Sinista32

4dr

nice Skyline too BTW

nice result

very nice indeed I notice 2 units that are not OEM in the cabin. One in front of the centre vent and one under the steering wheel.

Congrats to the both of you

LULZ hard to get over $30k no matter what condition/modifications for a 32 GTR already in country. I'd be hard pressed to get between $30k-$35k. Doesn't really matter what has been spent. In the end it's just a running GTR. Unless of course it has 500-1000kws on the Dyno or Sub 10's on the QTR.

Around $20k will suit your needs then I treat mine like a lover. Spoilt and driven with passion I'm not into giving her an absolute floggin'

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-Skyline-2001/SSE-AD-2909440/?Cr=0&sdmvc=1 buy with confidence

Skyline gods are sad that one of the flock has lost his way

Anf - the best thing to use is "grease and wax remover" (used to be known as - Prepsol - the painters friend). Supercheap sell the Septone brand in a spray can which is what I use. However any Prepsol type product does the job to get rid of the marks left by running rich. Only takes a minute or less. Spray on and wipe off. Clear coat safe and all that stuff

maybe a few more clearer pics. What are the other flat surfaces like (roof/boot)? hopefully a good polish will resolve this what ever has caused it. Do you know where they kept it (outside or in the corner of the shop) hopefully not petroleum type products/fumes gathering on the freshish clear coat. but yes it does look like water left on the vehicle drying up in the sun.

Thanks Ben C. Thought that was the case. Unless you have the PWD for the ECU your limited. I understand the multiple reasons why tuners do this.

would some tuners do this intentionally (advance CAS) and then make changes via the after market ECU to throw others off?

Freyed cable? need replacing. running WD40 down the cable doesn't help ? (I like the older Torana's with a foot brake but then released by a pull knob/switch on the dash)

buy for $6k sell for $5k c'mon Anthony any skyline is welcome

ACT Blank page - 11:24am to 11:30am something. (a short while ago)

So personally I see the options are 1. Import a really good one. Auction grade 4b. Everything under that grade is a lucky dip. Cost = $30k+ 2. Buy one for $15k to $22k and make it reliable yourself. All up cost $30 to $50k+ 3. Buy one that is in country and has had a lot of dollars spent on it (with evidence and from a trustworthy source). Cost $30k+ (money spent on it $50k upto $80k-$100k) When you have a nice 32GTR as someone mentioned above you will need a daily shitter. Reasons being theft, vandalism, accidents, when they're in the shop (and it will be) and to avoid car park dents. Major and engine work/rebuilds go interstate is the general rule Everything else choose who you end up trusting. As mentioned - Trojan Motorsports, ESP, Autotech, Ultimate

I am aware of a few that have also had terminal issues when installing oil coolers with thermostats (mainly DIY'ers). Seems it is obvious to them why - after the fact, unfortunately Insufficient oil after a litre or so of air is introduced under getting flogged conditions. - Impatient to test and see the temp difference

and thanks for my complete new set Andrew

-> mashing the Syncro's on your gearset <- now take time to warm it up and change slower. take the advice above save up to put something like an OS gieken gearset into it. Unless your a racecar driver or got money to throw at something better that is ! It's a 32GTR and the gearbox / syncros are the worst of the bunch and they're OLD

remember not to overwash the Pulsar or it will shrink and be just like the Micra

Hey Kat - do you think they will grab them form any country? Like Aus as well as Japland... Maybe their import car scene would like something other than Supra's

Hi Cham, I noticed you posted this morning and as yet no-one has responded that is sad! (bunch of lay about's) Questions / Answers Q1. what is the process involved when purchasing a car here in AUS (and interstate and registering in ACT)? A.1 ALL JDM's musty go over Dickson when Change of ownership Q2. if the car is not registered in its current state can the car be bought and registered in ACT? A.2 Yes and as per above (must comply to ACT regs. Q3. Recommended companies to do a car history / condition (number match) / financial check A3. Each state has someone like NRMA or RTA to do a condition and financial check and let you know the results (including if it could be registered in your chosen state and a basic what would need to be done). - car history will be difficult if nigh impossible. The seller may tell you what they know but remember they are trying to sell. With new Imports I would use JOC Q4. From what I rad, for imports/modified cars ACT owners are required to take the car to Dickson VIS. I am happy to do so but I have also read that the car needs to be in its original condition. this can be an issue as most previous owners of a 20 year old GTR would have done some modifications to their car. A4. Not absolutely correct. Original condition - not necessarily. E.g Pod filters if secured correctly are legal. Q5. Is there a special category when registering a car over 20 years that avoids a comprehensive inspection for registration. A5. NO Q6. I have seen some classic cars with club plates and registration. if I buy a interstate car can it be registered via a ACT Skyline club? A6. No. We are not a registered club per se' Q7. if I buy a car that is registered in ACT do I still need to get a vehicle identity check and inspected via Dickson VIS? A7. Yes. But not an individual Vehicle Identity Check. This will be done as part of the Inspection. Q8. ideally I would like a 94-92 version with 80-150k on the clock, how much would I expect to pay for a car in good condition? A9. Depends on your definition of good. Appx $22k for a base good one (more for a nice one ) Q9. any ACT owners want to sell there car ? A9. SAUérs will see this post and respond

As Nizmo said maybe start budgeting for a GB rebuild. Check your gear shifter bush (standard is white plastic washer at the end of your gear stick) Change your GB oil and I'd suggest going a stock Shift stick. (under $100 new, a lot less for 2nd hand). 32's are also known for being more difficult to get into gear when the GB is older and cold Short shifters are naturally harder to get into gear so this just exasperates your issue