RB335

Guide : RB26 Inlet manifold removal Hi. So after finding not too many detailed guides on removing the inlet manifold, some with missing pictures, I decided to have a go at it myself my way and do a guide as I went. This is not an easy job, however it is not impossible. Tools you will need will be various 3 inch, 6 inch 3/8" and 1/4" extension bars, Swivel and Telescopic ratchet, 10mm, 12mm socket. Stubby 10mm and 12mm spanners and stubby ratchet, and Uni-jointed 12mm socket, also long nose pliers of various sizes and angles. Screwdrivers flathead and phillips various. 1. Remove Igniter, Boost Solenoid, Washer Bottle, Fusebox Cover 2. Remove 2 x Fuel hoses, feed/return that are at the underside of the manifold, one goes to a regulator under the manifold, these will leak so you will need some sort of rubber caps to put over them to stop the leakage 3. Unbolt the fuel filter and swing it out of the way. 4. There will be 3 bolts holding the fuel pressure damper and hard-pipes (Pic in Step 2) on the underside of the inlet manifold. You can now remove the 2 little smal hoses that link these to the fuel rail. These are often on very tight and may need to be cut and replaced. You can now remove these hardpipes from under the manifold. Picture below of how the piece looks 5. There will be a large wiring corrugated conduit near the area of these fuel hardpipes that were removed. This is held on by a large plastic holder. Use a flathead screwdriver to unclip the conduit from this holder and lower the conduit. There will also be a cable tie holding a wiring conduit to a bunch of hoses and other things, this cable tie can be unclipped without cutting it 6. The conduit clip in step 5 is attached to a metal holder which is bolted to the inlet manifold. Feel around to see where the bolt is as it's quite difficult to get an idea of it's position, you will feel a "hook" like metal piece here too. Both this hook and the bracket for the conduit clip is held on by the same bolt. As you remove it, note it's orientation so you can put them back in the same way. Picture below shows the orientation, 7. Drain oil and remove oil filter 8. Now it's time to begin unbolting the ISCV from the manifold, this is a big aluminium block bolted to the underside of the manifold. The block is held directly onto the manifold by Three bolts facing upwards, two of which are seen in the photo Below, the third one is at the other side, you will have to feel for it. Remove the bolts shown in the picture, aswell as the hidden bolt not shown in the picture. You will also now be able to remove the clindrical shaped solenoid below the ISCV held on by the bottom 2 bolts shown in picture, it's held on by a gasket that needs to be replaced later, and also has an electrical connector Also remove the cable tie shown in picture below 9. At the rearmost part of the underside of the inlet manifold closer to the firewall there is 2 large hoses that slide onto ports on the manifold, remove the clamps for these using long-nose pliers or whatever method you can and slip the hoses off. There is also a brown plug, unplug it. 10. At the back of the inlet manifold, at the top there will be 2 large rubber hoses connected to hardpipes, remove these rubber hoses from the hardpipes 11. The hardpipes in above photo lead down under the manifold, to a metal coupler that holds them together and to the inlet manifold. You can see this coupler if you peer down the gap between the manifold runners. These hardpipes need to be unbolted either from the inlet manifold, or from the other bracket that holds them to the rest of the hosing assembly to allow the manifold to come out either with this entire pipe together, or without it. Option A - Remove inlet manifold with hardpipes attached. Remove bolt highlighted in yellow. This option is preferred if you can get to this bolt. Option B - Remove inlet manifold without hardpipes attached. Remove bolt that normally will be found in hole circled in red. If you chose this option this bolt will be a very difficult one to get to, requires stubby 1/4" ratchet and socket. You will also need to unbolt these hardpipes from the ISCV via flange held to ISCV by 2 bolts, there is a gasket here too (Highlighted Green) 12. Remove fuel rail and injectors 13. Remove throttle level assembly 14. Remove the large pressure hose from the front of the inlet manifold, loosen both clamps on it to allow the maximum movement. This one is very stubborn and prying to with a screwdriver aswell as spraying WD40 deep inside helps make it loose. You need to pull from the bottom right section of the hose, and pull upward and slightly diagonally. 15. Remove inlet manifold nuts. Here you risk losings washers. There is spring and flat washers. This is most likely to happen for the underside nuts. Here you can use a small magnet attached to a screwdriver, then contact the screwdriver to the stud just enough to pull the washers to your screwdriver/magnet combo. 16. Remove the vacuum hose hose and bracket that goes to the brake master assembly, this will give more clearance for the inlet manifold to slide out. 17. You can now slide the inlet manifold out.

The colour run, what on earth is that ?

At least I didn't miss nothing my car is still off the road but will be on the road soon We will definitely be having a cruise or something

WANTED GT-SS Turbos rb26 Hi Guys. I'm after a set of GT-SS Turbos for rb26dett. Cheers.

Elle come Race me at the Barbagallo roll on when it begins flick those R switches on

Hi. What a great car. I own a series 3 just like yours in similar condition but with much more KM, and to give you an Idea I wouldn't sell mine for 40k even if I needed the money. With a small number of Series 3's built, and with the KM's yours has you should be in no rush to accept offers. I would give it a while and put the word out in a few other places, then once you attract a GTR Diehard then you can get some good money for it.

RB26 -7 upgrade suggestions for optimum performance Hi Guys. I have chosen to put a set of R31 N1's (-7's) into my RB26DETT on my R33 GTR. My Goal is to make the most out of the turbos and intake, exhaust setup. I would appreciate any suggestions ontop of what I am doing already to get it performing to it's best in terms of response and power. Here is the list of supporting upgrades and mods I am doing and the ones I am thinking about, fuel is taken care of but more so in terms of airflow. I'd appreciate if you guys can read through this and perhaps comment and make suggestions if anything should be different or improved based on you guys experience. 1. HPI Dumps to Custom made 3" to 3.5" Front pipe, 5" Bodied cat 100 CPSI to Twin 2.25" Twin exhaust pipes. Here I have chosen to give the turbos the maximum area right at the front part of the exhaust to fill up so they are not immediately choked, so I went with the largest dumps and front pipe I could find. The front pipes will be unequal length, some people do talk that equal length allows both turbos exhaust to evenly meet up at the same time, however I think it shouldn't make a difference as it's constant continuous pressure, is that correct? 2. Apexi high flow panel filter in factory airbox, removing plate in side intake to fender off factory Airbox. I calculated the factor snorkel has a 10% larger surface area than the inlet piping leading to turbos so it wont restrict it, I am hoping the Apexi panel filter is much higher flowing than the OEM nissan one, or whether I should have gone for a K&N one. 3. This is the difficult decision. Whether to port match the OEM Manifolds to the -7 Turbine inlets, or not. My research showed opinions on this were divided. It has been mentioned that port matching them will increase lag, while everybody else mentioned that it's something that should be done. Two people who I have talked to, one a turbo rebuilder/tuner and other a tuner shop have mentioned this, so based on their experience I am chosing not to port them out. It is odd that doing this can create lag, because the exhaust gas simply will come to a smaller area again if you peak down the -7's turbine inlets. I'd appreciate any advice on this perhaps if anybody had experimented with similar sized turbos like GT-SS too. I have been advised against TOMEI Expreme manifolds, most say it will create lag on smaller turbo setups, yet the Dyno graph by TOMEI shows gains at every power level. I had also considered N1 Manifolds. 4. Apexi Power FC L-Jet, switching to Nismo AFM's. 6. Intercooler. Even though the factory R33 GTR intercooler can make big power, my goal is cooling and I want to always give the engine the coldest air so the ECU puts in more timing especiall for the hot summer days. Would switching to something like an ARC cooler or one of HKS's best cores give any improvement? I've never looked at a Standard R33 Core to see how it's fins look like internally. 7. Boost Level. I want to push the turbos to their limit even if they get unreliable. This is my first time modding an RB26, coming from 1JZ's I always got more power even if I pushed the turbo beyond its efficiency range. For -7's would there be a noticeable difference going from 20 PSI to 25 PSI? I'd like to hear from people who've done it not simply to be told it will make zero power more. 8. Oil. Everybody has their own choice. Would running a thinner oil such as what the factory recommend compared to 10W40 which most appear to use. I just thought I'd ask, I noticed my -7 turbos are not as free spinning as my original ones, could this be because they have less wear? The original ones spin much longer, one of my -7's is more free spinning than the other. Is it anything to be worried about? Any other suggestions are welcome to get the most out of this setup. Thanks.

R34 N1 turbo identification and A/R difference Hi Guys. I've bought a set of what I think are -7 Turbos, which I assume are R34 N1's, but I have found there appears to be 3 variations of the Nissan part number, if the documents I am looking at are correct, the A/R's differ, but I would have thought it was exactly the same Turbo, and similar performance to GT-SS Turbos. 14411-AA401 14411-AA402 14411-AA403 This is the document i'm reading, it also apparently shows the AA403's have a GT22 compressor housing and not a T3 : http://www.readbag.com/psiparts-au-downloads-gtr-turbo-comparison Looking at specs, all appear to be the same except the AA403 which apparently has a 0.42 A/R, where as the rest have 0.6 compressor AR's, I'm wondering how can this be if they are all apparently the same. Having a look at my compressor, The A/R is 0.42. Rear wheel definitely appears to be steel. I just want to know if I got the real deal here, pretty sure it would be ball bearing. Here is what my Tag says 14411-AA403 707160-7 there is very small charachters on the tap that say something like "Red Signal" on it, I can only make out the "Signal" The question is are these R34 N1 Turbos and will they respond and have a top power similar to GT-SS? I am just wondering how the A/R of 0.42 is going to make the turbo perform different to a 0.6 Compressor A/R Just trying to do some research people appear to say this is the last rendition of the R34 N1 turbo and they changed the A/R for some reason. I had thought -7 turbos should be -7's but now there appears to be a difference. Thanks.

yeah baby SAUWA party

Yeah baby Nandos

Rebuilding R33 / GTR gearbox Hi. Just wondering has anybody tried to change the bearings and Synchros in a R33 / GTR gearbox. If so how hard was it, and what sort of pullers are required, is there the requirement for any large presses? Thanks.

RB26 N1 Manifolds, any better? Hi Guys. So in the upgrade path of my GTR, i've had lots of conflicting information, one of them is about Manifolds. I had been told by one person, he put TOMEI expremes on, and it made the car very laggy. So I'm wondering, is there any improvements to be felt either low down, mid or top with GT-SS Sized turbos at high boost. Most say just port match the manifold to the turbo inlet and to the head and don't touch anything, however I have seen some online shops selling N1 Manifolds, which still appear to be cast, but higher flowing. I'm wondering surely Nissan would have modified these for a purpose for the N1 models if they give some sort of improvements. Has anybody tried the N1 manifolds themselves and noticed any sort of improvement, or could offer any advice. I don't simply want to hear "stock ones are OK" comment, but some more info and personal experiences. I remember various articles on Autospeed on porting stock manifolds on RB engines, but did not cover RB26. Thanks guys.

No they cant because their cars are not the type that are to be sold for that money. You'll find a good one no problem for that money, just look at a few. If you are willing to take a gamble, you can try importing one too.

I know of a few owners who might take 75-90k if you can stretch it. If an R33 GTR S3 V-Spec interests you I have a clean one for 50

Series 3 GTR Xenons Hi. After a set of Series 3 GTR Xenons in good condition with no or little cracks or yellowing. Cheers.

RB26: Is there 76mm Front pipes to match HPI dumps? Hi Guys. I'm after a set of HPI Dump pipes, but I notice that as these appear to be the highest flowing, and have 76mm outlets, but most Front pipes are only 70mm. Is there a set of front pipes that will match the outlet of the HPI dump pipes, what have people done here? Thanks.

Running ball-spring type boost controller on RB26 Hi Guys. This is a pretty specific question. Is it possible for a Ball and spring type boost controller to work properly in the FACTORY location of the boost solenoid on an RB26, e.g R33 GTR. The way I see it, is the factory boost solenoid creates a constant air leak back to the intake. I replaced this with a ball and spring controller and am hardly able to get it to boost more than just the factory setup with restrictor removed. Am I right in saying that due to the setup, a ball and spring boost controller wont work here? I've tried it on both ways both wound out totally and wound in fully and really does not seem to be making any difference. The boost controller is a Turbotech and there is nothing wrong with it. If I want to run the Turbotech ball/spring boost controller, am I going to have to plumb it in differently, perhaps is there a different line I can intercept somewhere? I'm just trying to understand why my Turbotech is not able to increase boost plumbed into the factory location of boost solenoid. Thanks

Yes I'm in R33 GTR here very good condition

Facebook pages are not meant for a true car enthusiast community, simply a "Car likers general page" for people who sit at home and like photos and not much else.

Word has it from experienced turbo tuner on the rb26 TOMEI exhaust manifolds and other exhaust manifolds will increase lag. Are GT3 based on GTX technology. I Just wish HKS could just release a full range of GTX Bolt on twins for RB26

Thanks for coming guys from this forum and another, I'll probably look into doing it again the next weekend same time. Let me get a feeler of what day suits better Sunday or Saturday morning, prefer Saturday but if Sunday is your free day let me know. Thanks

i dont get it

Hi. I'm after a set of gt-ss, -7 or -9 turbos. Please do not offer me -5's. Thanks

What the hell that matches your personality 100%, i cant believe you Urban Dictionaried your own name soon the craze will be sweeping the globe

Hi Sneaky pete Why didn't you end up testing them? Do you still have them? Yes i had read that whole thread a while ago, and recently re-read it all. There was one guy who said he had great success, e.g 80hp more than -5's with -5 like response. But I don't get why others say the GTX will hardly offer any more efficiency when trying to use RB26 style housings, example how Tao at Hypergear is saying it wont really work out, I'm just trying to see where the confusion ends as so far only 1 person has sumbitted awesome feedback, but most turbo shops and builders say the GTX just wont give any real benefit. What's the go with the new HKS units? Link? Are they bolt on to replace factory RB26 units?