aaron1259

Must be 3.5"+ preferably stainless

Showed my engine builder, he said he noticed it but the tests came up perfect and told me it has most likely been there since the block was cast and it's fine to use, so fingers crossed Cheers guys

Just got my block back from my engine builder, who said when he took the block, it was fine to use. He also said he pressure tested the block, however after closer inspection I noticed a small crack between the water jacket and the head bolt, is this block toast? Will it affect proper torquing of the head?

Just an update, yeah the pistons still had a high compression even with the 1.8 MLS gasket, so he decked the pistons he worked the comp to be 9.2:1 Is this still quite high, I have decided to use e85. Turbo is a Garrett gtx3076r, what would be the highest, safest boost I can run, I have all supporting mods.

Cheers for the info guys, getting them flow tested to see what they are flowing.

That's what I thought too, strange thing is there is no logo on any of them.

They came with the car, previous owner didn't advertise what Injectors were in it, however I found receipts for ID 1000s, not sure if he's taken them out or if what I have are ID 1000s. https://flic.kr/p/yBFYhQ https://flic.kr/p/yBFYgh https://flic.kr/p/zxCQfN Couldn't see any injector dynamics logo on them. From what I could make out: >PA6< 927 81187 7-29-03-13 015124

Picked up the pistons, can anyone tell me any information about them?

Turbo will be a GTX3076R, max 24psi, 3.5" turbo back. I have a feeling they are for a r33, that's why he's putting the thicker head gasket to bump it down, he said it won't be over 9.5

My parts provider has been trying to sort me out with some forged pistons for my build, however he said the best he could do was a set of forged pistons matched with a 1.8mm MLS head gasket, he said I would be getting around 9.5:1, is this too high? Will I be increasing the risk of det by much compared to something lower? I will only be running 98 pump.

The de head is a lot cleaner and newer, the det needs new valve guides and looks really unhealthy, the cam cradles are pretty badly scored. Would it be better just to reco the det head?

I got a NEO rb25de long motor cheap and was planning to drop the rb25de head onto my neo det block, I am planning to put 260 Poncams and valve springs and titanium retainers into the de. I know there some differences in the blocks like oil squirters, are the heads the same?

Looking at anything at the moment, PM me what you have.

Bump

Anybody know if a shortblock rb25det block will bolt up to the r34 neo's head with no clearance issues or anything? I don't really want to be using the existing crank so I might just get a pre forged block

That's f**ked, just got the car, the funny thing is it only started making the sounds after I dropped the oil (Which was SO filthy and full of metal) and put fresh golden stuff in it. Would the be damage to the head as well? Also I was planning to drop this in: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RB25DET-New-Forged-Short-Engine-RB25-Block-Bottomend-Race-Drag-Drift-/371239977607?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item566fa08287 Would the be fine with the neo head?

Could it be the bottom end bearing starting to wear out, I did have quite a bit of metal shavings in the pan during the last oil change.

I first noticed the knock (which isnt very loud) when I was in gear and clutch out, just slowing down. The whining was been there for a while and suspect a belt tensioner needs replacing, but I have no idea what this knock is. It can only be heard when I back off the accelerator. Here is a video:

It's a r34 GTT, the pipe does feel really loose, however I still cant pull it out of what ever is holding it? Any idea on how to remove it? It's a really tight squeeze

I recently took my manifold off to easy out a stud that snapped inside the the head thanks to the previous owner. When taking off the turbo I tried unscrewing the 24mm water return banjo bolt and didn't realise the pipe was bending, when I realised it was bending in I tried to put it back into place it snapped. My questions is, how does water return work? Where does it go? Also the pipe feels really loose and can move around, but I cant seem to take it out, does this mean it's damaged? I was planning just to run some an6 braided line I had lying around and just join the pipe back together with that.

I think it was about 800, give or take, also when you push on the brake on and off at idle the RPM would fluctuate (vacuum leak?), could this issue be related?

Just had a look at an R34 GTT and I am really liking the car and could be a winner as it is the first skyline I have looked at that is running coolant in the radiator. Everything with the car looks ok, except when the car is idling and the thermo fan kicks in, if you dont give it a good rev the car will stall, he told me its to do with the tuning on the haltech ps2000 and that the tuning isn't compensating and giving a bit more fuel and air when the fan kicks in, is this an easy fix for a tuner?

Cheers for the heads up guys, appreciate it!

Lol, do you think it will be that bad? He also said that the reason he was selling it is because he stuffed up an oxygen sensor installation and the wires melted on the exhaust, causing the car not to start, he thought the car was gone so he went out and financed a new WRX, later he found out it was only the oxygen sensor wires that had melted onto the exhaust, he replaced it and the car worked but he cant keep both. The only reason that I couldn't view it earlier was because he has the engine open adjusting timing? Would it still be worth having a look at? Or should I just not bother..

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/blacktown/cars-vans-utes/nissan-r33-skyline-with-rb26-/1061986446