JCMarshall_Law

Buy mine instead, it has none of those problems See sig. haha, shameless plug.

Its a 1995, not sure of the month. Yes, most 1995 models are what we know unoffically as the series 1.5. The series 1.5 have all the series 2 running gear and series 2 factory options were avaliable. The only difference between the series 1.5 and 2 are cosmetic - slightly different front bumper, bonnet and headlights. Mine has an aftermarket GTR front bumper so it is pretty hard to tell wether it is a series one or 2 anyway. Cheers.

what djr81 said. I've used Bendex ultimates, Ferodo DS2500 some Nizmo pads at the track. The Bendex don't cut it. With the Feredos and I boild the fluid (Motul RBF600) before the pads go.

It came with the car and I've been told they were a factory option. This car has just about every factory option avaliable so it makes sence.

Damm, did not realise how much these things are going for now so there has been a price drop, see original thread.

Price adjusted, Now $17,000.

Hey all, it is very sad for me but my car is for sale, full details here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=128257&hl= Those who have seen my car at cruises should be able to vouch for it. Thanks,

Some more pics.

FOR SALE Nissan skyline 1995 R33 GTST (turbo) Series 1.5 (series one body but series two engine from factory) Metalic Black (looks dark grey / purple in sunlight) 5 speed manual Minor mods Excellent condition 98,XXX km on the clock (~68,000 km when I bought it 2 years ago) Price $17,000 (Price drop 25 Aug 06) It is sad for me to be writing this but it is time to sell my skyline. I have just been transferred to Townsville for work (currently in Brisbane) and have been given a company car thus no longer need the skyline. Things you need to know: The car is available for inspection in Brisbane (Fairfield - South Brisbane) Please give me a call to arrange a look or ask a question (mob: 040 353 1284) My name is Patrick. I may be open to reasonable offers but I would prefere you come and take a look before you make an offer. I'm in no rush to sell, If it does not sell before I leave (early September) I will have the car shipped up to Townsville and I will continue to sell it there. No trades. I have seen a lot of skylines over the two years I have owned this one so I know it is a good example of a R33 GTST. I think the price I have posted is reasonable. I have spent thousands on mods and making sure it is in top condition since I bought it for $20k two years ago. One of the best around! There is not a single fault on this car. Engine is strong and healthy, paint is excellent and the interior is as new. I have had the car maintained at either Mercury Motorsport or Gaven Wood Autotech and have VERY regularly replaced the engine oil with Motul 8100 and Redline Shockproof in the gearbox and diff. I've got plenty of recepts if you would like to see them. 100k service has been done - All belts , bearings, idler pulley, water pump all replaced - got recipts from Gavin Wood Autotech Has run standard boost its whole life. Always garaged. I'm a professional mechanical engineer and a car enthusiast - I look after my cars. The car is also advertised on Carsales. Bankcheque or direct deposit preferred. Rego till April 2007 <--- JUST PAID 3/10/06. Just had a major service at Gavin Woods AUTech - All fluids, all filters, plugs, tune. Car will come with a Safety certificate. Some standard features I should mention: Climate control, power everything, factory option interior - not the crappy standard cloth finish, drivers airbag, ABS, genuine skyline floor mats. Modifications: Suspension Whiteline adjustable anti roll bars - front and rear Nizmo front shocks - Damping adjustable Bilstien rear shocks HICAS lock kit (bar type) Subframe allignment kit (pineapples) set for "all round performance" New heavy duty castor rod bushes Nizmo front strut tower brace AMG (Mercedes) mags 17 x 8 inch - look great and were very expensive! Goodyear Eagle F1 Tyres 235-45-R17 (80% tread all round) Brakes Feredo pads front and Nizmo rear Standard front disks just machined. Nizmo master cylinder support bracket. Motul RBF600 Brake fluid Engine Xforce turbo back exhaust (3 inch, madrel bent, highflow cat, cannon muffler) Apexi power intake air filter Interior Pionieer CD head deck. Pionieer front speakers Wolf alarm, immobiliser and remote central locking (Aust standard) FET Turbo timer Exterior GTR Front bumper and grill *********** Mechanical check welcome at your expense. I still have most standard parts (inc: HICAS, Exhaust and airbox) if you want them. Picture of engine bay is old - before I got the Apexi air intake fitted, all other pics current. Cheers, Patrick.

All your left rear suspension is f**ked (upper, lower control arms, toe link, HICAS, possibly the upright) it will have to be replaced, the front is probably the same. The rear subframe is probably bent, The whole thing will need to be replaced, The calliper should be ok and the disk may be ok of your lucky. Your rims will be rooted, if your very lucky they may be repaired but looks unlikely. This will be a very expensive repair job if done by a workshop - $3k - $5k depending on how much is rooted. If you do it all yourself maybe $2k. If your were not doing something stupid at the time, you could have hade something in the suspension fail that caused you to loose control, you'll probaly not find the original fault with all that damage. Good luck dude.

Basically I find skylines with stock suspension in reasonable condition very comfortable to drive with not bad handling characteristics, and they should not squeek. So something is not right, either it has rock hard jap spec shocks and springs or they are just rooted shocks. Squeeking is prolly from the suspension bushes, might be a good idea to replace the major ones especially if they are the standard crappy silicone filled ones. As for the rattling that just sounds like a car that has seen a pretty hard life. Take it to a suspension shop and ask them to take a look. If you have the pedders $14 28? point suspension safety check get that done, you don't have much to loose and that may tell you something, just don't get any work done there, or at least don't book it in as soon as you get the report done - that is what they want you to do.

Insane! I would really like to know what is like to drive a car like this? That is almost 1 kW/kg!

Yeah, happy birthday dude.

Yeah, sounds great to me I'd love to get to some of the NSW tracks. Going to bring that fancy timing gear Paul?

Hey I thought I saw you there, did'nt get a chance to say hello because I was off to the servo with my tail between my legs.

Hey all, It was a great day, well the few hours I was there anyway, I only drove the morning and had to head back to work for the arvo. I was pretty happy with my times, 1:09:04 for the clubman, and pretty consistant the whole day. Time to start spending some mony on go fast bits me thinks. What I dickhead, I ran out of fuel and could not finish the last session on the national track, limped to the servo on vapors. I'm sure I've never used half a tank in three sessions on the clubman (which is all I had) I usually only fill it to half to keep the weight down. Good to meet you JNewton, even if it was breifly, glad I put on a good show at turn one, bit of late braking always keeps things interesting I toned things down in the next session, braking earlier and setting up for the corners better, got pretty much the same times as when I was hammering the brakes. Thanks to Joe for the advice on how to fix my brake fade problems... Would have loved to hang around to see how that car of yours went SirSkyline, with an engine bay that shiny its gotta go fast So how did the clutch go? Jmac, hope that "extreem" toe out issue is not to serious :0 So what was it like braking at the end on the main straight with that funky rear end "allignment"?? Gordon, bummer about the electrical gremlins, looking forward to seeing it out there next time. Once again thanks to Paul and the vollies for all the work they put in. Anyway, can't wait for the next one. Cheers, Pat.

Hey hey, pretty good list of people there, I'm looking forward to driving with a few of these guys. Gordon, I'm keen to see how the 32RB25 goes, lets hope it holds together Stoked that timing is working Paul, not so aprehensive about being the timing dude again now, ha ha See ya there

Ha ha, SK you just beat me, at least we are saying the same thing

What your describing sounds like something more commonly known as axel tramp. It is pretty common in Skylines and probably many other models. A couple of ways to fix / improve the problem are: 1) subframe allignment bushes - these lock the rear subframe in position rather than having it able to move on its mounts. 2) good shocks / springs - another part of the problem is that the shocks / springs are not able to control the rapid oscillation of the rear end - a good combination of shocks ande springs will help. 3) As above make sure tyres are at correct pressure. I've done all those three thinks and I don't have any problems at all lighting up the wheels withput them bouncing around. Cheers.

Care to share your secret? Film / digital? exposure? Nice photo!

I have not read the whole report yet but really interesting to see that Goodyear Eagle f1 got top place. I have these tyres on my 33 at the moment, I thought they were pretty good but I'm supprised they beat tyres like the toyo t1r and michelin pilot sport going on the sort of praise they both get on this forum. I have never tried the t1r or pilot sports by the way. I got the f1s really cheap as well - ~ $220 per tyre - 235/45/17. The pilot sports and t1r were twice that price.

If your just worried about moisture getting into the carbon fibre, then worry no longer it will not be a problem. The epoxy that the carbon is imbeded in will not take on water and the carbon cant because it *should* be completly encased in the epoxy. If your worried about water getting into the engine bay... some of the above ideas sound ok.

0 - 100km/h is still a pretty good measure of how "fun" a car is to drive, but I see what your getrting at. 10/10 for the effort

How do you recommend someone imports a car for the first time?

I've done it on my 33 GTST. They are heat shrunk on, no welding or mechanical fastners. Here is how to do it: 1) Jack car up, remove wheel. 2) Remove brake calliper 3) Remove brake disk. 4) Use a pair of pliers to pull the stone guard towards you (grab the top corner and do lots of bending) This way you can get a hacksaw blade to the ring that is heat shrunk onto the upright. (the whole thing is in one piece). 5) Cut through the stone guard and the ring. The uprights are a lot harder metal (on the GTST ONLY!!!) so you can't damage them much but be careful. 5) You will know when you have cut through the ring because it is under a fair bit of tension and you'll prolly hear a little "tink" sound as it brakes and you'll see a little gap. 6) now it is just a case of bending and bashing the stone guard untill you can get it over the hub. 7) Reinstall the disk, calliper, wheel and lower the car. Done. Not hard at all, will take a couple of hours if you've never done it before. I'm pretty sure it helps the brake fade a bit but I have not pushed my car to that situation since I did it.