2002stagea111

geuss whos back sadly i thought this trouble was over it seemed to dissapear .,,its back and it sounds a lot worse fk me days looks like its mechanic time see ya later hard earned cash let ya know what happens

thanks again mate much appreciated

Scotty your a legend mate ., well got rid of the old oil which was 0w40 fully synthetic turned out to be absolute crap was the consistancy of gas when drained .. mechanic put fresh 10w40 in and that has done wonders, it appears as tho nothing is actually broken maybe slighty shaken doesnt appear damaged due to the crap oil put in previously but the rattle at 2000rpm has gone! i was grinning ear to ear, car is alot more responsive power is constant no stutters or nothing ., appears it just needed a good service new oil of correct grade fingers crossed for no more problems il keep posted thanks everyone for your help

thank you so much. i actually did not find the assembly in operation still learning whats where haha., friday i have got a full service booked in., fresh oil 10w40 hopefully does it wonders, if not and the grindings still there il go ahead to identify which side it is thats making the problem than have a look to see whats going on under cam actuator cover., that explains everything because it doesnt make that noise on a cold start only once up to operating temp., fingers crossed the oil makes it better ., 1 last question mate would you trust your local mechanic to try fix it or is this a critical fix once again thatnks for your help your a legend mate

would changing the oil back instead of 0w40 to 10w40 make it better or is it just going to break eventually anyways., whats the worst it could cost to fix ? i need to find a mechanic locally whos done this before

It will be the cam actuator assembly hitting the end of it's travel, not necessarily the spring. Do you know what grade of oil your mechanic was using? I usually try a thicker oil before swapping parts, as the camshafts need the correct grade to work properly, they could also need a re-learn. $500 for the parts sounds cheap if they are new, the job may be quoted much higher if you include labor, it's quite a job to replace, especially if he wants to drop the engine. is that what i should be reading sorry mate i really dont know what im talking about i really do appreciate your help tho godamn this terrifys me i havent got 5k to spend on a rebuild

that whining your talking about what exactly did it sound like ? must be different to my problem mines a mettalic crunching sort of noise yours must just have been the belts? sorry if i dont know what im talking about

cheers junkie i will do that tommorow 10w40 full synthetic.. Reprieve awesome to see your also in new zealand yeah i have the manual it does say 5w30 bare in mind that might be for japan but ima hope 10w40 is also good . thanks alot for everyones response inrelation to oil grade i just hope if i get the correct grade in the car the noise from the suspect cam actuators gets better hope nothings broken ., will post after oil change and service

cheers brick

If i replace with 10W30 oil grade will it improve or is something actually broken that can lead to serious damage

"It is just the cam retarders, are they making noise? will it break if i leave it ?? when i say oil additive i mean like engine tune up or clean out or ., 0W40 fully synthetics not the right oil ae, since i just got it serviced i might leave it 5000km than change it back to 10W30? cheers mate sorry about the bombardment of questions

well its just had a service with fully synthetic 0w40 i think thats its a bit to thin ae? would u recommend oil additives ? il read up what you have suggested thanks alot mate

2002 nissan stagea rs250 FOUR car starts fine idles fine but when revs brought up slowly to around 2000rpm in gear,neutral,park whatever theres quite a loud mettalic sounding rattle ka clink ca clink ca clink doesnt seem to affect performance ,iv brought it to my local mechanic and his thoughts are the chains not being tensioned properly at low load therefore rattling but im not 100% sure needs a oil change thats for sure im just hoping the chain hasnt stretched or some expensive bs like that but any thoughts will,upload sound recording asap

mine never worked then i managed to open it 10+ times and know all of a sudden (after cyclone pam) my glass tailgate wont open again ., really annoying i tried taking of the plastic bit on the inside where the latch is and tried cleaning,drying everything compressed air to blow shit away but nothing works so i might replace the fuse and hope its just that., whats the story can u put a 15 amp fuse where a 10 amp should be ? would this benefit in any way

the fuse for the glass tailgate is a 10 amp and is located on the bottom right of the fuse box next to the drivers foot i have got the translation for the fuse box in detail i will post