the good stuff she leaks..

Yeah I know.. I will keep everyone updated.. When I dismantle it again I'll show some new pics.. hopefully we can get this solved

Hi. I hope to get some advice on my rebuilt neo oil pressure and a small oil leak.. After a catastrophic end to my engine months ago where timing belt idler came loose and fell off the head and some pistons got minced. Anyways new head and rebuilt engine later.. First I want to ask if my oil pressure seems right. (New main bearings!!) Idle cold is 4.0Bar, idle hot is 3.5Bar, 4000Rpm goes up to maybe 4.5Bar. I have not hit high revs yet.. won't for a while! I'm using Repco 10w40 fully synthetic oil Dash gauge being used! Not a proper gauge! So it won't be fully accurate! Onto my little issue, I am having a small oil leak from front of engine and cannot identify where it's coming from. It seems to pool to the right (passenger side) of the oilpump I've once already tried to fix this by taking the radi out and the main pulley off to inspect behind timing belt cover.. tightening oilpump a little more. Also adding some more gasket glue to the sump/oilpump thinking the leak was that.. I honestly say that the timing belt is dry, the crankshaft timing belt gear and under it is dry (main crank seal is not leaking.., if it was leaking I think the inside the timing belt covers would be soaked?) I saw a bit of oil from the timing belt idler pulley. The metal shaft of the pulley which bolts to the engine.. I saw a bit of oil under it, where it touches the block.. I don't know if it is flowing from there or somehow got some residual oil from the build! You know!! Oiling the bolts, and seals.. maybe it is not leaking there! (Won't know until I take off the covers again) Has anyone ever had oil leaking from the bolt that holds the timing belt idler pulley? Other then that I am thinking the oilpump/sump join is not sealed 100% or something.. But seeing oil as high as the idler pulley makes me think elsewhere. It could be blowing around via the radiator fan.. / timing belt.. The cams are not leaking I'm 99% sure as it's bone dry that high!! My dad keeps talking about blowby pressure being too high.. maybe making the oil seap. Should I give it a week or two of driving and. See if this leak stops? Sadly the photos were taken 2 days ago when I had the bits removed.. it's now all complete and my test drive last night.. when I returned home.. had leak still.. Thanks., The image here shows the corner where it drops oil. (Passenger side corner front of sump) This photo shows the crank gear is dry? But the outside of the timing belt cover (right of pump is wet) This photo shows the water pump is dry.. (it is dirty. Didn't do such a good job cleaning inside the gap there!) so I am sure no oil is leaking from camshafts..

Yeah I know but a gasket is what I want to put on

Hi I am wanting to use a gasket for the oil pan rather then gasket glue/goo On eBay I am seeing gaskets for pan on R33 (RB20?) Very confused. Does anyone know if most RB engines use similar or same oil pan? As to why I am seeing many gaskets includes R33 and R34 etc.

Do you know of a shop in Melbourne I would be able to take it to?

Hi thanks for reply Two damaged cylinders, the one pictured is the worse off one. Block is ok tho haha Lucky damage was when idle

Hi Is the head the same? I have found a non turbo head. Can it be converted to turbo? I was told just change camshafts? Backstory, the turbo Neo head on my engine is done! Need to replace it

Hi. I need a R34 GTT RB25DET Neo Head If you have one to sell and in Melbourne Offer me a price. I would like the head to have had no problems in the past. Valve guides should be in good condition If possible valve seals done.

good to know.. thanks guys..

Hi, Can anyone advise where I can get a cheap rb25det neo for 2k - 2.5k max? I have called around but alot are asking closer to 3-3.5k I dont want to spend that much!! as plans are to sell the car after this. and dont want to burn funds. regards Shaun

It's all good. I jigged a little but nothing too crazy.. upon releasing the pin they finally split. Clutch and flywheel are fine. Took then off and gave a clean the gearbox would have had a little bit of jiggling but I am sure it's fine thanks for not believing in me! Haha

I don't want to apply too much force.. Can I ask about the thrust bearing? Inside the bell housing. I remember this was a key point to removing a gearbox

Thanks GTSboy I will have a fiddle tomorrow.. thanks for the idea..

Hey all. Dunno if I mentioned that I put a camera down the pistons haha all stuffed inside valves stuck pistons. One piston has a hole in it.. Anyways I spend an hour trying to seperate the engine and gearbox.. Got the engine crane attached. Brought a beautiful chain for lifting too With some gentle and some not so gentle shaking of the two.. Seems it came apart maybe 8-10mm only. Seem to be having trouble getting them fully apart It's a manual gearbox for the rb25det neo. I've removed all bolts.. seems something inside (clutch area) is holding it from coming out. Is there something I've forgotten or do I keep trying to seperate the two.