Touring

Ok. I'll do the same to the tps.

I never really set out to agree or disagree with you But I think the bottom like here is the type of people who want the bee-r system only want it for the mad props effect. They don't really care about their car and are only in it to show off popping fire in front of girls, if the car dies then it dies and they move on to the next car they will abuse.

I like how people try to promote the Bee-r ignition cut system by saying its better for the engine to run overly rich than lean. As if somehow running lean for a fraction of a split second during fuel cut is worse than the massive shockwave ignition cut causes. Its practically a nuke version of detonation.

Ok today I changed the engine oil with 10w 50 penrite synthetic and its much much better in terms of smoothness and vibrations. Not back to its pre touched self, but I'm hoping the rest of the vibrations will even out, although I am doubtful. Its possible that when I sprayed the crap out of the blow off valve with carb cleaner a lot of it got sucked into the turbo and somehow made it into the engine oil diluting it and making it more watery. Same with running past the piston rings. I have to say I have been feeling pretty gut wrenched about not doing the job right and in a hurry, but there was so much gunk and i just kept spraying and spraying. Whats funny is the car now has a much more pronounced typical RB25 or 26 sound, with a lot more backfires under off low throttle conditions and rawness to it coming out the exhaust, whereas before it was more like a patrol engine. Smooth and wispy. Probably 15 years of carbon build up gave the metal parts a nice cushion and now there is more direct metal to metal contact. It almost sounds like a WRX relatively speaking. Even though the idle smoothened out, when I slowly rise the rpm in neutral and hold it a certain level, say 2000 it still vibrates a lot more than I am used to, then smoothens out a bit between 2000 and 3000rpm, then gets a shaky again at 3300, then smoothens out at the higher rpms. Hmm. Whats funny is the rich smell is still there but its getting less and less. It leads me to believe there was some pool of carby cleaner still left over somewhere, maybe in the intake, blow of valve or within the turbo system. I say that because I also sprayed the crap out of the blow off valve. You mean because the valves sit on the inside of the combustion chamber and when they close they rest flush against the metal upwards meaning the cannot be pushed up any further? Yea that makes sense, but it could certainly score them or scratch them making a less than perfect seating? Im not so sure if I locked it at any stage... The engine didn't try to turn over and lock up at any stage. Just crank without starting and took a few good minutes to get going. I guess I can always easily check if I bent a rod buy simply checking the heights of the corresponding pistons through the spark plug holes and seeing if they match up in height. Ive never heard of subies cylinder cleaner but I'll look into it. Is that like seafoam? No chance of doing any damage by following instructions I take it? I have heard of seafoam causing damage even when instructions are followed

It seems you can break stuff with combustible liquid in the combustion chamber. Sounds like this guy totally bent something by hydolocking the engine. However mine never tried to crank and hydrolock, just would not start https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIROSsb37_s&list=UUvJwC5r81XZfIp7lqAEXIjQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKiLczI1rOo In other words his engine was hydro-locked and 30 minutes later he was able to start it, meaning that some of the liquid ran past the piston rings into the crank? I gave mine 15 minutes maybe 25 after the spray. I am hoping that was enough to let most of the carb cleaner run past. Its a long shot, but does anyone have a junk open block that they can spray carb cleaner onto the piston and see how long it takes for the fluid to start dropping past the rings?

Just pulled the plugs. They looked ok still next to new, a bit of dark around the base and whitish on the tips. 3 and 4 were definitely a bit darker but didn't look enough to cause fouling. I gave them a spray with the carb cleaner and put them back in and reset ECU. Car runs a bit smoother now but still seems down on power and clunkier running in general. Still smells a bit rich out the exhaust. I wonder if all the uneven carbon that was cleaned out the valves caused them to run rougher. Maybe carbon buildup makes a better seal and unevenly cleaning the valves i.e 3 and 4 got a better clean while the others as still dirty, may mean the engine isn't as balanced. I am hoping after a few thousand ks things will even out even more. Ive tried 0.8mm in the past and its definitely doesn't feel as strong as 1.1mm down low. It doesn't feel like a misfire anyway, just rough running. I always run the biggest gap I can get away with. Going to do the AAC valvle as next. Will I need to find a new gasket or can I re use the same one? Not good. Assuming it was hydro locked on the cold start, What would pop first, the hydrolic lifters, or the valves themselves? 60cc is at TDC correct? Ok thats not much, but can you tell me how long it would take carby cleaner to run past the rings into the crank? For example, if you took out a spark plug and filled it to the top with carb cleaner and put the plug back in. Would all the liquid still be there after 15 minutes or would some of it run past the piston into the crank and out of the combustion chamber?

So you suggest take out plugs and clean them or replace them? I should mention I changed the spark plugs with new ones of the same sort bcpr6es-11) prior to cleaning the throttle body. Thats why I had the throttle body open. So there is new plugs in there, but I guess brand new plugs aren't immune to being fouled.Yup what I did was stupid and a huge mistake. I saw mist coming out of the can and didn't realize it was building up so heavily into liquid until I sprayed in a cup. What? The last thing I want is internal component damage. Don't know why you think I'm shutting people down, I just want to see if anyone can eliminate that hydrolock possibility due to some reason, which would just ease my mind. TPS, AAC valve spark plugs anything else etc is what I want it to be.No there is no smell or smoke, other than the fact it smells like the car is running overly rich out of the exhaust. It has that typical rich/flooded car hasn't been started a while smell, even after a day.

Drove about 2 hours at highway speeds, any fouled plugs would have been cleared by now. And besides they would be fouled with carby cleaner which leaves no residuals, not gasoline which has oil in it and leaves residuals.

Yes I did. Went over it about 5 times. There is definitely nothing out of place, I didn't do much to the car besides throttle body clean anyway. I also cleaned out some other bits like the blow off valve with the same carby cleaner. I'm about to change the engine oil to see if that makes a difference. Whats also strange is the car now has less power after cleaning. I have to hold throttle noticeably further down to maintain the same highway speed compared to before. My question is, if you were to pour for example 50ml of carby cleaner down the spark plug hole, and sealed it back up, how long would it take to slip past the piston rings into the crank case if it all? Unlike water or gasoline which doesn't mix well with oil and is thick, it should seep past cracks very well. I know during a leak down test it is normal to have 10% leak in a sealed combustion chamber.

I noticed the throttle plate and body were very dirty, so I got a can of Throttle body and Carburettor cleaner, and went to town sprayed the throttle plate and all inside while holding the throttle open. This was on a RB25DET cold car, while the car was OFF. Exactly like this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQpPcdvSBks When I put it back together start it after waiting about only 15 minutes, it just kept cranking for the first 5-10 seconds or so, couldn't start up at all, then after about 20 seconds of cranking it started to stumble start only a few hundred rpm or so and immediately die. It took a good few minutes to get it to start running even 10% ok. Eventually it started to run without extra throttle but crazy rough. It took about 20 minutes to of idling to smoothen out to a half decent amount, but its still a lot rougher than before. What concerns me is the engine now just feels rough, even after a day of driving, whereas before it ran smooth. When you shut it off it feels rougher during that second of residual momentum as the engine dies off, as if the internals movement has roughened up (something bent or oil diluted by carb cleaner?) I didn't realize how fast this Carburettor cleaner builds up into pools of liquid in a corner you cant see. Due to the spray pattern I assumed it was evaporating quickly but it doesn't. You can fill up half a cup with liquid in under 5 seconds of spraying and it doesn't evaporate for days. Afterwards I had a proper look down the intake and spraying down the throttle plate the way I was it looks like all that liquid would run down to cylinder 3 and 4 (as they are in the middle directly behind the throttle body hole). During the cleaning I would say I got through about half of a 400g can so cylinder 3 and 4 would literally be flooded with about 100ml of liquid each. I have a few questions. 1.Does an RB25 starter motor have enough power to bend or damage something internally in a hydro locked situation, or does it have a safety cut off below that amount?. The Battery is brand new and very strong (770 Cranking amps). 2.Assuming various scenarios, how long would it take 100ml of for spray cleaner to run past the intake valves into the combustion chamber and past the rings into the crankcase? 3. Would the fact that the other 4 cylinders weren't flooded mean they were firing right and have enough power to do internal damage from a 0rpm start? What do you guys think happens when you spray 100ml of combustible fluid down intake for cyl 3 and 4 and try to start it?