gtstii

where did you get it tuned?

the turbo isn't as efficient at high rpm - high flow, boost will drop off. A good dump pipe can help this

?

Robo, looking at your dyno run with the faulty AFM, you must have been feeling a massive flat-spot which was very much not normal - good to see you fixed it! I think the flat spot most people are talking about above is the levelling out of the power line towards the end as shown on your latest (good) dyno run. I feel a small "flat spot" also around the 4500-5000rpm area, but I think all r33's cop this. If I compare my dyno graph to yours, it is basically the exact same shape as your new dyno run (the better one).

so is there no way to "fool" the ECU into not retarding the timing? By having an SAFC and adjusting the A/F ratio that the ECU sees from the AFM, wouldn't this mean that the ECU would then not retard the timing because it "thinks" the Air/Fuel ratio is ok??

I was just wondering what input it is that the ECU uses to retard timing etc when we all make mod's. Is it the factory boost sensor/gauge? Does it determine if boost is above the factory level, and then the ECU retards timing and overfuels to compensate? If this is the case, for the people who already have SAFC's to control their A/F ratios, would the following work? - bleed air off the line going to the factory boost sensor/gauge so that it see's less boost and therefore the ECU won't retard the timing etc.... - Then use the SAFC to tune fuel ratios and should find that the ECU isn't retarding timing b/c of too much boost. Is this possible??? thanks

if you have a jap stereo which has had the frequency converter attached - then it's no good to tune in. If it hasn't had the converter installed, then your ok. I think they use around the 80's MHz frequency mark

I'm interested to know how this goes!! thanks

what he said. the stock factory set up has a solenoid which will increase the boost above 4800rpm'ish - disconnect this and you'll be ok!

Guys, I've had the same problem, running the std turbo but with full exhaust, r34 gtt stock intercooler and slightly more boost. I find that boost creeps up when stretching gears above around 4500 rpm. Please read my thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=20562 any suggetions as to what is causing it? could it be my split pipe dump pipe? (the wastegate pipe is around 35mm internal diameter) things to consider: It doesn't seem to do it as much when the stock boost solenoid is hooked up? It became noticeable when I fit the dump pipe. It became worse when i fit the r34 gtt intercooler (more flow up top?) My turbo is standard only want to run around 11psi

Does anyone see any problems with doing the following? - Cutting actuator rod on gtst - Threading the ends at the cut - Placing a coupler between this section - Using this as an adjustable actuator Is this possible with the stock actuator? ie. does the spring, diaphragm have enough travel to allow the arm to be adjusted so it won’t open until you hit 12psi? (it can’t be too far off if you get 10psi up top of rev range with standard set up)???? thanks

What would be the benefits of going an EBC over an actuator with an adjustable arm? Is it only the fact that an ebc will bring boost on faster? Do you still get spikes when using an adjustable actuator? I prefer the actuator cos it isn't really noticeable and cheaper? any opinions? thanks ps. who sells adjustable actuators for gtst's? (i imagine it wouldn't be too hard to just modify the arm on the existing one by threading it etc?)

how do you mean you would get more out of the lower rev range with a pfc, by tuning the timing? Is there much there to be gained is what i want to know?

how do you know what your timing should be set to?

so, with the mods listed above - what differences would you expect to see in rwkw with: - adding an SAFC - adding a pfc? what I want to know is if the ignition map is really that bad when you are only running about 11psi (0.75bar) or is it mainly the A/F ratio which goes haywire? If with those mods and 11psi, there isn't that much power to be gained ($800 dollars or so worth) with a PFC, then I will go the SAFC!

If planning on having an r33 gtst with the following: - full exhaust (dump/front/rear) - pod & CAI - stock intercooler - EBC (11psi) what is the better way to go (considering I dont want to blow mega bucks) a Power FC or an SAFC? I know overall a power FC is a better unit, but wanted to hear opinions from people who know or those who have gone from an SAFC and upgraded to a Power FC (with similar mods)? Is it worth the extra $$ to go for a Power FC considering the std turbo & cooler? The main thing in terms of making power I guess is the ability to tune ignition with the PFC, will the ignition map really be that bad with the above mods? How much extra over the SAFC will the PFC give in terms of kW? thanks

the flares are for when some poor b@stard gets stuck in the snow mine's still there

http://www.cargear.com.au/dashmats.html check this out

go here for info and pics about the stock r34 gtt cooler http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...?threadid=21451

Hey sydneykid, you said a power fc will give you 15-20rwkw and is better than an safcII, but how much would the SAFC give you in comparisoon. ie. how much more do you get from a pfc over an safc with a car with usual zorst, intake etc mods and around 0.75bar? thanks

Do the stock wheels from an r34 gtt fit onto an r33 gtst? Has anyone done it before and have any pics I can look at to see how it looks? thanks