admS15

Twin T04Z's on the RB20. Will decimate all.

Or LSA to be a cool kid.

I'll add to your humblebrag, my own vanilla rb25 tested at 175psi across the board (warm) when i purchased the car 5-6 years ago on a accurate comp tester with a similar story. Engine was totally stock, stock boost. 60k kms on a Nismo cluster, so probably 200k kms. 5-6 years later of 310rwkw and over 30 track days, a couple of smashed gearboxes, a dead turbo and many many sets of tyres and brake pads. The engine recently comp tested at 160-165psi (cold) on the same gauge. I suspect that would increase a few psi at operating temp. And they say rb's are weak. End humblebrag. Now that I've said that, I'll start researching rebuilds as the inevitable will likely happen very soon.

Pretty sure Tao tested this and the results weren't great. Not sure if any better than the blitz but pretty sure he concluded it was a waste of money. Maybe, Tao can answer better @hypergear

Or just close the window. On a more serious note. May be worth checking if the boot seal is in good condition and sealing. I once had a car that had a crappy boot seal and what would happen while idleing at traffic lights, some of the exhaust gas would travel up past the seal and fill the boot with fumes. It wasn't a problem until you opened a window inside the car which would create a vacuum and suck the fumes into the cabin. Took me a long time to work out what was going on.

In Australia the tried and tested brand is venom cat converters. The biggest body one you can fit will flow the best. Much cheaper than that Apexi one you linked.

Also don't forget the nos, 2 of the big ones. The ford boys will be frothing. I love a good moo mang and this sounds like it's gonna be awesome and drop epic sick skids. Please upload skid vids when done. We love skids around here.

Samsonas brah, you know you should. Bakemono you should too ?

@Kinkstaah i usually fill up at the United in Braeside near the airport. Usually a fair bit cheaper than the others. Although, i haven't been there in a while. If you're ever cruising through there, it's worth a stop.

^this man knows

Best

Add 20psi, actually make it 23 to make up for the lost comp. Seriously, run 18-20 whatever it's happy on and enjoy. Should provide you with plenty of smiles.

LSA

I had a vt2 ss manual many many moons ago. Had pacemaker tri y headers, dual 2.5 inch exhaust, gts 300 intake pipe with modded airbox, exedy clutch and maffless tune. Made 218rwkw on a dyno dynamics dyno on 95 ron fuel. Went very well. Interested to see what this does, 210-220 sounds about right.

could be stuck rings like gts boy said. Get a can of that seafoam stuff or Subaru upper engine cleaner. Take plugs out and chuck around 20 ml in each cylinder and let it sit overnight. Then follow directions on the can. Ive heard of guys running it through the fuel tank and oil for a bit before a flush. Worth a crack i reckon. Otherwise just send it as already advised.

Below 5v at max power.

Does the power fc have a handset? Would be handy to check afm voltage and left field possibly of rev limit set a 6k rpm.

The too much boost will be the problem. Ecu is going into r and r and cutting your fun to protect the engine. You need to work out why it's overboosting. Try to keep boost to 10psi and lower to keep the stock ecu happy.

Nitrous, lots of nitrous will get you there.

I think 1000cc injectors fed by a walbro 460 should be able to do 400rwkw on e85 easily. Im getting 310rwkw on e85 with 740cc inj and dw340 fp at around 85-90% duty cycle. The duty cycle should be a bit lower but my alternator is shitty and can't provide full voltage at high rpm. If you're getting the full voltage to your pump you should have plenty of fun fuel available for your power level.

Have you used the nipple from the intercooler cold pipe as the boost source like this pic, that's how i had done it many moons ago and it worked fine.

Where is the boost t plumbed in? It's probably going to be related to that.

Stab in the dark internet diagnosis. Fuel pump issue, either not getting enough voltage (wiring, alternator issue etc.) or dying pump. This is also assuming that your wide band is reading correctly and is accurate.

Continue please

And the price? Thanks