admS15

So I finally got all this back together today. Decided to set the cam timing back to zero but threw on an adjustable cam gear just in case weird stuff started happening. I set it all up with an oem belt using the line markings on the belt lined up with the markings on the timing cover making sure it was spot on. I spun the motor over a few times, checked everything lined up again and then took a pic. In the pic it looks like it's a tooth advanced again, it's actually not. It's an optical illusion, if you drew a line on the belt it would actually line up with the marks correctly. So that solves that mystery, cam timing was correct all along. If you draw a line between the 0 and 2 on the belt you can see the nark does actually line up on the correct tooth. Couple of pics of the head as received back from its birthday. Apparently was in pretty good shape, is now as good as new. Block cleaned up New oem head gasket, arp studs, nsk idler and tensioner, new tensioner stud and spring, exh manifold studs, yokes and nuts, cam and crank seals completes the service. I also fitted a gmb rb30 water pump. I opted to use the gmb as that is what was already in it, it never leaked and water temps never went over 90 even after 20 minute track sessions. I modified the pump so i could fit a stud on the hole that didn't line up being an rb30 pump. Also received my turbo back from hypergear with a new exhaust housing and bigger wastegate puck. Didn't take a pic but it looks pretty much the same. So that concludes this drama. That was a hell of a lot of work. Shame it didn't really need to be done but at least everything is now in excellent shape and i shouldn't have to touch anything for a long time. Fingers crossed..

Or #Barratheworld http://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/p/1/id/21242 Best pry for you, cheap cheap

Air would have been sucked back in to the cooling system from the loose lower hose and loose rad cap. Bleed it thoroughly and repeat test drive again before chasing anything else.

Looks all good to me. Pretty sure earlier imports had the plate and later imports after mid 2000's had the engraving and pink sticker.

I have an r33 gtst that has the plate like your mates car and i had an m35 stagea that had the number engraved into the strut tower, the m35 also had a pink adr compliance sticker stuck in the front passenger door frame area. I believe depending when and what state compliance was done in determines what type of plate you would have got. If your car is registered, i wouldn't be losing any sleep.

Off for ls2 conversion [emoji6]

I can confirm the weak link theory. I was lucky enough to get my hands on 1 of the last brand new ones available. Im going to cry if i break this one. Anyway, 1000hp minimum is a good starting point..

Im running the dw300 pump with 740cc injectors, stock fpr, making 310rwkw. The above hardware will get you to 300rwkw but not much more. Im running at 90% duty cycle on the injectors with the above combo. You may do a little better with your 140amp alternator. I would source the flex sensor from a reputable source, i got mine through nistune after getting dodgy one through ebay.

Put genuine nissan fan back on and drive off into the sunset. Modify intercooler setup to allow fitment. Brand new ones can be purchased from kudos Motorsport for around 170 if you can't find a good 2nd hand one that doesn't have micro cracks on it.

Pretty sure vct is setup properly. On from 1500 to around 5-5200. I'll send you the map when i get a chance to get to the pc.

Did you pull the seat base apart to have a look at the quality of the welds on the frame? I did when i had one and was horrified with what i saw. There was holes burnt through the thin metal and instead of throwing it out and starting again they just tacked inside the hole. Some reps are ok, others are not. You should definitely give the lower base and welds a thorough inspection. You will need to remove the lower fabric and padding. Pretty easy to take off and put back on. This is assuming they're reclineable and not bucket seats.

I have a cousin who is an engine builder but unfortunately he moved overseas a few years ago[emoji26]

So basically my exhaust cam is advanced roughly 7 degrees, apparently thats how much 1 tooth is and that should aid spool and low end power and torque. My car doesn't really fit this picture. Most cars with my setup, hf turbo e85 etc make around 200kw at 4000rpm and max torque around 4.5k rpm. Peak power 300-320kw.Mine only makes around 150kw at 4k rpm and is lazy with low end torque, peak torque comes in around 5k + but does get to the peak kw figure, makes 312. So that much advance is either too much and having a negative effect or there is something else in my setup holding it back down low. I dont want to lose anything down low as that's what id really like to improve but i will set the timing back to zero as per factory and see how it feels. If it runs like crap or gives me the shits in any way, I'll just put it back to how it was considering the car has been running pretty good and is fast enough as it is really. Gtsboy's suggestion of degreeing everything is probably the way to go and leaves no question unanswered but unfortunately i dont have the patience and required tools to do it.

Yeah baby. You'll be laughing on the outside [emoji106]

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What now? Single?

So if i set back to zero, this will effect base timing,then I'll need to check with timing light and set back to 15° or no? Funny thing though, the cas looked pretty centred the way everything was. I read quite a few threads last night where guys have found the same thing. 1 set it back to zero and apparently his car ran like crap. Tempted to leave it as is and not create headaches but then again i want to do everything right. f**k, what to do..

You can adjust that height by loosening the bolts that hold the latch in place and moving it in the required direction. Latch on boot lid and latch in body.

When pulling everything apart, i noticed the exhaust cam out by 1 tooth to the right. Whoever put the timing belt on 7 years ago set it like that. My question is, should i set it up like that considering the tune has been done with the cam in that position? Is that 1 tooth advanced or retarded and what effect is it having on the power curve? Thanks gents.

No miss fires or leaky injectors. I pressurised the rail when I pulled it out but rest assured the injectors will be sent for a clean and flow check and missile man a new set of manifold studs has been ordered. Don't want to have to touch anything for a long time. Overnight parts from eBay

Shhhh!! Thats more than i can afford pal.

My bad, advice noted. Ordering a heavier foot as we speak.

Head went to the shop today. Guy did a pretty detailed visual inspection, commented on how everything looked pretty good and each cylinder was running real nice. He was thinking it was water that had cleaned the ports but was surprised when he couldn't find any evidence on the gasket and when i showed him the pics of the pistons, he ruled that out. He's pretty confident the cause is air getting sucked back in from the exhaust manifold leak. That actually makes sense because they where the cylinders where it was leaking and warped. He reckons the valve stems looked pretty good except for 1 which looked a bit greasy. The head is going to be stripped, cleaned, new valve seals fitted and valves reseated as well as the broken bolts extracted. In the past someone's drilled one of the studs crooked and actually taken out a fair bit of alloy. That one is going to be filled and then redrilled straight again. I rang Nissan to try and get some valve seals quickly, they quoted me $23 each, $500 plus for a set. I lol'd hard. Ordered the supertechs, once they arrive i should have the head back within a day or two. Rest of the parts should also be here by then and i can start the shitty process of putting it all back together. To add insult to injury, i was having a good look at my turbo and the exh housing has developed multiple cracks, so that is getting sent to hypergear tomorrow to have a good 21u housing machined to fit.

Suppose ill just use what is easiest to get. I do prefer oem though.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu are supertech valve stem seals better than oem. Couldn't find the ones i thought i had in the shed, i was looking for oem replacements but came across these.