Toff

Think its just a coincidence to be honest. The cracked bucket does worry me though as the next engine will be a NEO. Want to fit new springs and retainers but cant see uprated buckets anywhere. Or info on converting to shim under bucket.

No external cooler etc was added, All stock on that side. After initial turbo failure i flushed the car on tickover with a 5w30 semi 3 times to try clear any shite left over from the bearing on the turbo. Was told this was too thin and could cause damage but surely this is bullshit when running it on tickover?

Hi Guys, Throwing this on here to see what you think, Engine was bone stock with bolt ons. Car had covered approx 100,000 Miles, Mix of KMS and miles so no true idea. I ran round in the car stock for approx 10k miles my self and all was well, Super silent, Made good power, Burnt no oil etc After the car was rebuilt i fitted a new water pump, Single turbo kit and all other supporting mods Car was running fine, Sat at usual oil pressure on tickover (Just below middle on stock gauge) Has it mapped gradually for 1.2 Bar of boost on a HX35 12cm with no problems, Until my brand new turbo failed. Bearing collapse. Got a replacement sorted, And for piece of mind i flushed the oil with 4 lots of 5w-30 (Only on the 3rd oil change did i run the car gently round the block, the other times where purely tickover) Changed for a generic 5w-40 fully and carried on At this point the car developed a light tick, And using a stethoscope identified it was one of the exhaust lifters. Stupidly i ignored this and drove the car. Cue 50kms later and on hot tickover the oil light came on, As well as my gauge dropping to zero. Blipping the throttle and driving it the gauge read normal. Got home, Dropped the oil immediately to find a very fine metal content in the oil. f**k, Pulled off the rocker to find it had cracked a bucket, Shim rattling about hence the noise. Here are some photos anyway. Also as a result of the oil contamination, It has scored all the bearings in the bottom end (Driving the car obviuosly never helped) Now i have a few ideas, Oil pump failed which in turn killed the lifter, Small fragments then got chewed up and killed the bottom end. Other one is the lifter failed,, Killed the pump, Killed the bearings Third idea is turbo bearings killed the pump, killing the rest in turn. Or lastly the oil pressure problem was purely a dodgy sender and the rest of the problems came about due to the turbo? Would like to note there was no over revs, Missed gears or any particular hard use. Purely a few boost runs. Any input would be great! I Will also be building another engine out of a stock neo, So ideas on what to go for on a 600hp street car taking to regular track days would be nice, Idea at the moment is spool rebuild kit (Rods, pistons, bearings and headgasket. Along with arp bolts) Or do i throw a stroker in there? Surely its not needed? And another question, Are the 25NEO Buckets the same diameter as the 26 ones? Wouldnt mind converting to shim under bucket if possible... Again if its needed! Thanks!

Right the top photo i found, A/C Compressor which i thought but i had routed the loom incorrectly, So thats that sorted This one is still pissing me off though...

Bottom 3 photos are part of the loom the runs through the drivers wing, Back upto that brown module, And will only go in that corner it's a short loom. 2nd one is behind passenger front light

Hi, On with refitting my engine and loom to my R34 which I stripped to a bare shell last year. Got it in and mostly wired up, Bit struggling on where these 2 go. People have any idea? Any help on these 2 would be appreciated, Went from a bare engine bay to this! Thanks

Lol I know that GTSBoy... I meant as in porting to remove casting lumps & bumps, Or modified in other ways ie chopped up like the one Hypergear did. Can see the wastegare.

Holy shit that's incredible! Manifold completely stock? Do the ATR45 turbos sit in stock location with no spacer etc? Blew my theory of the stock manifold being restrictive out the water lol.

Thanks for the responses guys. turbo and manifold I already have, Turbo was cheap at £450 new and there supposed to hit 600hp max so just a tad over my goals. Need to dig a few dyno graphs/posts out of the turbo, supposed to be very responsive with the spec But we will see. Will be using 1 large gate as it merges into one at the bottom, turbosmart 50mm perhaps. what else would you change on it? 100% leaving intermale stock for now. On the manifold point as well I thought stock was shockingly restrictive at 350rwkw onwards? Hence people killing motor's and hypergear cutting that one up and making a custom one? Twin scroll should bring the boost threshold down too. For future reference I will put up graphs once the car is finished. Thanks!

Little thread bump, Just on with ordering bits up for the motor (Delayed i know) And currently have: Both intake and exhaust gaskets Timing belt kit Exhaust manifold studs & Nuts Spark plugs 850cc Bosch injectors http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181687481776?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Greddy intake Hybrid performance twinscroll manifold 3.5" Turboback Holset HX35 Twinscroll 12CM Housing (Compressor racing spec turbo not a standard truck unit) Syveces S6 Ecu R33 Gtr Intercooler 4" Intake Splitfire coilpacks NGK iridiums (Heatrange 7?) Thats were im thinking at the moment, Going for the UNOPENED Engine option as its a mint engine currently so no point in splitting it right? If the headgasket goes at a later date (Should it though if tune is correct?) I will have to put one in. Goal for power is 550Hp At the Fly, so roughly 470Hp ATW, Or 360RWKW thereabouts. Thanks Toff

I have just fitted a Greddy plenum to my NEO And the intake ports are the same, Bolt holes are in the same place, And sitting the gasket on both shows they are in the same place.

Sorry mate i didnt really think about what you said haha, Thanks for that mate. 1000ccs will be plenty of headroom, But will i need injectors that big?Surely bigger isnt better in the case of injectors? Am i right in thinking i need adapters again for these? I am in the UK yes, And i considered Syvecs briefly but dismissed it too quickly, Just checked there website and they can build plug and play harnesses, which may be worth looking at over the Haltech/Link options! And thats good then, was on the lookout for an intank that would flow enough. Would a 255 not be pushing it though to get that sort of power? Just what i wanted to hear on the engine part! Hahaha thankyou mate, As commented above surely i would be pushing a 255. 1000cc injectors may be the way to go then!

By near stock everything i mean the block. Everything from intake to exhaust will be new (Ie Greddy plenum, 6Boost mani,3Inch exhaust, Haltech ecu, Upgraded fuel pump, injectors, Intercooler,Custom intake, Etc etc etc) Only thing left stock is the block. Sorry for not explaining myself properly, All supporting mods will be there! And thanks sleptema, 760HP On stock bottom end is insane, Have you got a link to that mate? On that note also i have found these injectors, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201145001596?_trksid=p2060778.m2763.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT What do people think? If i could get a set of say Deatchwerks (600cc) And a matching fuel pump i would rather do that, But these seem ideal if they fit the larger greddy plenum injector locations. Stock NEO Injectors are too short by approx 10mm, So i could mabye shorten the spacers and fit larger washers to compensate for the locators but would rather not... Thanks

Hahaha thanks Ben just what i thought!

Hi Guys, First of all i know the questions regarding these motors are all over the site, But none seem to have the information im after at the moment! Quick run down, Car is being restored at the moment and im not dropping a stock motor back into the car. My current spec list of the engine is Holset HX35 Twinscroll 12cm housing 6Boost Top mount twinscroll manifold Greddy copy inlet/HKS copy Rail 750cc Injectors (Still unsure on what to go for) 3.5" Exhaust I will be using a Link G4 Or Haltech ECU,Fuel wil be 99RON V-Power. For my goal of around 500HP ATF, Or possibly 450WHP say, Everyone i have spoke to says keep my immaculate bone stock block and leave it be. Dont open it if i dont have too. Other reports say the compression is too high (9.1 Isnt high though surely??) And you need a good free flowing setup to minimize back pressure (Again as i have, Apart from say cams??) One part of me says leave it be, and if i come into knock problems i will rebuild the head, fit cams and ARPs, MLS Gasket. Compression wise also surely fitting just a thicker gasket will ruin the stock quench pads ability to prevent knock to some extent am i right? What are peoples opinions on this? Car wont be dragged, Rarely if ever tracked, Will be purely road use. R34GeeTeeTees motor is pushing out incredible figures, and still stock block barring head changes yes? Thanks Toff

Thanks for your help guys. Plenum is here now and I'm impressed by the quality of it all. Will be fitting it with an adapter from Ben. One final question regarding injectors, I know I need top feed high impendance to go with the NEO motor/HKS Rail and found these ebay item number: 201145001596 Are they any good? And genuine for that price? Aiming for around 450-500whp Thanks!

I'm not retaining the TCS,And stock manifold again I'm not retaining for the reasons above. May still swap to an R33 TB & adapter for ease if I need to. And has anybody any proof of all this mid range torque loss? The power graphs I have seen on decent setups don't loose torque by much. And Rb20 torque wise I'm sure is a joke. I'm also aware that a stock size throttle body will flow massive power, So it's not because it's not big enough.

Thanks for that guys, Made my mind up today and purchased a greddy copy with TB And injector rail, Will be buying an adapter from Ben C34. Stock inlet I really dislike, looks,heats oak, just not for me. only problem I may have now is the TPS. How do people usually do this? Is the stock TPS the same drive?

Is that applicable to the GTT Though Jord? And i dont want to remove anything, i was just under the impression i would have to with the greddy setups.

Hi guys, After a little bit of help with my build, Car is currently undergoing a restoration and while it off to be painted i have stripped all ancillaries etc off the block ready to clean it up. I have a Holset HX35 To go on when the cars back and will be buying a 6Boost Mani to suit and other supporting mods. I am a little stumped on the inlet side, There is 2 options im thinking of. Buy a Freddy Greddy copy plenum with throttle body and fuel rail, If TPS Doesnt fit straight on modify it to fit, Remove all Idle valves, and other sensors etc that dont fit. I know i wont be able to fit the AAC Valve, but what else will i have to remove? Am i right in thinking my only idle setting then will be on the TB Screw? Will also have to make up new fuel lines etc, and im also unsure on what injectors i would go with? High impendance top feed i know that. Buy a plazmaman manifold and throttle body, at the price of £1200ish in the UK. This appeals to me due to quality etc, but once again what sensors etc do i need to remove? Does it keep the AAC Valve etc? Bit put off by the price to be honest... There is also the modded stock option and retaing all stock stuff, but not too keen on this idea Car will also be running a Haltech Platinum pro plug in, Will be retaining A/C. If i can fit a Greddy and remove all the OEM Idle and AAC Valve etc and get away with setting a base idle of say 1000rpm i will, Will the Haltech be able to adjust idle using the TPS and setting it up well? Thanks Chris

Hello everyone, just thought i would pop a post in here before i start asking questions and looking like a noob! Post relatively regulary on the UK Forums but the knowledge base/replies dont seem to great at the moment... Thanks