admS15

Keep putting oil in until it gets to the h mark.

Put more oil in the motor as the others have suggested. Is more than likely your issue.

LSA is the way

May the son of rajab be with you [emoji3]

I have been thinking of rewiring the controller to use the fuel pump signal to trigger the relay for it to turn on. That way if the ignition is on with the engine not running, it will turn off after a few secs. Anyone see an issue with this.

Bumping this up. It's been 2 years since I started using the innovate mtxl. It has been reliable until now, it started showing error e8 recently which can be either sensor or controller. To work out what it was, I went to the wreckers and pulled a couple sensors from early ve Commodores. One was dead and the other worked for about 5 mins. At this point I still wasn't sure what the issue was. I then worked out that my wife's 2012 focus uses the same 4.9 WB sensor and the car only has 40k km on it. I pulled that out and tried it and all back to normal. So it's just a sensor problem. A week or two ago I had forgot the ignition on for around 20 mins without the engine running, im pretty sure that must have fried the sensor (as hadouken warned earlier in this thread). The mtxl is obviously fussy with sensors and if it doesn't like it, it will display an error instead of giving bogus readings. So in summary the later mtxl with 4.9 sensor is pretty good , two years of daily use, around 25k km and around 10 track days till a sensor failure. I'd call that a fair amount of use and a reliable unit. I reckon if I didn't forget the ignition on the other week it still would have been going. Also for future reference 4.9 LSU sensors for ve Commodores 06-09, ford focus lw 2012-2015 and vw tiguan 2010 onward amongst others are compatible with most WB controllers.

Give them a call and ask mate. Best way. Generally from what I've seen, those guys don't deal with shit boxes. There prices do seem a little ott for some stuff.

Burgers back, back again[emoji106]

Two of the big ones

Sell gtv and buy gtt. Easiest way to do it. Will save you a heap of work and part sourcing, be a better overall car and be more valuable. To convert your gtv properly will probably cost you more in the long run.

I have some stockies you can drift the crap out of. Lol

Yes that is from heat. I'm talking from experience, my original manifold turned blue like that after heaps of track days. It had warped and was stuck on the studs. I had to remove all the studs to get it off. You want one that's more of a rusty sort of colour all over

Don't know if it would be any good like that but that manifold is pretty blue which means it's been exposed to extreme heat. I'd keep looking for something in better condition. You would want to check that the mating surfaces to the head and turbo are flat also.

Looks like a standard lower half with a custom/home made upper half.

I see no issues with this picture. Sorry I can't be of any more assistance.

Probably won't pass with any of those if rwc tester is 100% by the book. ECU is hidden so shouldn't be a problem. Remove hand controller if fitted. Remove/hide boost controller You can try your luck with the steering wheel and seats and see if they pick on them.

Ive used ebay radiators in many cars and never had an issue, not even on the racetrack where any deficiency or weakness would show. Unless you're building a super high hp engine i wouldn't think twice. Ebay ftw.

Which is why 8374 makes sense. Isn't that right Grant??

Are the adaptors to suit 350mm evo X front disc or 320mm earlier evo front disc?

So when is the EFR being delivered?

I've thought about it but that would mean removing my carbon boot lid and adding extra weight and drag. Will definitely consider when the times aren't improving but would rather keep the carbon boot lid in place and get an aftermarket wing made that isn't mounted on the boot itself.

Also needs proper LSD, front splitter, bigger brakes and some new tyres. Unfortunately don't think any of that is going to happen any time soon coz street car. I should be able to do around a flat 1:50 around PI without any aero anyway. Might just try improving my driving for now. Seat time is king. When the times stop improving, thats when i'll start looking to make some enhancements.

Also put the car on the weighbridge. 1383kg around 20ltrs fuel, no rear seats and boot trimmings. Forgot the jack and tools in there so could have been 5kg less. Around 1500 with me and decent fuel load in it. The intima type d's performed spot on and I had no issues whatsoever with braking other than braking too much coz scared. Was tipping in to turn 1 around 170 and holding it. Some guys go in at 190. Scary stuff.

See, why buy Evo

Headed out to Phillip Island yesterday. Was a successful day, no major dramas bar a cooler pipe that popped off in 1 of the sessions. Managed a new PB lap time of 1:54.41 which is roughly what i was estimating. The car ran strong and the catch can remained empty after 30+ lap (I was getting a fair amount of blow by at sandown but i think it was because the sump was overfilled too much). Was only 40 cars entered for the day, so there was plenty of track time, could have done closer to 40 laps if i didn't pop the cooler pipe and had some more fuel, I skipped out on the last session. My dash cam played up, so unfortunately i dont have footage of the best lap. The only footage i have is of a 56.6. I also recently bought a qstarz gps logger to use with race chrono and am happy to report it is extremely accurate vs natsoft. Data and video below