admS15

Agree with the other guys. Not high flow. Turbine wheel is too small. Looks stock size and ceramic to me.

Its looking good.

If a cooler hose partially popped off that is exactly what would happen. All boost is leaking out before it gets to manifold. 2nd scenario for no boost would be gates stuck open but that isn't going to stop it from revving over 4k and eventually it will build boost. 3rd scenario busted turbos. Check the piping if u can't see anything obvious take it to an expert to diagnose.

At a guess. Boost leak. Probably partially blown a cooler pipe off. You should probably inspect all piping and check all clamps as a start.

So does that make it an adjustable vct gear now?

yep, fair enough just making the point

is that int. or ext. gate? Also just wanted to point out that you should probably make sure you have the right details of the date and which turbo you are testing on the run id of the graph. It will be confusing for people in future when they are looking at results throughout this thread and you are talking about 1 particular turbo but the run id lists another.

It should be in up position I believe. When in down position it doesn't allow u to open the boot from the in car release lever or from your remote. Allows key access only. I have no idea why this is a feature in any car.

Found myself in similar situation last week except I don't have a key lock on the boot. Stupid valet switch flicked itself somehow. Of course boot was full too. Had to remove back seats and inspection hatch, push all the crap around in the boot to make room and used a longish BBQ spit skewer to flick the switch back. I've now zip tied the carnt so it can't happen again. In your case once u have it open again I think u just need to clean the locking mechanism and lube of some sort. Good luck.

Nistune is meant to be problematic on 33's so its probably a blessing that the board wasn't installed. The graph has torque displayed as foot pounds which makes it well over 600nm. That's huge. What exactly is wrong with the actuator? Looks to be holding boosting OK on the graph but maybe blowing open early hence the additional lag.

Got 1 I wanna sell too:)

That is on a mainline, so prob over 300 on a dyno dynamics in shoot out mode. Still a great result and that torque looks epic.

I'm guessing its over 300. I'm gonna have a stab and say 323 killer wasps:)

Nice go kart;)

Anyway @ sleptema nice work. The car looks to have come along nicely. Must feel pretty good with that power. E85 should get u closer to the 500whp target.

Link g4. How much fatter intake do u want the bloke to run. Look at the pic above your post.

Sounds like your unit is faulty. I would be asking innovate for a replacement unit.

I've been running the innovate mtxl for the last 4 months. Not really long enough to claim any sort of reliability but no issues so far. Its mounted just in front of the single cell cat and has been very accurate in its readings when compared on the dyno. In saying all that, its due for its first free air calibration which I'll do this weekend.

Just ate an sti and ve r8. They probably couldn't even see my painted black cooler. Smile on my face was still priceless. HMAS gtst left them in her wake:D

I was unaware r34 OEM coils where so shite. I learnt something new today. Thanks for the knowledge:)

Well done. Great times considering the mods. You definitely know how to steer. It maybe time for something more serious in the brake department by the look of that rotor;)

OEM are more than capable and have been proven time and time again to handle big power and be more reliable than aftermarket. People usually go split fire because they're cheaper. People have problems with oem because they have 20+ year old units and expect them to make 300+kW. My 20 year old coils are still going, when the time comes I know what I will be replacing them with.

It should. Give it a go. Can't hurt

Have u closed the gaps down? That will help

Poor man pays twice. They should be ok for stock power levels but do expect a failure. As above comment, your better off just driving easily, gap the plugs down to .6mm and save for oem or split fires.