Robzilla32

Are they the 78 works LEDs? I am keen to see how they perform. I would appreciate it if you could post your impression when you try them out.

I will be attending. Cheers Rob

Assuming that is you shaking the chap's hand, I understand your choice of previous profile pic

Mmm.....blue.....arrrrgggghhh (Homer Simpson drooling noise)

I hope to make it along. Will confirm next week. I nominate whomever will make SAUVIC great again (still)

That is quite a selection.....do you have any jousting sticks?

Search for "AFM solder" on this site as you may have cracked solder joints that have been distributed by removing / reinstalling the AFMs.

Nah you hold onto that big metal handle with your right hand and stretch out with your left hand for the tickets. Just need to understand what Bourbon limit the handle is rated to prior to putting any drunken weight on it

I work for nothing less....

It reminds me of part of the glovebox assembly but then the cirles are reminiscent of the taillights. Is there a prize for getting this right?

Bump. The gearbox is no longer available as it is MIA.

Does it have to be a single plate? The Nismo Super Coppermix twin plate is very light and easy in traffic.

Nice work. Although I am a bit disappointed that I cannot see the GReddy logo on the pipework...

This one is better and you get a 180sx. Just need an engine and you have a GT-R: https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1990-Nissan-Skyline-GTS-T-R32-Manual/SSE-AD-6258615?pageSource=details&id=SSE-AD-6258615

Just etch "HKS" or "GReddy" over the rough bits. Job done

Amayama have been my go to supplier recently for genuine Nissan parts. They have had lots of obscure parts either in stock or have been able to source from their suppliers.

A few of your regular readers are kiwis... There are dickheads in every country and NZ is no exception

It is bad so you should give it to me

The Pioneer head unit I installed in my GT-R will only display some menu options if the handbrake is engaged. I decided to be the one person in the world that did wire it up to the handbrake but it was a direct cable and no splicing required

Noice! Love that fat ass enhancing offset on a 32

It is well worth getting hold of a copy of FAST so that way you have a full reference for the car. Once part codes have been converted into part numbers you can search for them on Nengun, Amayama, Kudos, Patsouq etc as @djr81 has mentioned above. I have had the most success on Amayama lately.

Is it not possible to obtain the part numbers from FAST and order them? Or are you wanting newer non-OEM manufactured equivalent bolts?

Looks like it has been disabled already? I used the mobile app about 95% of the time so it's a shame that won't be available but it hadn't been working too well lately anyway

Are we there yet?

Sorry to hijack your thread @Tenny but I finally had some time so took the plunge and started removing the sound deadening in my R32. I used dry ice only. A couple of observations: Initially I was being conservative but it was obvious after a short period of time not to skimp. If the covering isn't complete and thick enough, it won't cool rapidly. Be patient. Not one of my traits but definitely required. Wait until you hear lots of cracks. I didn't need to hit it very often. Cover larger areas if possible. It seems that the more you get to contract and freeze simultaneously the easier it is to remove. Makes sense I guess. So what do people do next? I now see a lot of bare metal that I was intending on covering with sound deadening. Do people usually paint or apply a waterproof sealant? I am limited in terms of space, ventilation and ability so the simpler the better but that raw looking metal makes me nervous. Thanks Rob