ifixedit

Thanks for comments slap. Hey the bolt can be threaded into the crank a few turns? It's got the guide in the centre of the bolt? It's funny how you see people using those triangle g hook type on YouTube..

I got the bolt off combo of impact ratchet and a long pipe on a ratchet. I use a 10mm bolt in the crank pulley and wedged with a breaker bar. The bolt was on there good and tight! Took a fair bit of force bit of CRC and patience she finally gave way. I will eventually get the crank pulley off and attempt to get engine and cams into position for rebelting and see if it will turn over.. Use a probe camera to try and inspect the piston tops for gouging. I'll report here hopefully later this week..

Yes. The dots should align with cam gears when the crank position at TDC. I was making the point the cams are in alignment with themselves maybe 1-2 teeth out.. But still most importantly the crank is out of alignment in relation to the cams. I will stick a camera probe into the sparkplug holes and inspect today.. Hope to have head off by weekend.. slow goings...

based on the little dot on cam gear and marker.. The intake and exhaust would be no more then few teeth out of allignment.. 3-5 teeth out maybe.. and that might be since I released the belt.. and seen it slip. The main concern in the crank position in relation to the cams.. considering the idler pulley that's no longer mounted would have allowed the crank and cams to misalignment.. I'm going to hazard a guess best chances are... The loose timing belt pulley was jamming the whole thing from turning.. I forced it by forcing the starter motor and heard a terrible grind and stopped instantly. The grind might have been the pulley. I'll slowly take her apart..

About a 2 years ago Have done maybe 15k since

Okay things don't look so sweet.. on first impressions.. Looks like the stalled engine on approach to traffic lights was basically the CAS saying wooooooo something's up! Looks like the idler pulley for cambelt loose and the bad noise might have been that moving around inside.. Bad bad bad the fact camshafts are not in sync.. Bad bad bad that I tried to keep turning the engine over via starter.. Can anyone weigh in with respect to a starter motor having enough power to bend valves? I remember even on the half turn the engine was not firing to have a combustion cycle.. so interesting to see if the starter motor would just slightly gouge the pistons.. Time will tell when I go deeper.. Images here in Imgur gallery https://imgur.com/a/yNRWr3V Last thing..... Question... Photo where the balancer pulley is.. since the engine is freely rotating half to 3 quarters of a cycle... Is the 10mm screw being held by a ratchet bar a typical way to keep the engine crank still while ratcheting off the bolt? I have ensured there is at least another 30-45 degrees of rotation left from where it's being held.. Or am I suppose to use a longer 10mm bolt and screw it in all the way and let it catch on the engine?? I forgot how the boys use to do this.. I kind of remember using my method haha

Nursing a hang over.. will do some tomorrow hehehe let you know what's happening..

Thanks NEO Sadly I actually partially owned a garage in Thailand modding RBs and actually watch a fair bit.. never did a rebuild but will just have a play.. cannot make it worse than it is haha Maybe I can haha.. I might get the complex stuff like headwork if needed to someone So anyone is West Melbourne good at working heads And if need honing done any good places reasonable price?

Nice.. gonna borrow friends engine hoist and stand and take a good look.. Might take off front cover first.. look at the timing belt.. Question... Is it possible to remove engine from engine bay without the a.c. compressor?? Don't wanna f**k with the AC.. it works so well

CAS drive Curious what ya mean

Hey all R34 GTT... Drove to Vic market this morning.. Driving home.. on deceleration toward traffic lights.. going neutral and engine stalls.. Try turn over click click.. click click.. Interesting.. I have seen very flat battery and bad alternators stall cars... Anyways brother comes to try and charge me.. try turn over.. still click click.. Smack starter a little and get it to turn over.. Serious metal on metal... Noise.. No oil loss, checked for wet oil in top end by fingering my engine... It has lube for sure.. I dunno.. maybe a rod and snapped or the timing belt... Can anyone try help me to diagnose the noise? I cannot tell yet without opening anything

beautiful, Ordered an OEM gasket thanks to a ebay referal here I got some new tube of copper stuff hehe permatex Ill do it one weekend... and will ensure to tighten properly... any comments of how best to tighten those bolts that are in an asshole corner.. the bottom ones! leverage and angle is odd to get a good grip

I would rather not spend $50 for a OEM gasket.. Would this Permaseal branded Gasket be as good? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/301743793066?euid=d697b74afe044547a29048aa181c685f&bu=43180229173&cp=1&sojTags=bu=bu ($27)

Thanks for the reply. I will do just that.

I recently replaced my turbo gasket with a thick type, maybe thats my issue but Its leaking again and I spotted the area the exhaust gasses are leaking from it's 100% the gasket again I remember having troubles with my turbo gasket on an old s13 while living in thailand in the end we used some type of thick gasket maker stuff on both sides of the gasket and worked like a charm. even 1 bolt came loose and didn't effect the gasket.. my current skyline is having problems and think its simply just a shitty gasket. I will buy another gasket and try again. (turbo->manifold) I am going to buy the thin stainless type this time I am seeing RTV COPPER gasket maker.. Im sure that was not it.. the stuff I used I am sure was basically creamy ceramic or something and when dry it was crumbly i.e. ceramic anyone know what I am talking about? or would you recommend the copper.. The copper is good for around 350 Degree C, im sure ceramic would be better!

Hi, I am changing the timitng belt, and I have put everything back.. can anyone tell the spring for the tensioner pulley for the timing belt.. does the spring lock into anything? or just sits there floating it appears the spring end it ligning up to the top of the engine block.. near water pump.. or is there a special place for it to go?

hahaha sorry guys Im blind...... drunk!

you gotta hear this song!!!! From Omnium Gatherum Melodic Death Metal Artists get it cranking on a system with a beefy subbie!, enjoy it.. sorry if I have broken the rules to post a song! Delete ME, Kill ME or beat me up I dont care... JUST DONT STEAL MY SKYLINE 02. Skyline.mp3

Good to know Thanks fellas.. Is there any other low cost bits I should do while doing timing belt? Such as thermostat?

Thanks for the replies.. I have found another kit. Anyone think this seller is ok? http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=220670174377&alt=web It says all Nissan genuine parts I see he has an optional greedy part.. Not included...

Hi, I'm gonna replace timing belt soon, was told to do water pump at same time.. For a skyline r34gtt rb25det I found on ebay a set costs around 230 bucks for the lot.. Timing belt Tensioners Water pump Will this be ok for a stock daily driver car? Here is a link.. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=251865054660&alt=web If this is not recommended can someone advise a better set on ebay.. Thankyou guys Edit: the link provided says the pump is not compatible with my car but another listing is.. But in general these are not fake crap are they?

I removed the Studs, allowed minimal turbo movement.. slipped the new gasket in place, cable tied the turbo to strut brace, trolly jacked the exhaust pipe to lift turbo.. put the studs back in, waiting to get some Bolts with locking washers.. all will be goodie!!

good advice.. thankyou. exhaust has been lifted to near invisible installation.. never hits the ground anymore. a soft flexipipe.. I am unsure if it has or not.. I know what your talking about just have not looked under the car will do tho. during Road Worthy they were being asses about the custom Japanese install that came with my import. and tried all the tricks.. in the end I got it lifted and the pipe raised.. they did a good job.. Sadly I just brought a turbo gasket replacement. but if the dump comes off I might wanna order a gasket for that too! I have to expect things like this, its an old car.. getting onto 15+ years now.. it's a imported car also and as problems arise I will fix them myself as long as it's not too major.. but in the future should I be looking for help doing a complete rebuild.. is there anyone trustworthy.. or even something I'd love to do myself with guidance.. It's something I would enjoy doing and would pay for time and great deal of respect for a expert on rb's to do with me. the plan is to buy a rundown rb25det neo clone to whats in my car and rebuild that ready for when this one craps out.. this motor has 150k on the clock and it's higher then I wished for.

HI, guys.. I am having a exhaust leak and investigated it a bit more and have some questions about removal of the turbo and it's difficulty. So I need to replace the gasket from exhaust manifold to the turbo (the T3/T4 gasket I think its called). sadly the bolts were loose and destroyed a corner of the gasket as to why it's leaking exhaust.. I could simply buy a new bolt and tighten everything and hope for the best but would like to do the job properly.. I have already removed the turbo heat shield, exhaust head shield, removed the intercooler pipes, and intake pipe so exhaust side is open and clean to work with. I did this thinking the exhaust leak was coming from the exhaust manifold.. but mistakenly I noticed 1 bolt missing off turbo and another 2 are loose enough to remove bolts with my fingers.. the 3rd bolt might be loose have not really cared at this stage seeming the others were loose. I have ordered a new gasket and will wait for it to arrive before continuing this job. so I want to know while replacing the gasket can the oil/water feeds and exhaust connection stay attached to the turbo? i mean, is there enough clearance to pull the turbo away from the headder bolts and slip in a new gasket without damaging the feed pipes and exhaust? Or is best absolute practice to remove everything while doing a job like this? thankyou. S.

$250 with a broken screen. I remember only paying like $400 new for full kit OMG!!