JCMarshall_Law

My bad,

This thread is far less gay now, it has got me thinking. I hope I have not dug myself into a hole.

Notice that I have not said that it will damage your turbo just that having no BOV will cause the compressor to operate way out of its efficiency range during gear changes, The main reason I have not said that damage will occur is because like aktive said, I could not give any example of a turbo that failed due to flutter. Still everything I said was true. Although I can give a reason why flutter could cause damage. This is just a theory and will remain so untill proven / disproven. As already said flutter is caused by the compressor operating out of its efficiency range, ie: the flow is far too low for the blades to be operating efficiently. A similar thing to cativation in liquid pumps occurs, at such low flow (throttle virtually closed) and with the turbine still spinning upwards of 20000rpm, the fluid (air) is stalling over the blades. You can hear a similar thing when a helicopter makes a hard turn or a sudden stop, a loud chopping sound, (much louder than the engine or normal blade noise). Anyway, this stalling over the blades will result in high frequency loads being applied to the turbine blades and the blades will vibrate. It is fairly obvious that that would be a bad thing, causing bearing wear and accelerating cracking of the turbine. So there is one idea, feedback welcome. If you drive your car like a racing car all the time it would prob be an advantage not having a BOV, ie keeping the pressure in the intake during gear changes, the turbo would not have to do the work to repressurise the system when the gear is re-engaged, and the short shift time would not allow sufficient time for the turbine to spool down. In the end, the engineers who designed this stuff are very intelegent people, so I usually think before dicking with things "why did they do it that way". Plenty of people like the sound, so if you think you know what your doing, go for it.

Go for it man, its your car. Just telling you whats happening.

I never said "boost" leak at idle, I just said "leak" at idle, and I did not say 'leak" was a bad thing (see above). Just that if you say the word "leak" enough times it becomes a rude word. Maybe I should have said "air bleed". Meh...

That may help but.. It is possible that the stock BOV will still leak at idle at there is quite a low pressure in the plenum at idle which causes the BOV to open slightly. Soon at you open the throtle, the pressure in the plenum rises and the BOV closes, no problem when the leak is plumed back after the air flow meter. Someone with more experence may be able to confirm / correct this.

BTW: I have not tried it.

It will work, just try it, you will get that "fully sick" sound, it will also run like shite, bogging down between gears and backfiring like a biatch, Stock BOV's leak at idle, so it will prolly idle like poo. Personally I'd rather have my car running properly. Just get a pod filter and that should be loud enough for you and anyone standing nearby.

This thread is gay. The "flutter" sound (not to be confused with the sound from a sequetial BOV) is compressor surge, it happens when the compressor is operating severly out of its efficiency range, it is not a good thing. So when I hear a car drive past fluttering between gears, I dont think "fully sick man", I think "that car is set up like shit, and that tool thinks it is great" If you want it to be louder, 1)block up the BOV (causes the compressor to operate at essentially zero flow when changing gears) ie; way out of its efficiency range, 2) get a pod filter - stock box is designed to muffle the sound, 3) FMIC - larger volume of compressed air for the compressor to work against (at zero flow) during gear changes. All that should reault in a longer louder flutter to tell people your car is fu(ked. Sorry if I have offended anyone.

Hey NISMO, that is a great AVTAR, I can just watch it for hours, LOL.

I'm anal about my car, I try never to park it outside, if I have to, I put a car cover on it. My main criteria when looking for a new house recently was "must have a lockup garage... that is all" Leaving it out in the sun / elements just accelerates, rust, paint fade, scratches, risk of being keyed, deterioration of the rubber and interior. Plus, if you have a dark colour car you will be continuously washing it.

You may need to re-word that, sounds like something is slipping in the drive train. failing coil packs - can result in misfiring (more likely at high RPM), crapy idle, loss in power. Strange, have you noticed a change in the other gears?

I got a Apexi power intake from www.perfectrun.com for $120 delivered in 3 days from Japan, the type that bolts right up to the AFM, no adaptors required, all gaskets and brackets supplied. Really good value and an excellent product.

Can't remember, but like I said it was a top end (Australian standard) mongoose alarm, so it had at least a 2 point immobiliser. Anyone else had their car stolen / broken into with a secuerty ststem installed?

Good idea for a thread, I try to be the first person to actually answer it. A mate of mine had a very nicly done up VL turbo with a top of the line Mongoose alarm system, from memory it cost up around $600. We parked the car at the Aspley hypermarket (in Briz), we walked inside and I realised I had forgotten my wallet. We walk back and got about 50m from the car and saw a guy sitting in the front seat fiddling around under the steering column, (no alarm going off). He only see us running torwards him about 10m away, so we grabed him and "asked", "what the Fu(k are you doing", this was the funny bit, it was a fair bit of a struggle as you may imagine, he was trying his best to avoid being beaten to death, he managed to wimper "I was just looking!" He managed to get away (we did not chase, don't ask why), because he had a big overcoat on, he twisted out of my mates grip, as he only had hold of the overcoat. What we managed to see as he got away (as the coat was half pulled of him) was all the tools he had under the coat in special pockets, just like in the movies with a dude in new york selling watches. He was really well set up, obviously professional. So if they really want your car they can get it. I still think Mongoose are a good brand, I have a similar model in my R33. Before you ask, we were certian we set the alarm, I remember thinking as he set it, "I wish I had remote central locking". I had a shitty NA VL at the time. We still don't know how he got around it, we assumed he was hotwiring it or sorting out the immobliser as we got there. My mate was very lucky, so was the theif.

I try to be the first person to actually answer this thread, A mate of mine had a very nicly done up VL turbo with a top of the line Mongoose alarm system, from memory it cost up around $600. We parked the car at the Aspley hypermarket (in Briz), we walked inside and I realised I had forgotten my wallet. We walk back and got about 50m from the car and saw a guy sitting in the front seat fiddling around under the steering column, (no alarm going off). He only see us running torwards him about 10m away, so we grabed him and "asked", "what the Fu(k are you doing", this was the funny bit, it was a fair bit of a struggle as you may imagine, he was trying his best to avoid being beaten to death, he managed to wimper "I was just looking!" He managed to get away (we did not chase, don't ask why), because he had a big overcoat on, he twisted out of my mates grip, as he only had hold of the overcoat. What we managed to see as he got away (as the coat was half pulled of him) was all the tools he had under the coat in special pockets, just like in the movies with a dude in new york selling watches. He was really well set up, obviously professional. So if they really want your car they can get it. I still think Mongoose are a good brand, I have a similar model in my R33. Before you ask, we were certian we set the alarm, I remember thinking as he set it, "I wish I had remote central locking". I had a shitty NA VL at the time. We still don't know how he got around it, we assumed he was hotwiring it or sorting out the immobliser as we got there. My mate was very lucky, so was the theif.

I try to be the first person to actually answer this thread, A mate of mine had a very nicly done up VL turbo with a top of the line Mongoose alarm system, from memory it cost up around $600. We parked the car at the Aspley hypermarket (in Briz), we walked inside and I realised I had forgotten my wallet. We walk back and got about 50m from the car and saw a guy sitting in the front seat fiddling around under the steering column, (no alarm going off). He only see us running torwards him about 10m away, so we grabed him and "asked", "what the Fu(k are you doing", this was the funny bit, it was a fair bit of a struggle as you may imagine, he was trying his best to avoid being beaten to death, he managed to wimper "I was just looking!" He managed to get away (we did not chase, don't ask why), because he had a big overcoat on, he twisted out of my mates grip, as he only had hold of the overcoat. What we managed to see as he got away (as the coat was half pulled of him) was all the tools he had under the coat in special pockets, just like in the movies with a dude in new york selling watches. He was really well set up, obviously professional. So if they really want your car they can get it. I still think Mongoose are a good brand, I have a similar model in my R33. Before you ask, we were certian we set the alarm, I remember thinking as he set it, "I wish I had remote central locking". I had a shitty NA VL at the time. We still don't know how he got around it, we assumed he was hotwiring it or sorting out the immobliser as we got there. My mate was very lucky, so was the theif.

I dont understand why you have to be an asshole about it, he did not claim he had a 7.2 second R34 GTR, before he learned to walk, it was a simple genuine question. Just because this is mostly an anonymous forum does not give you a permit to be a toss. Live and let live. My opinion on the barganing thing: Dealer:bargan till you think they are going to cry, then give them your name and number and ask them to call you when they have a better offer. It really works, a sale is better than no sale. Private: basically the same thing, just try to be more friendly about it. Car dealers have huge markups but even when you bargan with all your skills it is unlikely that you will get a better deal than if you wait for a private sale to come up.

I just started a thread related to this topic if your interested. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...399#post1146399 Its on the idea of thermo fans for intercoolers.

So what do you reckon? Thermo fan on a intercooler. I've just got the stock cooler on my GTST33 and I know they have problems with heat soak when on boost for extended periods. As far as I can see a thermo fan could completly eliminate this problem. As well as helping the convection cooling of the core and therefore further reducing the air charge temperature. Also, if you have got a aftermarket FMIC in front of the radiator (or a GTR), a thermo fan could help prevent overheating problems by forcing more air through the cooler onto the airconditioning radiator and engine ratiator. Just a 12inch davies craig (or similar) would be sweet. Next prob would be how to switch it, it would be perfect to have it on when on boost and a few second delay after you come off boost, so maybe a thermo switch in the air flow on the hot side of he cooler with some sort of delay for the switch off. Prolly not much of an advantage on a aftermarket cooler, on cars I have driven with decent coolers, the outlet side (cold side) of the coolers are supprisingly cool even after a flogging. But like I said may still be worth it for the overall heat rejection of the engine, or on the small stock cooler to reduce heat soak. Any ideas?

I've got an Apexi power intake pod filter, excellent bit of gear, they sound wicked as well, definatly recomended. I've seen "Independant" tests that show they filter better than most of the other brands, way better than the HKS foam one anyway.

I'd like to start this thread as a list of where we can look / go to buy parts, or more importantly, performance parts for skylines in Queensland. I'm supprised this thread does not exist already, please direct me to it if there is one, search did not find anything. I'll get things started with a few I have found (not necessarly recomending); 1) NENGUN Performance - www.nengun.com 2) PERFECT RUN - www.perfectrun.com.au 3) ASIAN AUTO SPARES - SLacks Creek QLD, PH: 3208 0133 4) AUTOBARN - www.autobarn.com.au 5) CES RACING SYSTEMS - Meadowbrook QLD, PH: 3200 2333 6) EBAY - www.ebay.com.au (I avoid if possible) 7) MSI Racing - www.msiracing.com.au 8) Hardcore Racing Components - Slacks Creek QLD, ph: (07) 3299 4344 9) Extreme Motor Sports Pty Ltd. - Northgate, ph: (07) 3630 4377 10) Advanced Performance Centre - Underwood QLD, ph: (07) 3341 7223 11) Mercury Motorsport Pty Ltd - Wilston QLD, ph: (07) 3352 3363 12) Trackside Performance & Mechanical - Brendale QLD ph: (07) 3205 7707 13) Millennium Motorsports - Tingalpa QLD ph: (07) 3348 2755 14) 999 Automotive - Coopers Plains QLD, ph: (07) 3272 9992 So what do you know? Where do you go? Who stocks performance parts? Where do you get your performance parts from? Web sights, stores, workshops, whatever. Personally, I like places where I can wonder in and get my grubby little fingers all over the parts, and have a chat to someone who knows what their on about before I buy anything. Obviously you cant do that over the net. Cheers all.

BTW: right click on the link and "save target as..."

Sorry mate, I never got the PM, something must have gone wrong. I ended up getting the manual from this link. http://freakyclown.sytes.net/guides...ce%20Manual.pdf It took a few goes, but it all came through in the end, 149Mb, 1h 40min at 28kb/s and I've got cable. Its got RB20, RB20DET, RB25DE, RB25DET, RB26DETT. Thanks heaps for your efforts anyway.

Ohh, the rice of it all!!! LOL, good luck;)