admS15

Doesn't take Greg long to do anything. Especially destruction, that's his specialty. You shouldn't base your thoughts on Gregs experiences. I'm sure he'll tell or has told you that personally.

New boxes are available through just jap for 3k, in stock, no waiting. Jeez, i sound like a jj marketing dude. Thats the second time i've mentioned them in 24hrs. If there is any hard parts damaged in op's existing box, brand new starts looking attractive.

Dude you said on the previous page drag only and daily. Wtf. So if you intend on driving it at all on the road you would be a fool to remove vct. Clearly u have your mind made up. Good luck to you but my crystal ball says that you'll look back in the future and think those guys where right. So, will this thing be driven on the street or not? That should be what your decision is based around. Also vct will not hurt performance on the drag strip.

The man has a point but your welcome to ignore the advice and remove a fantastic engine feature coz racecar.

Just buy some splitfires from Just Jap. Around 600 ish from memory and they are a reputable seller who give warranty. You can fit them yourself, it's a fairly basic task. Stay away from remanufactured and cheap eBay crap and also the not so cheap yellow ones. OEM or splitfires are the common reliable choices.

Simples. Latest most refined model available and Paul Walker, F and F cult hero status. Pretty decent looking too.

Take it to a decent mechanic and have it checked out. Prepare yourself for bad news and be pleasantly surprised if it's something minor.

Kia cerato, 19990 brand new auto. A bit above 15k but if you test drive you'll probably buy. They do everything right for the price and dat 7 year warranty. Kind of look alright too.

Price? Auto, manual, any mods. How bout some information about the car.

Looking good[emoji106]

What was the max torque figure @Lithium?

Also helps to deglaze bottom end bearings

Mustn't have been a skyline either. Rb's love 10k everyday.

Awaiting results on AR1. Btw I'm still using those A050 super softs. Done 3 events so far. Look to have 1 or 2 more track days left in them.

10k is where it's at

I have a spare 1 i think. Pm me with an offer

^very nice fit indeed. Was the compressor cover rotated so the outlet was closer to standard? Cheers.

@Lithium is a spacer required between housing and manifold for the 7064?

Will leave quite a few with a wtf expression on their face[emoji106]

If your ever around dandenong , I can happily take you for a spin. Yeah Xr6t's and v8's cruise nicely at those rpm but with an rb25 the closest you'll get to that will be a z33 6spd box, will need bulk $ to do that. Could always just put an ls1 with t56 in it, lol.

+Turbo

Ok at 1450 you are around the same weight as an r33 gtst. As a compromise ratio for street and track I would recommend 4.11 will be good at everything but great at nothing, lol. My own car runs a r33 highflow turbo, full boost by 3500rpm, 4.11 gears, weighs 1420kg, I daily drive it during the week and circuit race it whenever I can. On the street it's almost perfect. On the circuit, I wish it had 4.3 so I could hold 3rd gear around slower corners, I've thought about doing it but have decided to leave the 411 as a compromise. Top speed is probably somewhere around 260. I've had it up to 230 at sandown at roughly 6.5k. You should probably go for a ride in someone's r33 and see what stock gearing feels like. Where are you located?

@hjtrbo what car is all this in and how much is it expected to weigh? What exactly is the highflow turbo? Hypergear?

Stock 4.11 with rb25 5speed will sit at close to 3000 rpm at 110 km/h. If you're going to be doing a lot of street driving , I would stay with the 4.11, if drag racing , a higher number, for highway cruiser go lower . Do you already have the 3.89 and are you using rb25 gear bag?

I tried that and failed miserably. Ended up wrecking the valve. I could adjust the valve manually still but the ECU had no control over it. Funnily my car idled fantastic with the valve in that state, could even idle smoothly at 600 rpm, just wouldn't increase revs for AC and cold start. It was summer time so cold starts where still ok. Not sure how it would go in winter. I ended up replacing it with a 2nd hand valve and idle quality went back to being slightly erratic. I believe you are right and these valves can play a massive part in idle quality.