JCMarshall_Law

It LOOKS ok, but you will have to see it in the flesh, give it a good look over and take for a test drive. Then you may be able to form some opinion on whether it is a good price or not. Impossible to tell from what is written there.

Murcury are not suspension specalists, they get all their alligment / set up work done down the road at fulcurm, they are quite happy to fit suspension parts though. In my opinion it would be better just to go to fulcurm in the first place.

These threads really get me worked up, I just can't believe someone would deliberatly do that to someones car. If you find them, give them two options - pay for the damage or put a shifter into their knee caps - I would. My advice ask everyone in the street if they saw anything, if they have gone on a bit of a spree, chances are someone saw something. Good luck, I feel for you.

Does anyone have a copy of the curent Australian Design Rules, can you post it somewhere so we can download it! I'm not really keen on paying $30 for a CD from the department of transport. Cheers.

Just buy an xforce turbo back exhaust from ebay for $650 and fit it yourself. Thats what I did and I almost gurantee that it performs as well as any of the name brand jap kits from the cat back. If you want to spend a bit more just get a good quality split dump pipe and high flow cat (although the XForce cat is not to bad). Try getting a custom split dump pipe made up - it will cost you an arm and a leg. My 2c

Different injectors will have different flow rates at the same duty cycles so - yes you will need a retune. Although you will not need to start from scratch so it should not be anything like the cost of a full initial tune.

Bring it on, a R34 GTR ute would be sweet. Talk about a clash of cultures!

My money pit.

Thats incredible. First time I ever saw a top fueler run I was standing about 4m away at the start line at willobank, both launched and I thought my whole body had been samwiched between two massive vibrating sanders. My eyes went completly blury, I was phisically pushed back 1/2 meter. then there was the sound - completly out of this world. I stood there in a strange state - a mix between completly dumbfounded and laughing like a school kid. That is something I'll never forget. Both cars went to post sub 5 second passes. There is nothing like a full power run from two top fuelers! If you have never seen the top fuelers live - go do it!

Use the search. There has been countless threads on this topic.

So who does everyone recommend to get it professionally done?

Looks eaiser to install the rear... unfortunatly it is not. You need to remove the undertray / sump guard and the radius rods. Not really a hard job at all just takes longer. Just make sure your car is level when you do it otherwise the car will shift when you take the radius rods out and they are a bit of a bugger to get back in. The car will shift slightly when you do it no matter what you do so you will neet a block of 2b4, a lever (1/2 bar) and a mate to help. It will make sence what to do when you get under there. I installed mine with all 4 wheels on ramps (level, with all weight on wheels). Someone may know if it is ok to do it with the front of the car jacked up (both front wheels off the ground obviously). Without having done it, I can't really see how that will be a problem, although, the instructions did at least say to tighten everything up at normal ride height. Don't take my words as gospel check the instructions. Just one more thing to remember - hand brake works on the rear wheels only!!!

Hey Sydneykid, do you use the adjustment avaliable in the standard suspension components for camber and castor or do you go with camber / castor kits. I'm most interested in R33 GTST if you know. I guess my question is: can I get a decent track spec allignment from the standard components, or at least a compromise considering the car is a daily driver.

My girlfriend likes being driven around in the line - that's about the extent of their relationship. So how do the female skyline enthusists go with their boyfriends?

No doubt, sydneykid will post a reply to this, but since I'm here I might as add my 2c. The system is failsafe so your rear wheels are not going to flail around. I've taken the fuse out for a run at a track day with no serious effects. Although on my way home (fuse out) all od a sudden I needed 15degrees of steering to get the car to go straight which went away 100m down the road, so there must be some movement allowed there. I'm going with one of GTRgeoff's lock bars, if you really want to remove the HICAS just spend the $150. Can't wait to get it Geoff!.

I've added a couple of pics of my setup. Like I said earlier, it seems you can turn the link assembly around at the top (see my scribbles on the pics). Note: I have not read the answer to this question on the whiteline page, I might change my mind after I read that. EDIT: Just read the post on the whiteline webpage, it makes perfect sense, seems I was right, you just need to swap the links between the sides of the car, not sure why but I'm sure it will make sense when I give it a try. Thanks to those who gave a hand .

Yeah, I saw a purple GTR, prolly yours. No, I did not go through insurance, excess was $1400 and that's how much DMD cost me, I prefered to not loose the rating.

Timing is not "hand clicking" it is electronic and accurate to 1/100th second. That is a bloody good time for a non turbo unmodified R31 - if it is real.

The higher friction pads on the front are a good idea - is there any other way to change the brake bias on the R33? I remember whenever I drove the UQ FSAE the car felt best to me when I dialed in a lot of front brake bias - probably be a good thing to try on the skyline. Probably an indication of my driving style as well. The tyres I was running were falcon ziex 326 that were just touching the wear pattern on the front (3-4mm rear), so they are about as crap as you can get. I'm in the market for a good set of tyres at the moment. I'm not sure about the september sprint day, I'm heading overseas for a holiday in a couple of months so I'm trying to limit the cash I'm spending right now.

Very true - I'm under no delusions that my lap times could not be improved by learning to drive a car properly on a race track. Unfortunatly I don't have anyone to teach me what I'm doing wrong or what I should do differently - I'm basically learning by trial and error (spending time in the kitty litter). I never really understood the significance of heel-toe throtle control under braking untill after the track day yesterday - I thought to myself - what was happening when i cornered (requiring a downshift): jump on brakes, car squirms around, try to just stay off the ABS, begin turn in and pull clutch out --> instant oversteer --> leaving my speed on the tarmac in the form of black skid marks. So I'm going to have to work on my turn in and down shifts. Seems simple to those who know. Any tips on learing how to drive - books to read, courses to do, practice exercises? Sydneykid: Good to know a R33GTST is current NSW Supersprint champ - gives me more hope.

Got 2nd hand one through a bodywork shop in Briz $120. Just ring everyone in the yellow pages.

Yeah, I think I should have hardened up the front sway bar and softened the shocks a bit but like I said, I did not really bother playing with the setup (just left as I had it - except shocks) because of the rain. I did set the front shocks harder because it was oversteering. But I was figuring the oversteer was more to do with my driving style, I was getting compression lock up into corners that brought on the oversteer - I'll have to work on matching rpm and wheel speed. Incedently I found a great setup for drift! GTRgeoff, that HICAS lock bar I'm planning on fitting is one of yours - how they going? All things equal, the R32 seem to handle better (get around a race track faster) than the r33 - is that a fair comment.

Besides change the driver

Damm R33 GTST's what do you have to do to get them to handle ?!?!?

Had the track day today in the pooring rain so I gave up with any serious playing with the suspension anyway - just had fun sliding around. Bit of a bummer, I was hoping to post some decent times. Bit hard to compare in the wet but I those adjustable sway bars made the car a nicer too drive - Under / oversteer seemed a bit more balanced - set shocks to hardest, front swar bars 2nd hardest of 4 settings, set rear hardest of 2 settings (ingnoring intermediate settings - links in different positions in either arm). Oversteered under braking (bit of a problem with compression braking), could be made understeer around corners, generally felt a bit more predictable. No prob, I had fun anyway which was my main aim. So I'll have a bit of time to add the last few bits to my suspension setup before the next track day: 1) Hicas lock bar 2) Pineapples (HD sub frame bushes) in the rear 3) Decent tyres!!! 4) Allignment 5) HD (stiffer) springs? Whould it be worth getting stiffer springs for my setup? (stock height with aftermarket shocks, swaybars, etc)