Toff

Yeah i was considering just using an overseas company, it worked best when the motor was originally built so not a bad idea. And on that one, can i not just work out the current gap and add / subtract to give me the shim required? Probably explained that wrong but it makes sense in my head lol!

Yeah most people that have heard it said it was fine but it's always had me slightly worried. Oil pressure I can't remember off the top of my head but it has plenty, I run 10w60 You're probably right mate, best get ordering some shims! Guessing Nissan is the best place for them?

https://youtu.be/CCHaKUhZi34?si=PNdluupk9TWFtvws

Yeah that's exactly my thoughts but I'm far from an expert. Video didn't upload so will get it on YouTube and share the link. Thanks mate. Yeah as above really they're not horrible numbers are they! And it's on a greddy inlet. Has ID1050x that are quite noisy but tbh it did this on the older injectors. Lots of noise comes from the injector rail too.

Got them measured (better late than never) They seem to be the "wrong way around" IE Tighter on inlet and slacker on exhaust which I believe is actually the opposite to the norm on an RB? They're not perfect but am I right in saying they're not horrendous? I can't find the specs to suit the exact camtech cams anymore so using OEM and Other aftermarket specs they don't seem bad? Put a video on to show. Using a stethoscope the noise doesn't seem to be focused around one area. Worth noting the car has probably done 6000miles like this and it's never ever changed nor struggled to make power etc. I'm a bit stumped!

Yeah going to have a crack at is this week... Great

They were definitely the correct NEO Cams bud

Hi Bud, Yeah that's the next step, going to get these checked. they were set "bang on" when it was built and its always been present. They may well be wrong though!

Thread revival, apologies! I have a similar issue, strange noise that appears shortly after starting the car, fluctuates a bit with RPM... If you bring the revs up the noise sort of follows / trails behind and then settles if that makes sense? Engine was built years ago with CAMTECH 268 Cams (9mm lift i believe) and the rest of the upgrade kit with the springs and retainers. Can you upgrade the pulley itself, if the spring is too weak (same as on the VG30 Lumps) or is it pointing towards another issue? Cheers!

Hi bud, Thats good to know/confirm. Been a while since i did it but would have put money on it being all good at the time when i had a measure up. As far as the subframe goes, its the stock ENR One, they have no HICAS so they're a preffered option over a GTT one with a lockoff kit no? Next port of call is fresh wheel bearings and a full fluid change. When i did do it initially i did use fairly thick diff oil as its all i had at the time. Will do a full change out and see how she goes. Maybe a new mapper is needed... Appreciate the help @GTSBoy and @dr phil Any pics of your setup phil?

Theyre different, GTTs have the light grey fabric while GTR has the darker fabric

@GTSBoy Thanks for the response mate. Thats good to know then, it was a small doubt in my mind and i knew it was a long shot, it would either fit and bolt up or it wouldn't was my initial thoughts but it has eaten away at me 😅 Different Dyno, However had a few cars on both dynos and results normally very similar, definitely not that far out anyway. And only after driving it for a while did i consider it not being an OEM Diff, the car was a boggo standard N/A ENR, 200hp car so i wouldnt have thought the japanese owner would have swapped the diff. It was thrown together to give some shakedowns, will be going over it and re-furbing the underside at some point while its still a rust free shell so will pull the diff etc. It doesnt make any noise mind, so be very surprised if its anything agressive but i have yet to see it spin 1 wheel, always locks up! And dont worry, it gets a thrashing. Went to the nurburgring and back and did me proud, its just not quick enough..... LOL Cheers

Hi all, Bit of an odd thread this and looking for some insight. I have a 98 ENR34 which I have converted to Turbo using a 98 GTT as it's donor. The engine was swapped onto the ENR34 AWD gearbox to work with the OEM ENR drivetrain. This has had the 3x2 rear shafts which are still fitted. What I did do, was swap the sandard Cast rear hubs (with the bush type strut fitting) For GTT alloy ones, and the 3x2 shafts went straight in. The ENR has an LSD of some sorts and i needed this to keep ratios correct. The car drives no real issue, however it seems a bit "Bindy" and its an absolute PIG to push around the garage. Other people have commented on this also. Zero issues with the rest of the car. The GTT made 540 Flywheel HP on 1.2bar, with a weak fuel pump. Tuner reckoned an easy 600+ at more boost. The ENR made like 430 on the same map, and with all the boost (1.8bar BW S364) etc thrown at it the car made 540..... Convinced something is amiss. I remember checking the shafts at the time and they looked the same (at least on the hub end) But it has me thinking now that the stub length can differ? Google also tells me this..... Can anyone confirm before I go ripping back into it? It's a good couple of years ago since I did it. And if they are indeed different, can the ends be swapped round easily enough between the 5x1 and 3x2 shafts? (Should have done it right the first time I know) Many thanks!

Hey mate, I Have stuck a thread on the Link forum and he has give me somewhere to look, Just thought i would check the wealth of info/persons on here to see if they have had the same issues with the enr34 wiring diagram. I have a feeling its something rather simple!

Hi all, Bit of a noob here and first post in a while so apologies for that!Bit of detail, I own a 1999 ENR34, Fitted with a Tuned NEO Turbo lump. The car is fitted with a Link G4+ Fury and after getting the car up and running in 2wd i decided it was time to sort the AWD. Purchased a Haltech TPS adaptor, and proceeded to wire it in using the NISSAN wiring diagram (Seems poor for the ENR). Stock ENR34 TPS.The 4wd light is still illuminated, and the car runs in 2wd. Pump works ok, Gets power, Primes up as normal etc. Been a while since i touched the car as life got in the way but i need to re-visit and sort it as its really annoying me it not working!I know the Atessa ECU needs to see a modified signal, which it receives from the adaptor.Worth noting, when the PC Program is running for the link, and full throttle is applied, the % throttle indicator on screen shows roughly 30% Throttle when the car is at full, and down from there to 0%. Would i be right in saying the ECU Is receiving the wrong signal somehow? Possibly while the Atessa ECU Is seeing the full signal? Has anyone had a similar issue with an ENR?Sorry for what probably seems a noob question, I am not the best with wiring and electronics, but know how to use a multimeter.... LolThanks all