JCMarshall_Law

2003 University of Queensland Yeah, we burned cash that year, we found the most expensive everything and used that. The uni really wanted us to win so they gave us a blank cheque. We did have the best car by a long shot - first in acceleration and enduro and first placed Austrlian car! I own the car now, I bought it off the team last year minus the engine and few other bits, see my thread here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=0#entry1528749

I've done it on a couple of motorbike manifolds (CBR600 for Formula SAE cars). HPC coatings in Brendale, QLD did ours. It is hard to believe we got any Hp gain but they are still going strong after two years of 13,000 rpm rev limit driving, not a hint of flaking or rusting of the metal underneath (inside or out). We are pretty sure it helped the heat radiation, the exhaust manifold was less than 200mm from the drivers back, obviously there was a couple of thermal sheilds (sheets of ally and a carbon fiber seat) between the driver and the manifold. Overall I think it is pretty expensive for the gains and I would not be doing it unless someones gives me $100,000 to build a race car again.

Just wondering who your comparing against, their labour prices are pretty average for a performance workshop. I don't understand why people need a performance workshop to change the fluids anyway. Procedure for changing engine oil at a performance workshop: 1) remove drain plug 2) unscrew old filter, 3) screw in new filter 4) screw in drain plug 5) pour oil in the top 6) charge $115 Procedure for changing engine oil at a average joe's workshop: 1) remove drain plug 2) unscrew old filter, 3) screw in new filter 4) screw in drain plug 5) pour oil in the top 6) charge $30

I buy my motul fluids from Mercury motorsport because 1) their prices are pretty good 2) I live down the road. But I do the servicing all myelf (all oils (engine, box, diff etc), all filters, brakes (fluid, pads, rotors etc), spark plugs, coolant etc. It isa really easy job for someone who knows how to turn a spanner - look at the tutorials section if your lost. Go buy the genuine Nissan engine oil filters from Westpoint Nissan in Indoorroopilly, they are less than $10 and they are far better quality than the Valvoline or ryco filters and the have the proper non return valves.

Is it eaiser just to unbolt the reo (2 bolds either side), and the bolts either side near the guards. The whole lot comes away. I have not done it but I have recently had a new bar fitted and the group who did it took the whole lot off then unbolted the bar from the reo.

Thursday nights are fun when someone organises them - meet up, have a chat, go for a spirited drive, park somewhere, have a chat, go home. JB hi fi do a perfectly good job with alarms and not too expensive, the bloke who installs them at the Kedron JB does heaps and knows what he is doing. Enjoy owning the line!

Got the car back from DMD image at Rocklea, overall I'm happy with the outcome (except for the depleted bank account) My thoughts: - They did a vey good job matching the factory colour (metalic dark grey / black). - Respray on the bonnet is very good, unless you know what your looking for you would never know. - The bar / grill (R33 GTR style) looks good and fits well, although it scratched very eaisly - prolly because of soft paint still. Paint and finish on that is good as well. Quite sturdy for a fibreglass bar. Included all the mesh on the openings which was a good supprise - looks very cool. - They did not do a great job on refitting the guard liners - a few zip ties were used there. But no big deal I did know (and they did tell me) the factory liners would not match up to the new bar perfectly. - They did not use the best quality indicators but they look fine. I was led to believe they were using factory GTR indicators. - The communication and organisation was not that great, but I can't really complain my car got finished pretty much on time. - One thing I was a bit pissed off about was the quote I was given when I first took the car in. I thought Iasked for a quote to fix the front end damage and replace the bar with a GTR bumper. I was quoted $300 for the bonnet and $850 for the bumper. When I went to drop the car off, I find out this did not include the the reo (extra $130) and Grill (extra $120). So when you get a quote make sure you know what that includes. - Only other gripe - they don't accept EFTPOS or Credit card! I was only informed an hour before I was supposed to pick up the car! Finding $1400 cash on short notice was not that easy. Like I said, overall I'm happy, the car looks sweet. So I would recommend DMD - just make sure you spell out what you want and make sure you know what they are giving you. Also, talk with Doan (owner) directly - it will hopefully save a lot of confusion. I'll add pics when I get them.

I'm 23, rating 2, 95 GTST insured for $20k, comprehensive insurance with just cars cost me $1300 when I paid it last september. I'm hoping it comes down more this september.

Modify the standard terminal connections to fit the bigger, more common battery terminal size, that is what I did. Just a little bending is required. You could always cut the old ones off and fit the clamp type ones. Go look at the catalogue at supercheap / autobarn to see what rating battery the car needs (can't remember off the top of my head). Then get something at least that big.

Like everyone is saying: 1) go for a manual - you will appreciate actually "driving" the car 2) save (or borrow) a couple more grand and you will open up a whole other market of cars to choose from. 3) DO NOT buy the first, or second or third car you see. Even if you think you have found the deal of the centuary and you can't miss it, YOU HAVEN'T !!! There is always a better deal, you have to weigh up how long you want to wait. I have bought a few cars now and I had finally learnt my lesson by the time I bought my current R33, I looked at 11 R33s before I bought one and the wait was worth it. 4) If you have any slight hint of a thought that you might want to modify it, then buy one that is already modified. There are many good modified cars already out there and you will save yourself thousands in the long run. Stuff the cleen slate idea, my bank account is a cleen slate and I'm a long way from fininishing my car.

Well the car was droped off at DMD image at Rocklea this morning. Thanks heaps to all those who replied to this thread - It was a great help. I got quotes from Camerons, DMD and Shipstone at Wilston. I went with DMD because they had everything in stock already and I could just say "I want that, and that, oh, oh, that looks good, I'll take that". If it was an insurance job I would have gone with shipstone because they would prolly do the best job - all new standard parts from nissan. Only problem, the quote was $3800!!! Around $2500 more than DMD and Cameron's. I'm getting a GTR style bar and Grill and the bonnet needs to be re-sprayed. I really hope they do a good job, I really hate sh1t looking bodykits. Should be done by Wednesday, I'll post up the final result.

Yep, that is one of the features I really miss from the old SAU. I hope we can get it back.

I seem to have fixed the problem, I just played around with the power connections to the starter motor and gave them a quick cleen - have not had a problem since (3 days later). Thanks all for your help, if this fourm did not exist I may have payed $200 for someone in a workshop to do the same thing. Cheers, Pat.

I thought of doing that but then I thought that the startor mortor is not engaged unless it is being cranked. I'll give it a go if it worked for you.

Thanks for the replies, few things for me to try. I forgot to mention that it used to do it when my battery was low, so BBQ's reply is sounding like its on the right track.

EDIT 3/8/05: Problem fixed for now - see post 12 below. Been having a bad run with the line, Had a minor bingle about 2 weeks ago, car was running fine after (only front bumper was rooted) so the car was sitting in my garage and not started for 1 1/2 weeks. Go to start it yesterday and battery was dead, no prob, it was on the way out for a while and I already had a new one. So I replace the battery and go to start it and when I hold the key in the start position I get this loud Click, Click, Click, Click, Click, Click, noise at about 5 Hz, comming from the somewhere up front. The motor does not turn over at all. When I hold start the voltage drops considerably - I know the battery is good, besides I also tried to start the car with the car jumpered to another running car. All this sounds like a rooted starter motor to me, but before I spend craploads on a mechanic trying to find out what is wrong - has anyone had a similar problem? Does anyone know what it couls be? Any help greatly appreciated.

My car still looks like a drift pig with the front bar missing so she is a little embarrassed and would prefer to stay in the garage. Have a good one.

I'm running, I put myself in the sub 60 min 12 km group with a team from work. I'm just aiming to do it in the 60 mins - I'm not planning on breaking any records.

Edit 25/8/05: Pics added, see post 15 EDIT 15/8/05: Got the car back 12/11/05 - all is well. See post 12 for details. EDIT 5/8/06: Car booked in at DMD image - will post final result when I get it back next week. Well it had to happen, finally pranged the skyline. More pissed off that I was doing something stupid at the time which resulted in me nudging a pole on a trafic island- I got what I deserved (as some kindly passing motorist informed me). I actually got off easy - front bumper is rooted, so is the bolt on metal bumper underneath and there is a small ding in the bonnet. No lights, radiators or frame were touched. So now I've got a good excuse to buy a aftermarket front bar! Can anyone give me the names of bodywork shops that, can supply aftermarket bumpers and do good quality painting / fitting? I'm thinking of getting a 400r front bar or one of those UAS front bars, any suggestions. Also if anyone knows of a good smash repairer in briz that can repair dings without painting could you please let me know, it would be greatly appreciated. Finally if anyone is wrecking a S1 R33 GTST, I'll take the metal bumper that bolts to the frame. The car is fully insured, but I think this will be eaiser / cheaper to fix myself. Any responses would be greatly appreciated, it is so depressing seeing my pride and joy looking like a drift pig. :(:(

Takes a lot of power to spool up a turbo and they operate at around 80,000 - 120,000 rpm, no conventional 12V electric motor will do it. get anti-lag

Yep I've got same problem, and have not fixed it yet - I would like to know what others have done. I found out at a track day when fuel poured out of the filler on left turns with a full tank - it is no prob for normal driving,

Purchased October '04' 1995 S1.5 GTST (full options) Black, manual, excellent condition, Stock apart from AMG 17" wheels, bilstein rear struts, nizmo front struts, stereo, $19500 I looked at 12 R33's before I bought this one, it was the best (and most expensive) by far. Not that easy to find a black, manual R33 in as good condition as this one.

You can make a inline 6 stronger than a V6 or vise versa - just add more metal in the right spot and you will have a stronger engine. Note: I'm talking about the the block only and for the same materials, casting techniques, etc, etc Probably more intersting question to ask which is stronger for a given capacity, stroke and block weight. The V block could prolly be made stronger because they can be made far more compact than a inline, although the extra forces induced by the unbalanced V configuration may outweigh the advantages. If I was putting my money on one or the other I would go V6.

Who sells those oils?

I have a series 1.5 - series 2 engine with series 1 body Series 1.5 had more options that series 1.