admS15

Try gapping the plugs down to 0.6 and see if it helps or not.

If your going to change from bottom to top mount, you will need to fabricate a new intake and dump pipe. You may as well get a Borg Warner efr8374 turbo(latest tech). Will be the most responsive and be able to make even more power if you desired. Also is made in USA and you should have no problem getting one at a decent price. Fullrace is a distributor. My 2c

243.9kw but if canadian dynos are like murican ones 353kw. Lol

Knowing about his previous dealings and the reputation he has, i've always thought twice about purchasing any of his products (never have). Good to see that he is helping to rectify the issue but can definitely understand your frustration. Hope that it does all get resolved and run smoothly once you receive the input shaft.

Back in the early 90's I had a haltech f6. Think floppy disc and the formidable dos. Wired in with a total of 3 wires. Resolution of 1000rpm. Things where so much simpler back then. They should have left it like that.. Surprisingly it worked flawlessly.

I have had similar happen on an early vq30 maxima but when it started leaking again (not long after), it did with a vengeance. Wouldn't hold water at all. If i was you, id get that pump changed now.

Jap rego sticker i believe

ADM GTR's where and always will be worth more. A mint example today is actually worth more than its new asking price. Reason being there was only 100 brought into australia and sold by Nissan Australia. Supply vs demand. A few things where changed on them to meet adr standards when they arrived in oz, not sure exactly what these where but i'd imagine things like a 3rd brake light, reflectors, that sort of thing. There are other guys on here that could list just about everthing.

@Tony Olsson how about relocating or removing it. No price or regs either, lol.

Well, it's a 850hp turbo with a smallish exhaust housing. My guess is around 550-600rwkw. Edit. Just realised pump 98, 500rwkw unless murica then 850kw[emoji12]

1 line, no good. The kicking out will be when the second wheel does actually get some drive and will be making it unpredictable. I've also been thinking about a 1.5 way but my vlsd is still doing ok,paints nice 11's on the asphalt. Eventually I will make the switch though. #Nismolife

Yeah baby

Does it leave 2 black lines on the road or 1. This will tell you if your LSD is working or not. Mine works fine until the oil gets real hot after multiple laps on circuit. On the street it's fine. Your car wouldn't be kicking out of it was single spinning. My 2c

More like, fairly priced for the overall condition. Definitely good buying and cheap in the current jdm craze climate.

Coz sr20's pull a premium. This bloke again good example of how to not sell a car. some people never learn..

I'm going to go with over tightened bolts. Take it back to the mechanic who fitted it and show them.

Shhhh

Do a massive skid until something breaks. The problem part will then miraculously appear. Easy peasy.

N1 turbos will run around 20 psi safely. If your car has 427 whp , then the turbos will be running at around that boost level. Dont believe everything random guys at shows tell you. If your car had stock turbos 14 psi would have been the safe limit. As above what is a brakestand? lol

GTR is done, money can now be directed to s13. Btw it needs a gtx2863, e85 and then it will decimate all.

They where cheap when taleb got a container of mid-late 2014 production tyres. I think it was towards the end of last year or start of this year. I'm pretty sure you looked at them too.

May be a few months for me, depending if I can get 1 or 2 more days out of these. 1 of them is looking a little sad. I'll see what that looks like after the next outing. I'm committed unless I find a050 for 200 a piece again. Very very unlikely, lol.

If I can get within a second of them I'll be happy. Thing was with the a050 I didn't have my car set up right the first couple of track days, so I didn't get the most out of them. Also as my driving gets better with seat time, I'm hoping to possibly even match the times. I guess what I'm saying is, I didn't get the full potential out of the a050 so the AR1 should have a chance of getting close. Edit. Full slicks > a050

In that case go the rsr-r and wait for hadouken and my future reviews. Or just take the plunge yourself.

Different class of tyre. Dual purpose tyre vs r spec Motorsport tyre. Got to compare apples with apples. Theoretically the AR1 should be much quicker but there hasn't been many reviews where people can actually compare them to a decent r spec and say I went this much quicker or slower with everything else being equal. I am going to get a set when my current a050 are finished and compare times. Got an event or 2 left in them so still a while away. I can get 265 18's for 205 fitted here. Why don't you get a set Dan and tell us how they stack up against your shagged rsr[emoji6]