JCMarshall_Law

Yeah, in group 2, that's me, so I'm the only stranger racing a group of mates... great!

Yeah, I got one. One of the the thick material type. The material is a bit like the stuff the "green" shopping bags are made of but a lot softer. I just make sure my car is clean when I use it, otherwise the paint does get scratched. Protects from sun, dust, careless people walking past and makes it a bit less of a theft target when on the street (I hope). Supercheap, autobarn etc... sell them in all sizes, a "medium" fits my r33 snugly. just make sure you get one of the good quality ones.

Yeah, I'm keen. Put my name down.

Done 1714

Come on!!! What is going on? Get out to the track days!!! How many times do I have to say - they are a lot of fun and very worth going to! I'll hopefully be at everyone this year. I'm looking forward to a dry day in Feb so I can finally try to post some decent times.

Wow, that is f**ked. What a prick. If it is all legal and the copper was just being a prick, I start by calling a the relevant transport authority to get advice (and to check the copper was not right), Then I'd be calling a police station to ask what the story is and what you can do. If you still think your right and nobody has helped you, get some professional legal advice. Good luck.

No go on those photos?

I'll put my 2c on it being the new magna, rear tail lights, general crappy shape, door handles... and the mirrors Unless ford or holden are going back to the early 90's shape, I dont think it is either of them.

I don't like the look of the cap screws supplied with those cheaper gerneric brand castor rods (first link). You should also take a look around on the fourms, there is a lot of negative info on Castor rods with spherical bearings as well.

WTF? They sound pretty good to me.

Those pics dom't show how: Could someone post these pics because I'm interested.

Wow, thanks SK, that is a better reply than I ever expected, once again thanks for sharing you knowledge. So if I go for the "all round performance" option the squat characteristics of the car will not actually be changed? I understand that the purpose of the pineapples in this case would be just to replace the crappy silicone bushes with stiffer polyurethane ones, resulting more controlled movement of the subframe? Have I got that right? I think I'll still just go for the camber and castor kits at the same time so I dont have to pay for two wheel allignments. Cheers,

Not keen on a cruise in the wet, I don't trust myself. Enjoy.

Damm, a little bit more conflicting information. By the looks of things on that whiteline sheet, they suggest the castor kit in the handling pack and the camber kit as an option?!?!?

Cheers fellas, I spoke to the workshop yesterday, they confirmed that I should go for the camber and castor kits at the same time. (Although buying both kits results in an extra $300 for them). For now I have just got a set of pineapples going in for "max traction" (Fulcrum in Stafford, QLD). I'll get the camber and castor kits for the next track day. Just a couple of questions: 1) What is the standard front camber and castor on a r33 GTST? 2) That is, too much negative camber? 3) Had anyone used Fulcrum's setting "max traction" for the pineapple kit? What are your opinions. Cheers

Cheers guys, thanks for the replies. Gotta love this forum. So what I got out of your posts: 1) I agree, you have have to look at the system as a whole, but I have to ask questions about discreet elements - I just try to ask them in such a way so I can apply the answers to the whole system. 2) I should go for squat rather than anti squat to increase rear grip. I can hopefully dial out any increased understeer with the bars and adj front shocks. 3) Bummer, I'll have to talk further about this with my suspension shop. Makes just buying the castor bushes a no go. I should have mentioned that it is just a cost issue, I ultimatly want the whole camber castor kit, I'm just trying to do things progressivly to go easy on the credit card. The castor kit is quite a bit cheaper than the camber kit. 4) Exactly the reason I was hoping to just buy the castor kit first. My car is not lowered so the camber should not be a "problem" with the current setup, although not ideal for track circuit work. 5) So I could go get the castor kit and find out that I end up with positive camber(bad thing) and I will have to get the camber kit anyway. 6) Ah ha, very important point. 7) I would not mind one of those dataloggers djr81. Does anyone else have an opinion about the combination of camber and castor kits or the squat / anti squat issue. Cheers.

I am getting subframe allignment bushes in my R33 GTST and I would like to set it up for max traction for circuit / track work (NOT drift). I have been given conflicting info on what "max traction" translated to in suspension talk. Is "max traction" for the circuit (not drift or drag) = max squat or max anti squat??? I was under the impression max squat was better for drag and max anti squat was better for corners??? Could someone please clear up this up for me. I need this info so I can quiz my suspension shop so I know they are doing what I want them to do. One other question: Is it worth getting just a castor kit on the front (ie. without the camber kit) or should I buy the camber kit as well. These are the settings I was going for: (If I don't buy the camber kit) Castor (front) = +7 degrees (with the kit) Toe (front) = 0 (Std Adj) Toe (rear) = -2mm (std Adj) Subframe allignment = "max traction" for track (whatever that may be) Camber - can someone confirm standard adjustment is 0 up front (ie I'm stuck with 0 degrees camber unless I buy the kit). (based on a thread by SK and many hours trawling through this forum) Other mods so far are: damping adjustable Nizmo front struts, Bilstien rear struts, standard springs, blade adj whiteling bars front and rear, HICAS lock kit, 17x8 AMG mags. If you can answer any or all of these questions I'd appreciate your reply. Cheers.

I would love that car! If only I had the cash. I hate to think how much all those mods cost. Someone is going to get a beautiful car! Good luck with the sale.

Cool stuff hey, would have loved to been one of the engineers on that project. It will be interesting to see what happens to the technology. It would be interesting (possibly very boring) if it ever gets used in a racing series. Driving race cars is all about controling weight transfer - it this fancy new technology does it all for you we might as well just have robots driving.

Thanks guys, just the info I was after. Max squat, I thought this was for max traction for drag (straight line acceleration) - Same thing for circuit work??? I'm looking for max traction for the track (NOT drift) - max squat still right?.

Gave Fulcrum at Stafford (in QLD) a call and they quoted me $158 supplied and fitted for a set of subframe bushes (pineapples) set up for maximum traction. Does that sound right? The guy said the bushes were polyurethane and pretty much the same as the whiteline ones but they are only $80 per set. I called Fulcrum at Moorooka and they quoted $295!!! for the same thing, mercuary motorsport quoted $345!!! None of the prices include a wheel allignment. As a side note: does being setup for "maximum traction" translate to being setup for "maximum anti-squat"? I thought I read that somewhere on this forum - I think in a post by SK, can anyone confirm that? Last question: how long should it take a suspension shop to fit one of GTRgeoff's HICAS lock bars?

Sounds good. Its been a while for me.

At least 10, probably more... Seriously, mine is a daily driver and why not? Even highly modified (roadworthy - registered) skylines are fine daily drivers - just go easy on the fast pedal.

Ha Ha, damm you typed fater than I did.

You can buy them on this forum brand new with warranty for $950 delivered. If you want to sell it for $750 consider it sold and send me a PM or give me a call on 040 353 1284. Otherwise good luck with the sale.