admS15

Being a 96 it would be a non neo rb25, so any non neo rb25 gasket should fit. If I was you, I'd be calling the likes of kudos motorsport , EFI solutions to ensure you're getting the right part and ordering a genuine Nissan gasket kit. Will be a lot cheaper than Nissan spare parts as well.

I see the ad is now labelled sold, does that mean you bought it?

Lovely hat sir

Dose gets biches moist 😂

Same, last few posts pics are borked

There was one recently for sale in Melbourne for around $3350 pick up from I think Mornington Nissan spare parts. If you're interested I'll see if I can find the ad. Still available, here's the link https://www.facebook.com/share/xxwuLVk6FgTm6SJG/?mibextid=kL3p88

As gtsboy already stated. The yellow jackets may cause you issues. Probably be ok at that power and boost level if spark plugs are gapped down to 0.6mm but still a risk and could potentially mean tuning doesn't get completed on first attempt, costing you more $. I'd replace them. I'd estimate around 190rwkw with your listed mods. To get more power reliably, you'll need at least a high flow turbo, will get you up to (250-260kw safely) but you'll possibly need to upgrade your AFM and injectors. S15 injectors are good for around 230-240rwkw. Could just run enough boost to keep them happy. Before you know it, you're running E85, big turbo, twin gates, blah blah 500rwkw 40k later. Yep do that lol 😂

@Dose Pipe Sutututu this guy wants dose. Your extensive knowledge and skills on this topic are required.

If I was you, I'd bolt on a turbo to the de with supporting mods, dial in enough boost for around 280-300kw and enjoy. Deal with gbox replacement if or when it blows.

@MBS206 has or is still doing this conversion into an R33, similar enough. I'm sure he can let you know more about the process and requirements.

I should of said that's for a mix of driving around town with quite a bit of loud pedal and no highway driving. I figure most of us use our skylines as a means to a bit of fun. I usually get around 20-23l/100 for the above type of driving with 315rwkw on E85. It would probably be a little better if my trips to work where longer (only 15 min drive), would waste a bit on cold engine enrichment. I reckon I could get 15l/100 if I drove in full fuel economy mode. No loud pedal, just cruise. I'd rather drive a Camry than do that, lol.

Yeah, that's using way, way, way too much fuel. I'd expect that much only if it was at a constant 100% throttle open situation. Consider somewhere between 20-30 l/100 to be normal use on E85.

Surprised it took this long. You where doing so well, lol.

I hear a pair of them works well on LS engines...

Put a V8 in it. Honestly, bolt a turbo on it. Or V8 turbo, yeah baby.

X3M or SQ5 are worthy replacements, tell the Mrs both are ZF equipped and won't have the same issue as the Tig. 😉

BMW shitbox?

Considering the price of the mechatronic, even if you've got to pay 500 for labour, that's still a win in my book.

Fair enough mate. Good call on sending car elsewhere. As I said something doesn't make sense here and someone else taking over may answer a few questions or confirm what shop a has said. Crank will more than likely be salvageable with a linish and doesn't need upgrading. They can handle pretty big power without issue. You can get a spool kit like this for reasonable money. https://www.spoolimports.com/conrod-piston-deal/spool-rb25-neo-conrods-and-ross-forged-pistons?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuNGuBhAkEiwAGId4aheIUpkSk8p4WcqiPjrHVtQMD2GMG8t37rXkX6hfikjFRQZ-ohSbvhoC-DoQAvD_BwE You already have a serviced head, head studs, timing kit and gasket. Add a few K in for machining and assembly. Will be over 5 k but will also have a known brand spanking new forged bottom end.

Firstly, sorry this has happened to you and just doesn't make sense the way its gone down. Tbh if I where you, given everything you've already done and where you've landed. I'd have that bottom end pulled apart and inspected before buying the 2nd hand bottom end. I'd want confirmation that something is actually really f**krd and to what extent. Engine is going to have to come out either way and head etc. is going to be pulled, an extra hour or 2 labour to disassemble the bottom end isn't adding much to the cost. Depending on the severity make your decision. In your situation, I'd be more inclined to do the proper forged rebuild than spending 5k on a 25 year old bottom end. As Rob said earlier, I did do a budget rebuild with success. Rebuild consisted of new rings, bearings, home hone job, forged rods with arp bolts. The thing is the bottom end was virtually donated to me for a slab of beer and total cost was around $1500 and many many hours. If I had to spend 5k on a starting point for a 2nd hand motor, I would have just coughed up for the forged bottom end rebuild. I'm going to go against the grain here and disagree with using a nitto pump on a 300kw street car that won't see a track frequently. My original unopened engine lasted 8 years at 315rwkw did heaps of track days and when it did finally let go, it wasn't due to an oiling issue. Twas a rod bolt that decided enough was enough. Nitro pump is better, not disputing that but totally unnecessary for street application. Flame suit on boys. I also have a question about how the car drove when you first got it. Did it feel like 300kw vs say now that it only has 180kw? It should be a massive difference.

I'd be happy with that as long as you don't have to pay anything.

Fair enough

In that case, they should fix it. If they don't, I'd be making a really big deal out of it.

Hopefully they do a goodwill repair on it. Fingers crossed for you 🤞