DVSGOD

I dont think you actualy read my post ,go back and try again..

If you read the post,its sitting on a stand so yes this is still all in theory , much like A Rips HP Claim..its going into a r32 gtr.. No..Im just supplying the money only..

The word RIPS use here is From..When Rob started out on SDU many years ago the price was "from" but always ballooned out to more,that is not a quote,tread wisely. Where in the 600hp/7200rpm build does it mention "new" bits and a trust oil pump? Rob used to use all preloved/used factory bits and a new factoryoil pump.this could of changed though. A RB26 bottom end Will support 600hp no worrys mate, Id rather spend that money towards the head on the 26 and chuck in some poncams etc etc ,as Rob says ,its all in the tune at how reliable the engine will be and BTW you still need to find a head to put on this godlike block ,why doesnt he use the single cam one that came from the 30? oh thats right its a hybrid engine so cannotall be atributed to the 3 litre..it still needs a 26 or 25 head to work. Now you want to talk Nonsense..17g on a 1200 hp forged bottom end??You get this 1200 hp from where?Rips? haha rightttttttt.. Rob do you still use that shitty old rolling road dyno ? Iv seen dyno plots on a 300zx where there was 100kws atw difference between that dyno and a dynapak one..the dyno you use giving this higher reading. What sort of HP were the two fastest GTRs in NZ claiming? I know from someone working at St Hi Tec in auckland New Zealand that HT were round the 1200 hp mark.Does this bring it into perspective yet?(The car was using the ST dynapak for tuning) Once you drop under 10seconds on the 1/4 0ne second is a long way off and thousands more dollers so 2 seconds is f**kin miles away,there is weight difference here also granted but wake up and smell the coffee here guys. A surpposed 1200hp bottom end to get into the nines,its already been noted that you can get into the nines on 2530s a near 500- 600hp difference??? 1200 hp?um right. The thread starter wanted to know what strokerkit he would need to become a true Rh9 car..he also listed that "keep the 26" as an option.. My choice would be work on the 26 and save your money..2530s on a 26 are a beautiful set up for a street GTR.It has been said here that it has taken cars into the 9s .It wouldnt be my choice ,Id use a T04z,No matter what these so called "Internet Turbo Gurus" tell you ,that turbo will get you there and is very streetable if tuned correctly..My proof has already been revealed here in this thread ,2530s did it so the T04z will easily thats all that needs saying.

That blue 34 sounded f**king ugly at idle :blink:nothing like a nice throbbing lumpy idle of a well worked RB26 IMO, that thing sounds like its about to die lol but credit where due once the foot was put up her she did sound tasty. I checked the rips site,the stock internal bottom ends good for 600 hp/7200 rpm Starting from 5grand?? I could chuck 5k worth of aftermarket parts at a RB26 block and be better off? Its stock components they maybe good and up to it but you could get better and more for the same price? Forged RB30 Bott0m end from 17g ,wheres the head mate? I have a fully built 9 second 26 engine sitting here on a stand that cost me low 20k to build.fully prepped and balanced chock full of the best nismo,hks,jun etc etc parts , plus a fully esembled head that has been ported shimmed and has tomei cams etc etc.back toogeather waiting for a manifold and turbo to arrive.. You havent built a head for your forged bottom end yet..let alone all the other bits like fueling,ecu ,cooling etc etc. Other than a bit more torque to get the bigger turbo moving I think its a waste of money when you could chuck less at a RB26 and get the same result a 9 second street car. If we could compare doller for doller Id have more left over and dollers to spend elsewhere on my car.. I havent had any perk jobs done either from mates and piss.. Credit to you Rips though..you are a good salesman and the poms seem to love your work Oh,these HP claims.,they are all a bit iffy on a rolling road dyno,have you got dynapack graphs to compare your work?

What sort of rear bar is that mate?

This is correct,r32 GTR is the fastest over the 1/4 and 0-100. There is no opinion,it is fact. Also when you start on down the mod rd a r34 gtr will need more out put from it to match a modded r32 GTR. It does not matter that the r34 has more advanced steering/suspension/braking systems from factory. Once you start to heavily modify a GTR you will upgrade the suspension , brakes etc etc,so a heavily Modded R32 will have all its handling amd braking taken care of. Bank on at least extracting an extra 50kws from the same 2.6 engine for a r34 gtr to even to match a r32 neck to neck.That means more stress on the engine plus a far bigger budget. To make it simple for you. A 400kw atw r32 vs a 400kw atw r34 ,the r32 will be the faster car based on the drivers having the exact same skill leval. Said r34 would need more power to compete.Dragging that extra lard around has its price you know

7.57 @ 305 km yesterday

What cams are you running GTR97 ?

On a more advanced engine e.g Fully rebuilt , cams/head work and tune the lagg can be taken care of through playing with cam timing , while still not loosing any of the mid range top end punch these puppies deliver.Just take it to a tuner who knows the fine tuning insides and outs of the RB26 and you will be very rewarded.Should be able to see full boost 22 -24 psi at 4500 rpm or just under but they will start pulling hard much lower than this so are still a very streetable turbo set up. Alot of the gtr forums I visit from around the world rate these huffers above 2530s for there response and big delivery of power in the top end. On a fairly stock engine Id put a gtss or the 2860R -7 turbo upgrade ahead of these unless of course you are taking it further down the track,these are purfect for a hard tuned street machine. On a fully worked engine these turbs are good for 380 - 410 awkws Just my opinion though.

Cheers for your replys guys And as Steve _gts4 has rightfully pointed out the -5 is in fact the bigger of the two I got my info from here http://www.turbos.co.nz/garretttake2.html but it seems they have the write up on each one round the wrong way

Hey guys. Just wondering if anyone is running either of these garrett turbos on there gtrs? How do they perform ? Does the larger GT2860R- 7s have issues with shuffle down low and how responsive are they? e.g when do they start pulling from and when do they get onto full boost ,say 1.4 - 1.6 bar. Here is where im at,I have an engine thats built for a solid 700hp with fueling to match,running power fc as my computor. My goal is high 300kws or even low 400kws at the hubs (hub dyno) would these turbos do this?Iv read that the GT2860R - 5s are good for 360hp apeice with almost factory response in spool rate and the GT2860R- 7s are rated to 400hp each , now thats on paper but what are you guys getting with these tubbies? A single is not an option for me at this stage and I want to keep with bolt on low mounts. Any help will be greatly apreciated

Agree

If shes pushing 366kws to all fours youed be lucky to see 400kws at the rears if you pulled the fuse.Someones pulling ya leg mate.Still sounds a nice set up , should post up some pics , good luck with the sale

BeeR 2

Cheers Rezz , Im after the Group A (Japan) look , Iv already a du luck body kit now just want to inhance the guards some more with out ruining the lines of the car. Do you know of any other companys like this?or a D-MAX supplier in Aussie? like this BeeR fender kit but its not made anymore