JCMarshall_Law

That email would give a bit more faith in the dealer, admitting that k's on the clock don't really mean anything on imported 2nd hand cars is a good sign. When I was looking for my car, I had a few dealers get a bit pissed off when I said I don't care what the odometer says. Of course, the 75,000km's on my 95 GTSTare Genuine

Hey all I tried to change my Gearbox oil on the weekend (first time I've tried in this car) and I could not get the plugs out, either of them. A half inch ratchet does not really fit properly, it is too small. The main problem is the plugs are in there too tight and they have that red sealent on the threads by the looks of it. Any advice, Please. What tool should I be using? Any advice on how to get the overtight / glued in plugs out. Don't want to have send it to a shop for such a basic job. Thanks.

Hey ya’ll, Well I have finally bid on, paid for, received and installed the exhaust for my R33 GTST skyline. As I said I would post up to say how it went, first of all I'll answer my questions from the first post. 1) Are they worth the money? A: Yes, I bought the mild steel version that came with the stainless steel cat and muffler, mild steel front and dump pipe in one and mild steel mid pipe for only $650 plus $50 shipping. I don’t think you will find anything like this cheaper. 2) Are they of good build quality? A: The build quality is surprisingly good, the muffler is all robot tig welded and is as good as anything you can buy for $300 or more. The cat was hand welded, but done well. The Mid pipe was fine, good quality welds, well cut flanges, good composite mandrel bends. The front / dump pipe was the same although the bell mouth to the turbo flange was welded very close to one of the flange bolts. A few dings with the hammer were required on the bell mouth to get the nut to turn without binding on the pipe, really was not a big deal. Most importantly everything fitted very well, all the flanges were at the correct angles and all the brackets fitted up to the factory supports no problem. All the flanges were accurately cut. I would not say the build quality was as good as big brand names like trust or HKS but this system is just as functional. For the price you can’t beat it. 3) What’s the sound level / quality like A: As good as anything I have come across before, sounds sweet now, but quite loud. Should still just pass a noise test. 4) Are they easy to fit? A: Once you have got the old system off it is an hour long job at the most, nothing tricky at all. The biggest problem is removing the old dump pipe. Those bolts were done up so tight I was shi**ing myself that they were going to break. I have been through the process of removing broken stud bolts in a RB30 before and that was a painful process. So I was a happy camper when they all came off in one piece (did require a lot of swearing though). Like I said before everything fitted without a prob. 5) Do they come with all the parts you need, A: Sort of, the system did not come with new stud bolts or turbo flange gasket, but the stud bolts are east to get (standard 8mm? Nissan) and the gasket is a pressed metal gasket and should not require replacing. All of the rest of the bolts and gaskets were supplied, sweet! 6) Performance wise, how do they go? A: they are metal pipes, how far wrong can you go? Yes the car goes better, spools up quicker and now I can really tell when it hits the higher boost at 4500rpm, seat of the pants calibration says there was a decent power gain. Everything a 3” exhaust should do. Summary: Overall I’m happy, can’t beat it for the price. I would like to upgrade to one of those CES split dump pipes one day (cat is in exactly the factory position so not a problem at all) but for another $650 I can wait a while. I’ll prolly post a tutorial on how to do this if there is not already one there. I took pictures during the process so it is well documented. Hope this helps someone one day.

All my best wishes to those affected by this tradegy, I'm praying that those people who have lost someone they loved have the strength to get through this. A lesson for us all, This can and will happen again, Thats what I'll be thinking the next time I'm tempted to drop the right foot, hope everyone else does as well. In the end life is all we have, R.I.P.

I know what I'd be doing with $372,000

Has anyone ever had a problem with the stud bolt snapping off in the turbo when removing the dump pipe? I'm going to be changing my dump pipe this weekend. I would really like to know if I have to prepare myself for the painfull process of removing broken stud bolts. The car is a 95 GTST, Replys would be greatly appreciated, so if you have done it could you post up what happened either way. Cheers,

Yeah, looked like a lot of fun out there, looking forward to next time so I can get my R33 out on the track. Good to put some faces to the names as well. How wicked was that SLK V8 Merc!!!! GTR's were nice as well.

"hits boost and sounds rooted" Cool title for the post Never had it happen but I'd put my money on a busted turbo. No problem, just a great excuse to buy a bloody big replacement turbo.

Sorry for the noob question again, is it going to be fairly obvious where to go tomorrow, I know queensland raceway is a big place but I've never been there before. Thanks,

Fair enough, point taken, I did'nt think having a thread devoted to driving offences committed by skyline owners was a great idea. "Brag session" were perhaps badly chosen words. Only an opinion, Cheers.

Thanks, just PM'd you GTRman1992, I wont be able to get the car ready in time for this Wednesday but I'll try to just come along and take a look (sorry, I know that does not help you). Definitely put me on the list for the next track day. Thanks,

Only person who gave me a hard time about buying my skyline was my financial advisor, everyone else loves it. You only live once, why else do we live but to have fun and be happy, my skyline makes me very happy, a never ending source of amusement as far as I'm concerned, best toy I ever bought. If you want something, work hard and get it, How pissed off would you be if you were lying on your death bed thinking, I wish I had done that.

Hey guys and gals, I've never been to a track day before, only had my skyline about a month, ...So what is the deal, how is the day run? Does everyone get a certian number of laps? I guess there is no wheel to wheel racing, just time trials? Does it matter how modded (fast) your car is? Scrutineering (spelling?), what is the deal there? I'm really keen to come along to the next one,

Insurance companys have very good investigators, trust me.

Come on guys and girls, this thread aint a good idea. The only thing I don't like about my skyline is the amount of attention it draws from the cops, this thread aint helping. Refer: Cops on Forum thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...t=cops+on+forum let alone the insurance implications if the companys find out about this brag session.

LOL... busted, No I don't have a Catch can on my car, (have worked on a couple though). Anyway, good to know I was right. and good to hear it is not a cracked head.

I don't see how a blown head gasket could leak coolant into the cam cover. SLY SKY: open up the cam cover (or even just the oil filler cap) and have a look around, can you see water? (lets hope not), can you smell water? (got a strange musty smell usually) is the oil milky at all (maybe drain the oil and check). Get back to us and tell us how it went.

That sounds very bad, cracked head could leak coolant into the cam cover, from there it could end up in the catch can. Ther is another posibility, which may be a little less worrying. The reaction of petrol (mostly octane) produces carbon dioxide and water vapour. You could be getting blow by (CO2 and water vapour) and the water vapour could be consensing in the catch can. I would have thought that it would have boiled off again (and ended up being scavanged throught the intake if you have the scavanging system operating). It is hard to tell which is more likely without seeing the car, I'd need to know: 1) did you find the water when the engine was cold or hot. 2) did you find it right after the engine was running or had tha car sat around for a while. 3) how much did you find 4) could you tell if it was coolant or plain water. 5) is there way the water could have leaked in (is it a atmo vented catch can) It will probably become obvious if it is a cracked head before long so lets hope thats not it. Blow-by is no big deal, even new engines have it, just gets worse over the life of an engine from wear, eventually could require a rebuild.

Damm... K&N are out of the question.

Heard random comments about pod filters being illegal, Has any actually got defected for having a pod? Why the duck would they be illegal? Even heard that you can only have a FMIC if your pod is inclosed in an airbox WTF?!?! I sure this is crap, but any informed advice would be very much appreciated. Sometimes doing a search gets you lost, I started looking for a thread on this and instead I found the roil oil treatment threads..... damm...... two hous later i'm finally back to asking: What is the deal with pod filters???????. Thanks.

"Just" is right the calc is for straight pipe, I was more just pointing out that there is dick all pressure loss in uniform pipe with that diameter at that velocity. You can work out the minor losses (ie losses from bends, valves (throttle) etc..) with the eqn below. All just an excuse to use those old uni books. ploss = ξ 1/2 ρ v^2 where ξ = minor loss coefficient ploss = pressure loss (Pa (N/m^2) ρ = density (kg/m^3) v = flow velocity (m/s) hloss = head loss (m) g = acceleration of gravity (m/s^2) Typical values of minor loss coefficient Flanged Regular 90 deg Elbows ξ = 0.3 Threaded Regular 90 deg Elbows ξ = 1.5 Threaded Regular 45 deg Elbows ξ = 0.4 Flanged Long Radius 90 deg Elbows ξ = 0.2 Threaded Long Radius 90 deg Elbows ξ = 0.7 Flanged Long Radius 45 deg Elbows ξ = 0.2 I pulled most of this stuff off http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com - really usefull sight.

Think had about how much pipe length you will save, is it really woth it. There is a pressure loss of about 25 Pa (N/m2) (0.0036 Psi OR 0.00025 Bar) in 1m length of 65mm (2.5inch pipe) really, is it worth all the effort. The maths to work out that pressure loss is at the bottom of the post. Also, The factory plenum and inet runners were designed that way for a reason, very close to symmetrical flow with equal length runners, ie equal air flow to all cylinders so fuel trimming is not required. Personally, I do not like the design of most aftermarket inlet manifolds, sure some flow better but pressure drop between cylinders can be significantly different resulting in different air flow and screwed up fuel trimming (some cylinders running rich, some lean - makes it very hard to tune). If you want to do it properly your are going to need a management system that allows fuel trimming, eg, Motec, (can't comment on PFC, Wolf etc.. never had experience). My advice, leave the factory manifold unless you want really big power numbers, save the money, Here is the maths to work that pressure loss; Air at 60 oC flowing in a 1 m galvanized duct - 65 mm diameter - with velocity 15 m/s. (All guesses at a typical operating condition) Reynolds number Re = dh v ρ / μ where v = velocity ρ = density μ = dynamic or absolute viscosity Re = ( 1 kg/m3 15 m/s 0.065 m ) / 2 x 10-5 Ns/m2 = 48750 (kgm/s2)/N ~ Turbulent flow Using Moody Diagram - the friction coefficient - λ - is: λ = 0,015 The major loss - Darcy-Weisbach Equation hloss = λ ( l / dh ) ( ρ v^2 / 2 ) = 0,015 (1 m / 0,065 m) ( 1 kg/m3 (15 m/s)^2 / 2 ) = 25 Pa (N/m2) = 0.0036 Psi = 0.00025 Bar So with a whole extra meter of intercooler piping you would see 6.9964 Psi instead of 7 Psi at the manifold.

Prolly be supprised how cheap you can get a custom ally job made, A.R.E. in Briz did a good job for us when I was in the Uni of QLD FSAE team. Sure there is someone similar in Adelaide.

These are the responses I got from various buyers and the seller, generally a pretty good opinion of the system considering the price, you can make up your own mind. I'm aware how anal retentative all of this is, but when it comes to my car or spending $1000 on a product I've never seen, then I'm sure I can be forgiven. (Think this is a bit obsessive, then you should have seen me when I was buying the car!) Note that I have cut out some of the irrelevant info from these messages, sorry the post is still huge, but I hope it helps someone out there. Buyer opinion regarding mild steel exhaust system for a R33 skyline (the one in the post by Liquid Ice above): “Firstly, I'm very impressed with the exhaust I absolutely love it. First I added the high flow cat and cat back exhaust and I noticed the boost increased heaps and the car had so much more nuts. After a couple of days I added the front pipe and I noticed the car had more torque, top end did not change that much . So from a performance point of view well worth the dollars. Noise: Silencer really doesn't do that much. Anyway the exhaust is not that loud, not drony at all.. Q: Is the system ready to bolt on, ie; does it come with all the necessary gaskets, bolts, connections. A: NO! but nearly, you get the dump pipe, cat back, high flow cat with 1 gasket, canon muffler and bracket for the canon muffler. If your in a rush to put it on like me you can use the original gaskets and bolts. Actually I had to get some bolts and nuts - same bolts that are on the high flow cat. Oh you will need to get a gasket for the canon muffler too. Q: Confirm - is it a direct bolt on replacement for the standard exhaust system on a R33 GTST series 1 Skyline. A: Yes: I have a series 1.5 no problems for me. took me about 4 hours total to install the exhaust... Have you seen on the net how much the exhaust cost - ~$1500. So even though it was missing some insignificant pieces it is definitely worth the money. took 5 working days to get to my house.” Message from the seller regarding the mild steel version “Yes, the mild steel has the same design as the stainless steel one. The system consists of front and dump pipe in one, stainless steel cat, catback pipe, canon style muffler and muffler bracket. It is designed to fit the factory turbo and there is oxygen sensor hole in the dump pipe and there should be another one with the cat. Bolt and gaskets are not included. The actual system look like the stainless steel one except the pipes are in silver ceramic colour. The weight difference between the two is minimal. My recommendation is this : For performance only : go for the bargain mild steel system as the pipes are powdered coated For good look and performance : stainless steel” Email from seller regarding the stainless steel version of the exhaust Answers to your questions. Yes, it is direct bolt on system which you do not even require welding, it is designed for the factory turbo so everything is there for you. Bolts are not supplied but any muffler shop can provide that to you cheaply. This is a great performance system will bargain price. Front and dump pipe in one High flow cat Catback pipe Canon style muffler Muffler bracket. All made by Xforce. Buyer opinion regarding mild steel exhaust system for a 200sx by the same seller and manufacturer: "The exhaust is not the best system that i have installed, but having Said that if u have half a clue it will bolt on without any major Problems. Ready to bolt on including gaskets and stainless steel bolts… It comes with the oxygen sensor threaded holes, both at the beginning Of the system and at the catalytic converter end. Some of the brackets were not in exactly correct positions I have done an original trust system on a 200sx and that was a joy to Work with. Everything was like original, brackets and all. It sat nice And tidy without any hard effort. Having said that, for the huge price difference, between 'trust and This system', it is expected that the system have some imperfections. It took me just on 3 hrs to install and that was done at home with the Car up on axel stands and using my own tools. At a fast pace and with Another person u can do it under half time." Buyer regarding mild steel exhaust system for a 200sx by the same seller and manufacturer: “I just bought a full system from him, including mild steel front pipe and cat-back, and stainless steel muffler and hi-flow cat for just $650, (I have ask Australia's Best for exhaust system, they are offering me the same system including installation for $980, which is lot dearer)for this price you shouldnt expect top quality, but for such a bargain system i think its ok. after i installed, everythings fine, gain a bit power, and the brand is xforce, u can check on the website on www.xforce.com.au, i think the muffler is LP02 from xforce catalog.”

Cheers man, I have not bought anything yet, I've emailed the seller to ask a few questions about that exhaust. I think it is the mild steel version of the stainless system I posted in my origional message. Fair bit cheaper than the SS version - $650 + $49 P&H. (bloody cheap for a 3" mandrel bent turbo back exhaust with a SS high flow cat and cannon muffler). I'll make a decision about which I think is better value after I hear from the seller. I have also asked a few people who have bought the same system from this seller to see what their opinion is. I'll post up anything I learn if I get any replys.