admS15

Fair enough mate. Good call on sending car elsewhere. As I said something doesn't make sense here and someone else taking over may answer a few questions or confirm what shop a has said. Crank will more than likely be salvageable with a linish and doesn't need upgrading. They can handle pretty big power without issue. You can get a spool kit like this for reasonable money. https://www.spoolimports.com/conrod-piston-deal/spool-rb25-neo-conrods-and-ross-forged-pistons?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAuNGuBhAkEiwAGId4aheIUpkSk8p4WcqiPjrHVtQMD2GMG8t37rXkX6hfikjFRQZ-ohSbvhoC-DoQAvD_BwE You already have a serviced head, head studs, timing kit and gasket. Add a few K in for machining and assembly. Will be over 5 k but will also have a known brand spanking new forged bottom end.

Firstly, sorry this has happened to you and just doesn't make sense the way its gone down. Tbh if I where you, given everything you've already done and where you've landed. I'd have that bottom end pulled apart and inspected before buying the 2nd hand bottom end. I'd want confirmation that something is actually really f**krd and to what extent. Engine is going to have to come out either way and head etc. is going to be pulled, an extra hour or 2 labour to disassemble the bottom end isn't adding much to the cost. Depending on the severity make your decision. In your situation, I'd be more inclined to do the proper forged rebuild than spending 5k on a 25 year old bottom end. As Rob said earlier, I did do a budget rebuild with success. Rebuild consisted of new rings, bearings, home hone job, forged rods with arp bolts. The thing is the bottom end was virtually donated to me for a slab of beer and total cost was around $1500 and many many hours. If I had to spend 5k on a starting point for a 2nd hand motor, I would have just coughed up for the forged bottom end rebuild. I'm going to go against the grain here and disagree with using a nitto pump on a 300kw street car that won't see a track frequently. My original unopened engine lasted 8 years at 315rwkw did heaps of track days and when it did finally let go, it wasn't due to an oiling issue. Twas a rod bolt that decided enough was enough. Nitro pump is better, not disputing that but totally unnecessary for street application. Flame suit on boys. I also have a question about how the car drove when you first got it. Did it feel like 300kw vs say now that it only has 180kw? It should be a massive difference.

I'd be happy with that as long as you don't have to pay anything.

Fair enough

In that case, they should fix it. If they don't, I'd be making a really big deal out of it.

Hopefully they do a goodwill repair on it. Fingers crossed for you 🤞

Is it still under warranty? Ducken VAG crapbox. My wife's ford focus junk dct did something similar a few years back, was borked TCM module. Recently it intermittently didn't want to release clutch and would just be in neutral for a few seconds. Clutch fork was binding randomly from clutch dust build up. Some brake cleaner, a spline tool and working the clutch fork back and forth manually sorted it.

Is it back in yet? Chop chop😉

Agree, hard to tell. However, I'd just send it.

It would have been too easy of an explanation of what's going on. I'm all out of ideas but I think you're well on your way to explaining it yourself with the low lift on that exhaust cam. I know that de Neo's with that cam when boosted still make good power but need a fair bit more boost to do it. I wonder if anyone has some stock neo cams lying around to compare measurements.

Most of this is above my understanding but I wonder if a 25DE NEO exhaust cam which are 6.9mm lift has somehow found it's way in there. Not far off your measurement.

f**k man, happy and sad for you at the same time.

I honed the cylinders myself with a 3 stone hone. If I was to use forged pistons, I definitely would've got a shop to do it to make sure the clearances where spot on. Probably best to get a shop to look at the block before buying the pistons and see what size they recommend.

As gtsboy said, 10k AUD is a rough figure for a forged rebuild. Where are you located? Is it only 3 of the pistons that have what appears to be detonation damage on them? If so, a cheaper way out would be to replace the 3 pistons with some good 2nd hand ones, new rings, bearings, hone cylinders, new OEM head gasket, arp headstuds, clean up all the built up crap on the valves, service head and send it. If you can do the bottom end yourself, could save yourself a lot of $. Recently did this with my engine, did also add some cheap forged rods, total cost was less than 2k AUD. Whatever you do, once back together. You're going to have to address what caused the problem initially. Probably tune or fuel quality related would be my guess.

Or she's worried you'll start modifying the M3 and it'll end up just like the skyline anyway. Maybe she secretly loves the skyline..

I think you keep improving this car because you secretly love it 😂

Anyway, single is still king. Twins still in the bin. Lol xoxo

I've got some of those somewhere, I remember removing them years ago but if I can't find them (likely) I'll grab some of those. Thanks for the lead👍

Not ATM. The bug hasn't bitten yet. Just happy to cruise around in it for now. I'm looking at making it more family friendly by putting a cat back in it, try to quieten it a bit, possibly better less crashy suspension and add child seat. Hopefully then will be able to use it for some Sunday drives with the family and get more usage out of it.

Nothing much has really been going on with this. It's been a case of no news is good news. The 1000km milestone has been reached and all is well thus far. Time to change to synthetic oil and send it's mum. Actually before I do any sending, I want to verify the timing. My timing light shit itself so waiting for new one in the mail, will get done once it arrives.

Is that before or after they install the rotrex kit? 😂

While you're at it 1 for the cruise ship and 1 for the Honda 😉

Happy to have been of service 😉

They came up real nice. Looks classy 👍

Yes I had similar issues to what dose is experiencing. Went through everything, had the system regassed, was still playing up, drained it and replaced the sensor/switch on the dryer, still same. A/C guy gave up at that point. As mentioned, I wired in a S15 thermistor and just let it hang on the floor and everything worked. It turned out to be a bad connection at the plug for me, I returned to using the original thermistor. I had slight issues a couple more times but after cleaning the plug and terminals really well, it's been good for quite a few years now. The plug for said thermistor is located just behind the glovebox area. Pretty sure it can be accessed without removing much. Small hands help. From my understanding all the thermistor does is work out when to turn compressor off and on as described above. Surely the fpg kit being ordered has some more modern way to run everything and comes with solid instructions. Please let us know @R3N3 when it arrives.