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Sorry, double post

Im not 100% sure but cant the timing be adjusted via the crank angle sensor?

I reckon there is some truth to what Spunky Munky is saying. I definitely get more attention from cops driving my skyline than any of my previous cars. To all those ppl who think nothing of it just wait till you get your first yellow sticker for a LEGAL mod and then having to pay associated costs with getting the yellow sticker removed. Then we will see if you are so righteous. Sure not all cops are wankers but some of them are right c**ts.

Green Cotton http://www.autoworld.com.my/forum/allposts...vs+K%26N+filter

Cheers for the replies guys but ive already got mine fixed.

:laughing-smiley-014: The pic in the middle is awesome

Yeah I know that the alarm goes on backup battery when you disconnect the main battery thats why you disarm the alarm/immobiliser first. If you disarm it first it wont set the alarm off when you disconnect the main battery. Well thats how my alarm (Autowatch) works anyway

Cant you just unarm your alarm before you disconnect the battery? Thats how the alarm works on my car anyway.

You can also buy a brass barb connector from places like Enzed to join the two hoses together

You can replace the heater core via the glovebox however you will need to get the aircon degassed and regassed. The procedure is outlined in the 'replacing heater core' tutorial by Predator.

Yeah I agree with Birnie, I have a 3inch turbo back exhaust and pod filter on my R33 and my turbo still only boosts to 7psi.

Hey if anyone is chasing a heater core, radiator or anything to do with your cooling system I really recommend seeing Abbott's Radiators (natrad) in Welshpool. I ran into a few problems when trying to replace my heater core and these guys helped me out a lot, really top blokes. Oh and also it IS possible to replace the heater core without removing the whole dash. Cheers!

My car made it through the pits with a completely exposed pod filter.

Hey guys Ive just removed my heater core using the method which Skybee and Coastlife have described. You can actually remove the heater core without removing the whole dash although you will need to degas your A/C ( mine needed a regas anyway). All I did was - Got the A/C degassed ($30 at auto sparky) Undid the nuts on the A/C pipes going into the firewall Remove glovebox Remove evaporator unit, there is four screws to undo and three electrical connections that unplug and then the evaporator simply slides out. Unscrewed the plastic pipes connected to the heater core. There are 8 screws in total (4 on each pipe) and some of the screws can be a little tricky to access. There is a little plastic clip that secures the heater in place which needs to be unclipped, unfortunately I snapped mine. I cant see why its really required as the plastic pipes that go through the firewall will keep the heater in place anyway. Slide out heater core. This method is good if you cant be bothered removing the whole dash but it may cost you a bit more as you'll need to regas your A/C when you've finished.

Ive just got some quotes to replace the heater.....$1000 - $1200! Ive heard from another member on SAU that u can replace the heater via the glovebox. The only thing is you have to degas the aircon and disconnect the aircon pipes. Im thinking that doing it this way (even with getting the aircon regassed) will come out considerably cheaper than removing the whole dash. Has anyone else done this?

I just bypassed it today using a joiner to connect the two heater hoses. I had to cut one of the heater hoses and I did a messy job of it, I hope it doesnt leak!

Hi guys just wondering if anyone has had their heater core start leaking on them and where abouts you got it fixed? Mine started leaking the other day and Im trying to figure out whether its worth getting a new heater core installed or just bypassing the heater altogether. Ive read in some other posts that the whole dash needs to come out so im thinking its gonna be an expensive job. Does anyone know of a good place in Perth that I could get this sorted out at? Thanks!

I think most people accept that if you buy an import the kms would have likely been wound back. When I was getting my car inspected I asked the mechanic whether he thought the kms were genuine. He replied by saying that "anyone who believes imports have genuine kms still believes in Santa Claus." Not that this helps you much i guess...

I was looking at starting an apprenticeship last year but I couldn't find anyone who wanted to take on a mature age apprentice.

Apparently Redline Lightweight Shockproof isnt designed for synchro gearboxes as it doesnt allow your synchros to mesh properly. Also it supposedly has a short lifespan as it is designed for racing applications. I had it in my gearbox but recently drained it out and put in Redline MT90 (which is designed for synchro 'boxes). The shifting is a bit notchier with the MT90 however. If your not getting any crunching from your gearbox I wouldnt use any of the shockproof oils.

Advanced driving course for driving 20km/h in a carpark??

Can the timing affect the idle? How do you tell if the mechanic set the timing correctly? The car seems to run fine apart from the higher idle speed. Thanks for the replies!

Hi guys, Ive just had my timing belt replaced on my R33 and for some reason my car seems to idle slightly higher than it used to. It used to idle around 700~750rpm and now it sits around 900rpm. Ive spoken to the mechanic and he reckons the idle speed wasnt touched when the car was getting serviced. Does anyone know why it would idle higher than before? Thanks!

Did your airbag go off?

I cant find any other source on the internet (apart from what Merli has said) which confirms that an engraved plate means rebirthed....