RB335

I've had a 9280, 9280's in stock form produce a bit of a whine when coming on unlike the 9180 so you may already like the turbo sound as it is.

I have recently used Wren One Pty LTD, who is a wrecker in Perth that often gets Skyline, Evo, and lot of other JDM parts

That sucks did you end up getting it back. I'm wondering how was it stolen did someone break into a home or steal the keys off you?

LS39 = r34 gtr 3.54

RB25 NEO AWD engines use a different bolt pattern on the sump than other AWD RB engines, the spacing and angle between two bolt holes near the input shaft area differ, measure them if looking at second hand sumps to ensure same as yours The input shaft flange looks as if it might be a different length too ?, unsure about this.

RB26 worked head Removed from good running car to go larger engine. It has : - Intake, exhaust and chambers ported by RAMS - Supertech +1mm Valves - Tomei bronze guides - Tomei cam studs - Kelford Beehive springs - Titanium retainers Great for high HP street car $5000. Location, Perth, can send anywhere

Used Ben at J-Spec, service was mostly good and I did appreciate him being honest about cars condition and he did mention his opinion on cars that are not good enough to import even though I had a chance to get things over and done with so I did appreciate his advice on advising I wait for the right car to come by. I do feel there is a smaller but significant element of - hey if things go good, cool. If not oh well who cares get on with it.

I do have a spare set of coolant/oil lines suit EFR 1.05 rear mounting on 6boost if anyone wants, Also downpipe suit EFR on Skyline w 6boost.

What size dump pipe did you have before the 4" , or hard to compare what dump did as you also upgraded exhaust?

Doesn't the 9180 make it's max flow at 116k RPM wheel speed? I see most people here ended up not running the 9180 turbo this fast? I made similar power on a 9180 with a 1.05 as others on a reasonable reading dyno maybe the rear housing needs to go bigger

I'm also after a 1.45 suit a EFR9180 / 9280 if anyone has

My engine builder builds many high power track RB's, lots of dollars in the head, when I asked about the rear coolant drain he talked me out of it, so just doing oil drain only. My previous experience with PRP is the bloke who runs it likes to sell all sorts of stuff and talk you into all sorts of stuff whether it benefits you, or whether it doesn't benefit you.

Why are they made to work with reverse rotation? Is it a more efficient way to run a turbo?

There is also a N1 version of that hose if a recall, unsure of differences or upgrade

Check your engine mounts are good, too much movement may not be good for hoses.

Had twin Tial MV-S 38mm gates with Y pipe plumbed back into a 3.5" dump EFR9180 held power fine 8474 began dying up top, I had limited time to do more dyno runs so only did one test but quite a bit of street driving on both turbos. OK no problem i will try vent them to atmosphere next time see how it effects it will have much more sensors all over the engine on next motor too for monitoring stuff on manifold. I have no access to an engine or dyno at the moment Mafia you are interested i can send you my 9180 then cover freight back to me you can test it lots of tech talk etc but test ok.

The issue with my 8474 was it did fall over in the top end it was struggling thats the only reason i removed it, I do recall the car had some odd rough running the more i drove it which i mistaked for the turbo, or drop in exhaust cam hurting flow so couldn't really get it to run how it should, but response wise I could get it on almost right off the lights with a gradual clutch drop most wow factor out of any EFR turbo i've tried zero lag getting back on throttle this was 1.05 rear great turbo for fast street driving

Might try a 8474 again on my new engine with better flowing head, was a very snappy turbo

Put one on your car and you'll find out

Often coolant pooling at random spots around the throttles can be a slightly loose or damaged bleed screw, it wont' be visible leaking but slowly seeps and gets under the throttles and leaks under

Good idea to wait until a few customers pay and test the blocks out first.

At one point Mr Dodge made a comment on his page saying that the N1 blocks are worst than 05U's. I asked an open question simply from curiosity and wanting to learn, for every handful of N1's or 05U's how many of them crack he got angry and messaged me in a split second demanding I don't ask baited questions The N1 block was made for cars competing in the N1 Endurance racing series, with a budget to go top level racing so surely some thought went into it regarding what material to use or input of someone clued up. If you goto a place that has build hundreds of 26's and you want high power likely they spec an N1 block. There are a few guys who have had a PRP brace on 05U's and ended up with exterior cracks, how well the brace helps a brand new 05U block though, perhaps there's some merit to it. When I went to build my engine, given an 05U $3500 plus $1500 Brace plus machining plus shop labour, fitting your not really too far off a N1 block price.

N1 blocks rarely crack above the oil feed compared to 05U's. Nismos foreman mentions they were designed to prevent this issue on his blog. They also have a thicker deck. From the info I've been told, a Sleeved RB26 built by JHH for a client appeared to begin mixing water and oil after deck began to give up, turned out expensive exercise for the customer who's having ongoing problems with it. Appears on sleeved 26's the torque applied on the head studs is a fine balance of keeping the head sealed to block but not ruining the weakened deck. I didn't want the risk of any crap like that so I went a Billet block even though I really wanted to stick with a cast block to be honest. Once I get a decent amount of KMs on it I'll update on how it holds up They still are building sleeved RBs. Lot of builders are in disagreement with each other on sleeved blocks.

High power grout filled 05U's still crack in their weak spot. All of Maatouks 1000hp 26 Cast builds use a 24U block. They do not run braces. That might give some clues.

I'm having a engine with a billet block built. Can use an external pump that sits under alternator and re-use the wet sump and A/C compressor. If going dry sump needs larger oil pump which sits in the similar location as A/C compressor so can't run A/C. Unsure if anyone made kit to keep both for dry sump.