Jump to content
SAU Community

Sinista32

Members
  • Posts

    12,360
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    11
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Sinista32

  1. Got one - thank you. no longer needed
  2. Found one - thank you
  3. Looking for an R34 GTT boost sensor. (neo) Looks like this
  4. Hi Noel, You wouldn't just happen to have the Neo R34 GTT boost sensor? Looks like this Located at the back of the block and the tube to it is normally blocked off. Attached Thumbnails would appreciate it
  5. Rob, maybe you could help me with the R34 GTT boost sensor? Looks like this Located at the back of the block and the tube to it is normally blocked off. Attached Thumbnails
  6. Hey Jarrad - maybe you could help me with the R34 GTT boost sensor? Looks like this Located at the back of the block and the tube to it is normally blocked off.
  7. Hi, I need really URGENTLY a Boost Sensor - R34 GTT please. The pipe underneath mine is brocken. It didn't matter as it was blocked off but going Nistune and having this function would be good. Looks like this. Cash ready. O'night post would be ideal. Cheers Richard
  8. 1. $1300 for front rotors and a set of pads all round sounds overly expensive. 2. To save dollars Buy and install a new radiator yourself. (Very easy DIY) With the quoted radiator install depends on the type of replacement radiator. OEM rads are generally expensive and restrictive. Not worth replacing with OEM. Aftermarket can be from $300 to $800. I suspect they will do a full check and service of your entire cooling system if your using radiator specialists like Natrad. So a couple of choices. 1. Go to a dedicated brake shop and double check what both mechanics said/did. and get a quote while your there. 2. DIY the radiator or again go to a dedicated radiator specialist and get a quote. If your a handy DIYer you could do the front rotors and all pads yourself.
  9. Thank you for the lead - beers on me
  10. I did not see you ...
  11. Prestige in Hume is very good on the body repairs and paint work. However not real good on organising mechanical issues that may have happened during the accident....
  12. Go Nitto for around $1350 about $200 difference between Nitto and Tomie support australian made VIc Locations here -> http://www.nitto.com.au/wheretobuy.html
  13. Actually Inline is the best locally. I know Chris is choosey with Skylines and their owners. He does very few nowdays. Alot of young skyline owners go in with a tight budget looking for the "deal of the century", or rock up with stuff off ebay wanting it fitted (we know how that works out). Quality costs.
  14. If it was me chasing your intended power goals I would go a seasoned standard block and have it built well by a reputable builder. Save the money from purchasing a good unmolested 2nd hand stock block and put it into the build. Crank/Collar, Oil pump and sump.
  15. Black 34 heading south on the expressway near wodes about 8am.
  16. The RRR is different. It was designed and built to be raced and rebuilt. The thicker walls alow it to be be bored out multiple times From a respected memeber out of the archives Quote all blocks are standard 86 mm z tune and 400 r motors have been bored out to 87mm. I did find a few years ago a page where a stock (05U), a N1 (24U) and a GT (RRR) blocks had been cut away The figures went something like this Stock had 3 mm of meat on each side of the bore (92mm outer point to outer point) N1 had 5 mm of meat (96mm) GT had 6 mm of meat (98mm) End Quote
  17. Still looking for a Nistune to suit R34 GTT Auto
  18. No - In the persons profile when you click on it is a "display name history" so you can actually check their previous member titles Plus when you click find content you see previous posts. People either get bored or made a poor choice in user name.
  19. In my eyes there can be only one Capital Steering and Suspension - Fyshwick
  20. Received 1 of the 2 today. Quick and easy. use email address to contact seller
  21. R32 GTR AWD I understand is the only one that is safely capable of using a switch (or pulling fuse) to use RWD only.
×
×
  • Create New...