admS15

Op6 housing means it is an r34 gtt turbo neo engine. Could also be from stagea, i wouldn't imagine there would be a big difference if any.

Tao, is the above result cbb or bush?

I would also ask hypergear to swap the exhaust housing on the turbo to a 21U. Will be a fair bit less laggy with a 21U.

Yep, forgot about the afm and yes you will definitely need some quality tyres to try and put the power down. Decent brake pads will also be a good idea.

Around 190 rwkw sounds about right. If i was you, id send that turbo to hypergear and get it highflowed (around $900) before your tune. Will then make around 260rwkw and you wont be paying for a 2nd tune after your sick of 190kw. You may also want to gap the plugs down to around .65 to help those yellow jackets alive. Later on you could put bigger injectors in and tune for e85 and make over 300rwkw.

Paint it red, everyone knows red is faster.

There is no reason for the car to be retuned unless you where never happy with the tune done. I wouldn't go back to a stock untuned ecu. For what you're doing with your car, the power fc is sufficient and although they dont have many of the modern ecu features, they do their job of running an rb very well. Cheers.

Sounds like the turbo is toast. Yes that is the going rate for a ball bearing highflow. If i was you i would go for the smallest one to work with oem ecu otherwise you will need to spend a heap of more cash on engine management and supporting mods. The fault code procedure does work but the timing needs to be spot on, use of a stopwatch helps, it took me ages to get it to work the first time. If the engine light is now off, it's unlikely that a code will still show up, may or may not. If you replaced all those sensors and the light has not come back on since, then all is well in that department. If the light is still coming on, then you really need to read the code and figure out what is triggering it. To replace that turbo will cost you around $2000-$2500 parts and labour including turbo. Unfortunately im not sure which shops in Sydney have experience with vq25 stags, hopefully someone else can chime in a point you in the right direction. When i was in your position, i managed to find a good second hand oem turbo and used that. I did the labour myself, cost me $400 all up with new braided oil feed and dump and flange gaskets. 2nd hand turbos are like the lottery, on that occasion i won, it's travelled 20k km since and is still going strong and relatively quiet for a stock vq turbo. If it goes again i will be going for a small high flow for sure.

Does the turbo still spool? If not, could be a broken off turbine. If this is the case it will be very very very sluggish.

Sounds like the turbo is still ok to me. If it was gone, it would a) be making horrible grinding noises b) turbine wheel snapped off and consequently car would have no power at all. If the car still pulls then the turbo is not your problem. Overheating does not sound good, is that going off the stock temp gauge? I would be checking the thermostat and replacing the radiator. You said engine light was on? Did you get the codes read? Here is how you can read the error codes.

Is the turbo definitely gone? Does it still boost. Is it making funny noises? I dont see any reason to replace a transmission if it's not presenting any problems, just give it a service and should be good for another 50k km.

Yes, it can be done. Not the easiest of turbo removals. Need to unbolt gearbox cross member, disconnect shifter and lower box to gain access to dump pipe bolts. You will need some long extensions and swivel joints to reach in. For me, getting the heat shield off the turbo to gain access to the flange bolts was a bastard. I cut down a 10mm socket and welded it onto a small spanner to get the last nut off the shield. Just about every bolt is a prick to undo and remove. Everything is accessible, just. You have to get a bit crafty with extensions. One good cheat is too use brake hose clamps on the rubber coolant hoses going into the turbo, this allows you to not have to drain the coolant. As far as turbo rebuilding or highflowing, you can talk to Scotty's customs or hypergear. They both have good options. To get a mechanic to remove and replace, you're probably looking at around 700 to 1200 in labour alone.

Swap it with one of the ones next to it and see if the problem moves with the relay.

Sequential...

Yeah this is the link https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Auto-Car-Electronic-Stethoscope-Kit-Mechanic-Noise-Detection-Diagnosis-Tool/232374307192?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 They work good, there is a little bit of static heard when you turn it on but nothing that stops you from hearing what you need. When the car is running, you don't even notice the static. I also came across these, this is cheap as compared to other sellers of the same thing, looks pretty similar quality to be honest, headphone cord looks a bit better, the rest looks the same. The kincrome and sp tools version look exactly the same other than colours, they even have the same part numbers. https://goodqualityproducts.com.au/product/sidchrome-car-engine-noise-detection-diagnos-electronic-stethoscope- if i was a mechanic and would get lots of use out of them, i would have gone for these wireless ones https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Wireless-ChassisEAR/222300065562?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 but with the limited use i need them for, the cheap ebay spec is perfect and adequate enough. Found the issue in less than 2 minutes and took around 10 minutes to set up including jacking the car up and running the cables through the drivers window. I ended up just using compact ear phones to hear so i wouldn't look weird while driving around the back streets near home. kit/

Stupid forum media disabled crap. Here's the pic of the chassis ears. Thanks to these, the problem is now solved and im going to put these to use to figure out where a suspension noise is coming from in our Stagea and the mrs Focus which started making a weird suspension squeak last week.

So, getting back to this. A couple of days after i thought i solved my problems, the noise came back worse than ever. I continued searching to no avail. A mechanical diff and drive shafts came up for sale cheap, i thought it was a good opportunity to upgrade and rule out the diff and shafts. Purchased and fitted, noise remained. Fuark, oh well at least ive now got a proper diff and better ratio for track duties (4.36). I went as far as getting someone to drive the car while i was in the back and in the boot, all i got out of that was that it was below the floor and from rear right. Fed up with it all, i kept driving with the noise driving me nuts for a month or two. Eventually, I decided the best course of action was to buy some chassis ears. I bought some ebay specials for $70. Best money ive ever spent (almost). The noise was found to be coming from the forward rear right subframe bush. The chassis ear kit has 6 alligator clamps with mics in them i placed them at different locations on the rear right, 4 bushes, lower ball joint and tail shaft centre bearing. The offending bush was on the first channel i listened to. I couldn't believe it, was that simple to pin point using this cheap tool. On the other channels i couldn't hear knocking but could hear the normal sounds of bearings spinning, exhaust hum and even the brake pads brushing the rotors. Now that i knew where the noise was coming from, i quickly jacked the car up, unbolted the bolts holding that bush and bracket up, 1 of the bolts holding the bracket didn't seem overly tight, from the bottom, the bush appeared to still be in 1 piece. I simply rotated the lock collars a little bit and refitted and torqued everything up. Went for a drive and whoalla, no more stupid knocking noise. I wish i bought this tool at the beginning, would of saved around 10 hours of stuffing about and getting nowhere. Here's a pic of the ebay spec chassis ears. They look uncannily similar to the sidchrome ones i was going to buy which are significantly dearer.

Time?

How old are the iridiums? I killed a set in less than 15k km. Pull the plug and have a look.

Nos

Jesse Streeter.com is another good source for overnight parts direct from Japan manufacturers, lol.

Mine isn't very low, around 330mm from rim centre to bottom of wheel arch. Since you already have the wheels and tyres, get the guards rolled and take it from there. Another option would be to go to a smaller tyre, say a 245. It's not something i would really recommend but if you can't make them fit, its an option.

The only way to get more clearance is to run more negative camber on the rear. I would roll the guards first and then dial in neg camber until they clear. You'll most probably need rear upper camber arms too. Neg camber will also create uneven tyre wear. Put up a pic of how it's sitting, so we can see how bad it is. Ultimately as said above a different rim will fix your issue but i would have thought that combo would clear. I run an 18 x 9 +22, this would sit almost the same as yours in relation to the outer edge and i fit 265 under rolled guards ok. On the latest set i put on (AD08R), they run a bit wider. I had to increase neg camber to -2 deg.

Agree with gts boy about the turbos. Im not too familiar with these newer skylines but i believe the ecu may be tunable using uprev. Google uprev for info. If lots more power is on the menu, i would just go with a supercharger kit, purely for the simplicity of it. Cops in Victoria have no idea about cars these days (unless you live or regularly drive through knox city), as long as its not too low, loud and you're not driving like a dh, you'll be right.