Hemppis

Tyres are driven approx 2000km and all are same size and made at same week. Last night I noticed that Atessa is not anymore try to rise torque needle on basic drive. Only if press gas more it jumps up normally (it was snowy road and i have friction tyres under). I tested also is CEL even working. Engine was running and i took one ignition coil wire out approx 3 seconds. After this CEL was on, and i recived faultcode P1320 (google gave me ansver "Igition Signal" so it makes sense). I just wonder about if one sensor is working somehow, giving faulty signal to ecu, but ECU do not realize that it is misleading (signal is on it's limits but not so bad to bring CEL on). Im going to Check sensors signal with an oscilloscope. When i took out one of mainfold hoses (bybass valve hose) and I covered half of this hose by my finger it, the engine sound is not changed at all even though I covered the hole completely / half.

Okey one night spent with a car. - Starting engine it was approx 40-50*c warm. Starts nicely, runs normal, no unusual sounds, no missfire. Only fault is lack of power and engine runs like a vibrating & jerky during drive. - Starting engine when it is hot. Starts nicely, runs a moment nicely then starts this missfire and "plohf" sound at the end of the exhaust pipe. Some moments its runs like a normal, for the most part its running with missfire. Its lack of power and when engine is loaded engine runs jerky. - After driving i can smell little bit of burning oil at inside, no visible smoke ect at engine bay. Exhaust gas smells normal. No visual leaks when i look top of the engine and sides. - Engine oil level is still at same point as yesterday (almost max level) - When i drive at 80km/h, i keep like a surface gas but vacuum meter shows almost -0,1bar or 0bar. And engine is running unstable - Sparkplugs heads looks like a creamycoffee brown. NGK original plug temperature rate 6 matches to Denso's 20 - No fault codes found Another video with testdrive: http://youtu.be/gfrbU9uMPl4 Next I'll try to find what causes this burning oil smell. I picked up my PLX AFR sensor at garage and I'm going to install that (just interested what happens AFR ratio when engine is running jerky). After this if I still have motivation I'm going to check up turbo's turbine condition. So my ideas will start to run out really fast... ps. outdoors is within 6 hours of raining about 20cm of fresh snow . I am frustrated and pissed off...

The engine started yesterday run unstable (09.01.2014) . I drove the car park and turn off the engine ( it was all ok). 5 minutes later I left . 4WD fault light came on and the engine seemed a bit inefficient. Just Like being driven SNOW mode is enabled . Car aside and a new start-up , 4WD light went off but the machine still seemed a little inefficient. The boost was found less than 1 bar. At this point, I moved to the motorway and I noticed the front torque meter bouncy . Asphalt and light acc, 4WD meter bounced between 0-70nm . Motor tugged and twitching was also reflected in the torque meter. The car was then parked for three hours . I jump in then tried find fault with the motorway. Brisk acceleration ( engine was underperforming ), and the engine began clearly to run 5 or even 4 cylinder a few kilometers away ( 500m acceleration , light running 2000m ) . Hood open and smoke rised from the engine room , especially in the rear of the engine compartment . Oil level OK, no oil stains everywhere, no visible leakage but still smells and puff . ( I had previously leaking rocker cover gaskets , swapped them 2 weeks ago and since then has not stunk burnt oil . This smell was not clear oil. It is difficult to describe , but something between a very hot engine - overheated brakes - the first installation of the turbo first driving the red-hot . I got in the trunk of the new spark plugs (to my friend car, but those IKH20 looks like a same?) and changed them from the same 're standing in the middle of the forest. The plugs were worn , but one was clearly the oily, the plugwell wasnt oily and oil the threads of the plug were oil . The plug at the bottom of the porcelain was darkened , and oily. 45 minutes later (it was snowing nicely during sparkplug chancement!) the engine was running with new plugs. Engine sound was better, but listening to the exhaust pipe to get heard clearly that one of the cylinder is missing or there is missfire . This step it does not stink any more unburned fuel or unusual smells. 5 km drive to the home. The car was better, but the 4wd torque meter is still unstable at asphalt and part of power is missing . At home i tried bleed air out of ATESSA system , no bubbles and no fault was longer active . This stage, I shot the video and recording the video 4WD light came on . Indeed, the only fault light that burns is a 4WD, nothing else has been active today. 4WD fault code I didint check up. . At this point, the cold long drink in the refrigerator called seductively . Video: http://youtu.be/9gKzesaP818 Today (10.1.2014) It´s -2*c cold. First i check every hose and wire connectors. No oil leaks, engine oil level is almost maximum. I started engine and i listened engine sound with my knockpeltors. Everything sounds like a normal coldstart. At thispoint i did not heard any missfires or sound like that. Every injector got their normal ticking sound. Every ignition coil top sounds like a same. I closed the hood and start driving. At cold engine there was only lack of power when boost gauge tried to rise boost area, on vacuum there was no prblems. when i reach highway engine temp was almost normal and then engine running switched unstable, vibrating and its semms like a missfire. So lack of power and i noticed this happends -0,2 to 1bar boost range. After testdrive engine was hot and i heard random missfire. sometimes its runs like a normal and sometimes there is missfire one or more. So i took out one by on every invector and sparkplug wires just to heard wht happens to engine running. Everytime i took one plug out engine started run really unstable. Wire connector back to its place and i did this to every cylinder; everyone got same sound. After this test i took two different hoses out, no affects. Still got this same sound what you can hear on video. On idle random missfire, revs nicely and healty but under load at engine it start again run unstable and jerky. Boost rises nicely ect. No fault codes at ECU.. wtf.. Now i started to wonder these sparkplugs which borrowed from my friend (too cold plugs to this engine?) Still wondering why 4WD torque gauge rises when i press littlebit of throttle on asphalt and there is no slip or slide at any wheel. Suggestions for the next place to go find a fault?

I processor detective work in the dark in the garage in the morning. I took the gas spring to the desktop and I did the measurements and I found using Google the UK company that produces the desired gas spring lifting force. I examine the dimensions in the manufacturer's pages and I got to the shopping cart products: http://www.sgs-engineering.com Original gas strut includes a coarse threaded ball sockets so I have to buy new ball sockets with M8 thread. Also original gas strut is 1125N and i planned to order 1150N. Gas spring original body length is 14 cm and a stroke length of 9cm so the total length of 23cm. This means that the GS10-22-100-150 will not physically fit in the car (gas strut body strikes to strut support iron when the backdoor is closed). This means that the manufacturer's catalog contains one of the appropriate gas spring GS10-22-70-120. This product is a body length of 2cm too short and the stroke length is also 2cm too short! This place is more suitable for shorter, with larger gas strut rear door can not be closed. If we replace B10 to B11 which is 6 mm longer so stroke length difference is now 14mm. So, the end result will be the door several centimeters lower. My friend works at the selling company that imports the original STABILUS gas struts to Finland. I'll put him in the query that he have time to work on the sidejob to take a look availabilities and prices of original and possibly the bolt-on parts. Now a moment to sleep. Whether others found other options?