JCMarshall_Law

I removed mine with one of GTRGeoffs lock bars, my guess is you save about 3-5kg but thats not what I did it for. The car is far more stable in high speed corners and seems far more stable under heavy braking (tested that on Tuesday at QLD raceway). Worthwile mod. I have had no problems with low speed power steering getting heavy.

Hey pistonfreak I've got a r33 GTST skyline that I take out to track days a few times a year. Last track day was Tuesday this week and I ran into some big brake fade issues. Firstly I noticed something was wrong when I came back into the pist after 5 hot laps of the clubman track at QLD raceway, the pedal felt mushy but I was still able to get adequate braking and with a few pumps of the pedal the pressure came back up... but dies off again after a few seconds (I did not have braking issues while on the track). This went away as the brakes cooled. Firstly can you give me any idea why this was happening and how do I fix it. The next time I noticed was when it had more serious concequences, I was on the 5th lap of the national circuit at the end of the main straight going 190km/h, when I got on the brakes not much happened, I knew what was happening but it was still unexpected because there was no warning. I ended off in the kitty litter at around 100km/h. Specs of my current setup: 1) Standard rotors front and rear (fronts machined just before the track day so down to about 28-29mm thick) Standard rotors are not slotted and are 297mm diameter. 2) Standard calipers front and rear. 3) Feredo pads front (brand new before track day), Nizmo rear (older but plenty of meat) 4) Standard brake lines. 5) Motul RBF600 DOT4 fluid 6) Backing plates still installed. 7) master cylinder support My car is not a serious track machine and is still putting out pretty much stock power (exhaust and pod mods only) I've done a bit of work on the suspension - nizmo struts front, bilstien rear, standard springs, whiteline swaybars, HICAS removed, subframe bushes, front strut tower brace. I don't ever plant of putting out more than 200rwkW and I'm pretty much happy with the suspension. I'm currently lapping the QR clubman track at 70 seconds flat. Can you give me any advice on a economic setup to prevent this in the future? I dont want to change calipers and I'm not all that keen on adaptors for the callipers to fit bigger rotors (I'm sure they would flex too much causing more problems - what is your opinion?) My plan was to remove the backing plates front and rear, install braded brake lines and use some DBA4000 sloted brake rotors up front. Does that seem like a reasonable setup? Will this setup keep me going (stopping ) if my power output goes up? Some tricky questions I know, but if you can shed any light on the issue at all it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Patrick.

Hey all, Firstly, thanks to Paul and the volunteers for organising and running the day. It was the most organised and smoothest day I've been to. I think all had fun and I don't think there was any major disasters or mechanical failures. I'm happy I finally posted some decent times (at least I'm happy with them) and I'm very happy I got away very lightly after a serious brake fade issue. On my 5th hot lap of the national circuit, at the end of the main straight at around 190km/h, I got on the brakes and not much happened... not much continued to happen as I swung the car sideways (to stop the front bumper from being ripped off in the kitty litter - stupid thing to do in hindsight). I hit the gravel at about 80-100km/h and came to a stop balancing on two wheels for what seemed like a very long time. Lucky the car did not roll but I spent the next hour pulling rocks out of the rims and brake callipers. Luck there was no damage and I drove home! It goes without saying I'll be looking into preventing brake fade at the next track day - look out for a thread near you. The guy who was filming at the end of the straight got it all on film (I'm sure it will show up at the next pizza night) - I'd love to get a copy, can someone put me in contact with him - I think it was the guy who puts the pizza night vids together. Thanks heaps to the track officials who pulled me out and rolled my tyres off the rims to get the rocks out. Cheers, PS: I'll pist a few pics when I get them.

If you can't open up the engine (remove head and sump) then you could do the following. Compression and leak down test, most auto workshops can do it. This test will give you an indication of the health of the rings / bore and valves. Start it if you can. Pressure test the cooling system. General look of the engine, is it clean or is there oil and/or coolant stains. Do the turbo shafts have any play. Does it show any signs of serious heat stress - burnt paint or melted electrical connections. Is there a hole in the block with a conrod hanging out of it May not tell you much, but you could check the condition of the oil (if it as the same oil it was last running with) If you can pull it apart: Remove the cam covers and check condition of everything in there - cams, lifters, valve stems, etc Remove head - check condition of bore and pistons Remove sump and check big end conditions - bearings, crank etc. Other than that - take it to someone who knows what they are doing.

From the look of the photos and the list of work performed, this is one of the best modded 32 gtr's for sale at the moment. If I had the money, I'd be making an offer, $30k is not unreasonable. Good luck mate.

Cool, Hey where did you get that intercooler piping done in the first pic? That is a far more sensible route for the pipes than the usual setup where the cool side of the pipes run over the radiator.

Pics added - other two pads are still in the box.

I'd be offended by that offer.

Easy, If you have heaps of spare cash - buy a stock one and mod it If you want a tough car - buy a modded one. Maybe not quite as easy as that I'm going to buy a modded one! I've spent too much on my GTST to even think about seriously modding a GTR from stock.

I've got a nizmo strut brace - it has an incorporated master cylinder support, no damper though. Sorry - off topic.

I have not laughed so hard at a thread in a long time.

I've had a couple of offers, they will go to the first person who offers $80 or to the person who offers most by Monday 20th Feb (next week). Cheers,

Can these be fitted if you already have a strut tower brace?

Hey, I'm pretty sure I saw this car at Mercury Motorsport yesterday. Mine was in there at the same time.

Wow, I had no idea, I have not seen a snaped cam before, although I'm not a mechanic and I don't play with cars everyday. Interesting. Good to see people seem to agree with my ideas on the failure.

Snapped cam?!?!? WTF? how long were they in the car? Still they should not snap, Pull it out and see if it was a fatigue failure (looks a bit like rings in a tree trunk at the edges if you are look end on), Were they staight? (hard to tell now) Was something not alligned correctly? (hard to miss-align cams I know) Were all the tolerances / torque settings on the cam retainers correct? You may have a case to claim faulty manufacturing. My 2c

Looking forward to seeing this at the track day on the 21st. I'll be in a black r33 GTST. I've been thinking about buying something like this (already built track car) so I'd love to have a chat.

Item: Stock Exhaust for R33 GTST minus the CAT (gave it away to a friend - damm). Includes front and dump pipes with old gaskets and bolts - if you really want them. Old cat could be picked up from a wreckers really cheap - they have a standard exhaust flange. Location: Brisbane (Fairfield - just south of the city) - PICK UP ONLY Item Condition: As you would expect from a 10yo car - perfect working order. Reason for Selling: Got aftermarket exhaust - just need to get rid of it Price and Payment Conditions: $50 ONO!!! any offer considered Extra Info: Good for passing roadworthy, clearing defect or compliance (lets hope I don't need it!!!) Contact Details: PM me or give me a call (0403531284) Cheers,

Item: Bendex Ultimate Brake Pads (complete front set) Location: Brisbane (prefer pickup but will post at buyers expense) Item Condition: Brand new in box Reason for Selling: Forgot I had them and bought a set of feredo's Price and Payment Conditions: $80 ono (paid $100) Extra Info: Good quality pads for a good price, fine for street and track use. Contact Details: PM me or give me a call (0403531284), I'll be at the QLD raceway 21st Feb track day if you want to pick them up then. I'll get part numbers when I get home. Cheers,

Very good question....... I can't decide myself so I'm no help

Child restraint missing? strange. A wreckers may help you. It may work wiping up the shock, but a good mechanic will still pick it up. Don't wast your time just get a new one, I would not be driving around on a stuffed shock. Not just because it is dangerous but because you will break other parts - strut tops, tie rods, suspension arms etc. Any suspension shop will be able to replace it for around $200 for a standard replacement. Or you could get in on Sydneykid's suspension group buy and replace all of them for something better - which is what I'd do.

That looks mad! I'm not in the market for something like this but I'm sure someone is. It is a pretty unique car so it might take a while. Free bump.

Some more details would be good: 1) Where are you located 2) Engine and/or gearbox rebuilt? 3) Any mods at all? 4) Why you selling? 5) Pics (interior, engine, exterior)

DMD motorsport did a pretty good job for me, supplied a new bar and grill, colour match was good, sturdy construction and fitted well. See my thread on the job for a better review. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...88&hl=fixed+now

maybe