JCMarshall_Law

this has been covered 1000's of times but since we are here here is the fuel usage from my last couple of tanks: 465km from 56.88L --> 12.16 L/100km 423km from 52.97L --> 12.52 L/100km I have had as high as 17 L/100km for a track day and lowest was around 11.5 L/100km when they were all highway kms. Average is around 12.6 L/100km. On Optimax, 1995 R33 GTST with turbo back exhaust and pod filter thats it. To measure the fuel consumption I set the odometer to zero when I fill the tank then measure how much fuel it takes when I next fill up.

post this in the Japan section, you might get better responses.

Yeah, Ive had a couple of sets of headers coated by HPC coatings in Brendale. They know what they are doing. Top quality but not cheap, something like $200 for a set of 4-2-1 custom CBR600 headers.

I know this has been asked before but I could not find anything in a search. Could anyone tell me if 6 3/4" splits (the ones in the link below) will fit in the front doors of a R33 S1.5 GTST. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-SaVfQJa0Tkb/c...00&I=113KFCP705 Can anyone tell me what speakers do fit in the front doors in the standard position? Thanks in advance.

Check this thread I started it has heaps of info about the Xforce exhausts. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...haust+from+ebay Basically they are good value exhaust systems.

might help if you post the dyno chart.

I know the feeling all too well 30 seconds before reading this thread I was thinking about the parts I have in the mail. I am constantly thinking about things to do to my car. It takes up a lot of time at work when I should be doing something constructive. Then there is SAU - bloody hell if only work knew how much time wasted on this forum. I doing by best to just limit it to lunch time (like now). Unfortunatly I have not yet found a cure for this cruel mental affliction I have aquired.

Good fun was had by all, even if I did take the senic route through surfers to get back to Brisbane - I knew I should have followed someone out of that carpark.

Don't just lower the car, the camber / castor settings will get screwed up, get castor / camber kits and lowered springs / shocks (or if your keen to spend the cash - a set of coil overs). Whiteline works package does a good job and has everything you need. BTW: Adjustable Coil overs are great but it is not a case of just pressing a button to adjust them - there is a bit of work and know how involved (if you want to do it properly) so you will find you will not be doing that much adjustment even if you do have coil overs.

Thanks for that Sydneykid, lucky because I was thinking of just taking out the fuse when I wanted to remove the HICAS - guess I'll have to get the lock kit.

Short answer is no.

I'm almost certian HICAS is fail safe, so the power dies (fuse removed) the steering will be locked - although I have heard it can still move slightly so locking pins are a good idea.

I have mine for a while now and I take to track days about 3 times a year, personally I think the 33 is a great car for daily driving and a few fun track days. Just spend $1000 on the whiteline handling kit and polyurethane (spelling?) bushes all round. Get decent brake pads and keep the car in good condition and you will have a really fun and reliable track car. When I bought mine, I was thinking I would spend money on getting more power but after my first track day my cash has gone into handling - much more rewarding I think. Having said that I still plan on doing the intercooler, Power FC, boost controller. So far I have got Bilstien shocks and springs (damping adjustable up front), front and rear strut braces, whiteline swaybars, polyurethane radius rod bushes, 17" wheels with 235 falcons and bendex ultimate pads all round. Engine mods are just the basic exhaust, pod filter and grounded boost solenoid to give 7psi. All this makes a fun track car and I keep up with skylines with 40kW more power but standard suspension. I'm just planning on getting a new set of dba4000 front rotors and pineapples (rear subframe bushes) then I'll move onto the engine.

Basically back pressure is a bad thing - higher back pressure = more work engine has to do to pump the exhaust gasses out of the engine. Ever wondered why drag cars don't have any exhaust? The problem is most of the time you do need an exhaust to put the exhaust gasses where they are not going to be a hazard. This is where exhaust tuning or "harmonics" comes into play - by properly tuning an exhaust you can avoid back pressure waves initiated by the rapidly expanding exhaust gasses bouncing of the walls and other exhaust pulses. This topic gets really theoretically heavy and I still have not found any easy to use sources of info for exhaust tuning, most exhaust experts just call it a black art.

Ok, people have come up with the same sort of probs as I thought of. I think I'll just build the side pipe - it's not really much extra work, just that a side pipe will have to be supported at the exit i.e. I'll have to bolt some bracket to the car. The dump pipe could have just bolted on and used the existing supports on the front pipe because its weight would be minimal. I'mm post pictures when its done. BTW: I know a couple of people who go to the effort of putting on the side pipe for track days and they still say its worth it. Its really only a 10 min job that can be done at the track with the car on ramps. Anyway. if it does not drop my track times by 20 seconds - at least it will sound cool

Track day dump pipe Hey all, I’m planning on making up a dump pipe for track days. Most of these type of dump pipes I’ve seen connect to the front pipe and exit out the side of the car before the rear wheel. I’m wondering if anyone sees any problem with just making a dump pipe that dumps straight off the front pipe to the ground underneath the car. Just makes it heaps easier to make. See the pics. I’d really appreciate anyone telling me about any experience they have had with this idea.

I'll give this group buy till Thursday 9th 5:00pm, if we don't get interest by then I'll just be giving up on this idea and I'll be going in with the NSW group buy.

Paul, Does your car spend more time on a hoist than it does on the road?

Geez man, I wish I had your sort of problems with my car!

I'd say that is not a great call, R32 GTR's are generally "to much time and hassel" just owning one, so I would say you will save a LOT of "to much time and hassel" if you get a GTR checked out by a KNOWLEDGEABLE mechanic before you buy it.

Hell yeah, I've been waiting for another Thursday night cruise, Will be there!

Sorry d00dz, forgot to mention NSW GB in this thread, I did in the QLD thread.

Anyone interested from QLD see the link below (the thread was not getting enough air play in the QLD section) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...209#post1381209 If your going to reply, please do so in the above thread, not this one.

Hell yeah! So does that mean you are willing to go in on the group buy, and / or are you are you willing to do the purchasing and have people pick them up from your place? If so, that is sweet. Come on people $209 for one of these amps is an absolute bargin, you cannot get anything like for the cash. Who is interested? Interested so far: 1) Myself 2) Yotis 3) ? 4) ? 25det: Can you confirm that we only need 4 people for a group buy with a trader account and can you confirm the price.

I don't own one but I have looked into them a bit, By all accounts you can do a good job of tuning the car with them but they are lacking a few more advance features that would be good, such as: (please correct me if I'm wrong) - No onboard datalogging - you have to pay extra (a lot extra) for the laptop / PC program for tuning and datalogging - No map sensor, - No traction control - no auxillery power relay which can be triggered by various engine parameters such as RPM, inj duty etc. (these are usually used for water spray, NOS systems etc) - The fuel map resolution is not real good. But like was said in an eairler post for $1100 they are great value and will just about everything you need to do in a street car. If you want features buy the Motec M800 they are brilliant bits of gear, they will everything you could dream of. Most (all?) of te V8 teams use the M800. I have had a bit of experence with the M4 pro and even those units are excellent - prob is they are definatly not plug and play units (like the PFC) and you pay throught the nose for them.