Velict

BNR34 / BNR32 Fan Compatibility I have a greddy radiator. The OEM R32 gtr fan hits the shroud and is starting to wear a hole. Going to replace the shroud. Also want to replace the clutch fan. Will the r34 fan fit on the r32 without interfering with the shroud?

So, my A/C Condenser fan is shot. Was wondering what other options there are for a nice, high quality upgrade to that electric fan that wouldn't need much of any modification. The stock one is about 500 bucks new, and that's ridiculous. Anyone have advice? Thanks.

After going to page literally, 50, searching on google. I found it. Good luck everyone! Brand new, too. http://www.importdriver.com.au/store/item.inetstore?id=156

Hello everyone. I apologize for maybe a topic that has been beaten to death, but it has been bugging me quite a bit recently. Is there, and could it ever be found, a brand new english full repair manual for the r32 gtr? I currently have the copy, as does probably everyone, of the PDF that circulates around this forum. What do you guys know?

Video not here on this forum. Youtube link up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=384Cnyb5M4A&feature=youtu.be

I'll give you guys the quick run down. But actually figuring it out is up to your own abilities. I assume if you own a gtr, you should know how to do some sort of maintenance, disassembly, or repair. List of items: Solder Station 3mm 5000 - 20,000 mCD LED at 30 degree - 45 degree focus beam (Green, orange, red, white, cool white) Know your LED specs! Forward Voltage, Forward Current, Supply Voltage Any of these LEDS are good: http://www.mouser.com/.../Standard-LEDs.../_/N-b1bc8... Next is your resistor. Below is a resistor calculator https://www.digikey.com/.../conversion-calculator-led... For instance, I used a 3.2v LED, 20mA, and we know that cars use 12v. So I needed a ~440 Ohms resistor .176 watt. It's safe to go with 500mW. The best resistors are metal film. They reduce noise (LED Flicker), better tolerances for voltage spikes, and higher heat handling. These are the resistors I used. REMEMBER TO USE YOUR RESISTOR CALCULATOR!! Good choices here (470 ohm 500mW):http://www.mouser.com/ProductD.../Vishay/CMF55470R00FKR6/... On each specific switch, as shown in the video here on this forum, there are rubber 'bulb condoms' that sit inside the switch. They're ass, take em, shit on them, throw them away. Remove the switches from your facia after you've taken it out. You'll have to unscrew them. Makes it easier, and there is a reason for this. Hide your empty facia somewhere. You won't need it for now. Plug your removed switches into your harnesses. Turn on your running lights. Get your red or some colored paint pen. Take a spare LED that's been wired with your resistor, and touch negative or positive to your contacts and do some guess work on the polarity. Don't short your LED out unsure emoticon Once you've found the correct polarity direct, mark your hot wire with your pen After you got the marks, I mean it's basic soldering. Red to Pos terminal, Black to negative terminal. It'll take some fenaggling to get the LED into the hole, but you'll just have to be patient. Use some epoxy or RTV to glue the led in place. This is to hold the LED in the correct position, or it'll bounce all over the place because it ain't got a condom. For the window switch. It's just clipped into the door panel. Pry it out gently. It's difficult to find the location of the clips so you don't break them. Took me a bit. There will be a yellow cover on the back of the main window switches. Take mini screw drivers and pry off the clips. Once you get it, you'll see a circuit board with a T3 socket. I decided to just solder in an led (after testing my polarity using the same method above). Take down with epoxy and good to go. Before your decide to snap everything back together and start driving, test out your switches to make sure they even work. Also, you can test the illumination. If you're feeling froggy, this is the perfect time to completely disassemble your switches and clean / lubricate them. I got rid of some electrical gremlins when I did this. I also flowed solder on the circuit board.

I'll give you guys the quick run down. But actually figuring it out is up to your own abilities. I assume if you own a gtr, you should know how to do some sort of maintenance, disassembly, or repair. List of items: Solder Station 3mm 5000 - 20,000 mCD LED at 30 degree - 45 degree focus beam (Green, orange, red, white, cool white) Know your LED specs! Forward Voltage, Forward Current, Supply Voltage Any of these LEDS are good: http://www.mouser.com/.../Standard-LEDs.../_/N-b1bc8... Next is your resistor. Below is a resistor calculator https://www.digikey.com/.../conversion-calculator-led... For instance, I used a 3.2v LED, 20mA, and we know that cars use 12v. So I needed a ~440 Ohms resistor .176 watt. It's safe to go with 500mW. The best resistors are metal film. They reduce noise (LED Flicker), better tolerances for voltage spikes, and higher heat handling. These are the resistors I used. REMEMBER TO USE YOUR RESISTOR CALCULATOR!! Good choices here (470 ohm 500mW):http://www.mouser.com/ProductD.../Vishay/CMF55470R00FKR6/... On each specific switch, as shown in the video here on this forum, there are rubber 'bulb condoms' that sit inside the switch. They're ass, take em, shit on them, throw them away. Remove the switches from your facia after you've taken it out. You'll have to unscrew them. Makes it easier, and there is a reason for this. Hide your empty facia somewhere. You won't need it for now. Plug your removed switches into your harnesses. Turn on your running lights. Get your red or some colored paint pen. Take a spare LED that's been wired with your resistor, and touch negative or positive to your contacts and do some guess work on the polarity. Don't short your LED out unsure emoticon Once you've found the correct polarity direct, mark your hot wire with your pen After you got the marks, I mean it's basic soldering. Red to Pos terminal, Black to negative terminal. It'll take some fenaggling to get the LED into the hole, but you'll just have to be patient. Use some epoxy or RTV to glue the led in place. This is to hold the LED in the correct position, or it'll bounce all over the place because it ain't got a condom. For the window switch. It's just clipped into the door panel. Pry it out gently. It's difficult to find the location of the clips so you don't break them. Took me a bit. There will be a yellow cover on the back of the main window switches. Take mini screw drivers and pry off the clips. Once you get it, you'll see a circuit board with a T3 socket. I decided to just solder in an led (after testing my polarity using the same method above). Take down with epoxy and good to go. Before your decide to snap everything back together and start driving, test out your switches to make sure they even work. Also, you can test the illumination. If you're feeling froggy, this is the perfect time to completely disassemble your switches and clean / lubricate them. I got rid of some electrical gremlins when I did this. I also flowed solder on the circuit board. Standard LEDs - Through Hole | Mouser Standard LEDs - Through Hole are available at Mouser Electronics. Mouser offers inventory, pricing, & datasheets for Standard LEDs - Through Hole. MOUSER.COM

Thanks for the compliment on my knob! How's the quality of superior auto's seat covers? Thinking about going that route.

This is exactly what I bought: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231152881341?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/231152946486?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Received the gaiters boots. Actually, not bad at all. I'll be buying their dashboard cover. I just have to figure out what the strongest adhesive is I can use on the dashboard and leather material.

what do you mean?

How durable is flocking? America is F***ed, man. I can't ship glue overseas to my base in Japan. I was just about to hit the buy button.

Yes, I won't just disappear. I just have to weigh my options, and figure the best plan of action. I'm really, really OCD.

i'm looking to do as much DIY as possible. I've done a dashboard reskin on a ford ranger, but never on a gtr. I'm looking for pre-cutout / vacuum pieces so i can rip off the old, and glue on the new myself. Same with doors and other interior pieces too.

I'll worry about a full recover some other time. I guess the dashboard will be the last thing to get work done to it, (since of it's price) I replaced the speedo cluster facia today with a new one. Looks great. But, the switches actually have bulbs in them! I didn't know this. Does anyone have a proper LED replacement for the TSD 077 3mm incandescent bulbs? Maybe a guide that someone can point me to? Thanks in advance.

I live in Japan, so I'm not sure exactly what turps is. I'll try to use some goo gone and alcohol.

The only issues i've found so far, a bit annoying. But, shouldn't be too much of a hassle for just a repair. Something legitimately permanent.

I'll do very small pieces at a time. Also, now that I know, i won't use the Gaiter stuff. What are y'alls opinion on just repairing the dashboard instead of tearing it apart? A new dashboard is too expensive.

Phase one is stripping the dashboard of the vinyl, and gluing / fitting the covers. Here are pieces as follows that I want to start replacing. If anyone has a review on the quality of gaiter items, let me know. I have their boots and they're not bad at all. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RED-STITCH-DASH-DASHBOARD-LEATHER-COVER-FITS-NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTS-GTR-R32-89-94-/231233484167?hash=item35d696f587 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FITS-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-COVER-LEATHER-RED-STITCHING-/350993661067?hash=item51b8da3c8b http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RED-STITCH-MANUAL-GEAR-SURROUND-SKIN-COVER-FITS-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-89-94-/391174100695?fits=Plat_Gen%3AR32&hash=item5b13cb16d7 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/red-stitch-FITS-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-89-94-GTS-GTR-DOOR-HANDLE-COVER-/231153497638?hash=item35d1d27626 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RED-STITCH-FITS-NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTS-GTR-R32-89-94-2-X-REAR-DOOR-CARD-TRIM-COVERS-/390764920477?hash=item5afb677e9d http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/red-stitch-FITS-NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTS-GTR-R32-89-94-2-X-DOOR-CARD-TRIM-COVERS-/390765736158?hash=item5afb73f0de http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RED-STITCH-2X-WINDSCREEN-PILLAR-COVERS-FITS-NISSAN-SKYLINE-GTS-GTR-R32-89-94-/390807880240?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5afdf70230 http://www.superior-cia.com/product/141seat covers

Drove around with the vacuum disconnected. It's not heavy, but after a while it just gets annoying. I have decided to just replace the booster. Also, the annoying squealing went away when I disconnected it lol. Proper troubleshooting without even trying.

My clutch booster is squealing. I was going to replace it, but then dang ole' dang ole, i found a booster delete set up. How much heavier would a stock clutch, or dual carbon clutch be if this booster was removed? Honestly, would it be worth it? r32 gtr 1991

Sounds good to me. This means I can start ripping all this junk off and cutting out some templates with the old pieces of vinyl.

I've been getting some minor things put together to start refurbishing the interior of my R32 gtr. I have a few questions before I start tearing the inside apart. What material is used underneath the faux-leather the dashboard, door panels, and rear upper and lower interior quarter panels? I'm lead to believe they are plastic, not fiberboard, if i'm not mistaken?

Us americans feel we can say no to anything even when we're in the wrong. For instance: An american who won't let my car into the country because he doesn't know a f*****g think about japanese cars.