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Everything posted by admS15
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How many wasps did it produce Greg?
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Newbie in skyline scene, fuel consumption guidance
admS15 replied to Bob Virk's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
It is using too much. You should be able to get around 350-400km from 55ltr for a stock gtst. I would be getting the 02 sensor checked/replaced and checking/replacing spark plugs (ngk bcpr6es) no need for fancy expensive plugs, may as well put fresh oil in just for good measure so you know its been done. If bad fuel economy persists, you will need to look further. -
AD08R is not an R compund. It's equivalent to a Hankook RS3. A050/Z221 are R compound. Edit Ad08 is the predecessor to ad08r, that why it would be hard to find and would be old stock
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Selling my R33 Gtst for an Evo VIII. Wise move?
admS15 replied to Redknight's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Sounds like you'll be going from one problem to another. You'll struggle to sell your car if its running like shit and it makes no sense to buy something else with problems and high km. Fix yours and if your still not happy with it, sell and buy something in good nick without any issues. Good luck... -
That looks fine to me. Carry on with the mods.
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Standard turbo does not have a boost source fitting on housing.
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There should be a nipple on the intercooler pipe that goes to the throttle body. That should be the boost source. Doesn't sound like yours is like this. Remove the boost controller and run the line direct from your boost source to wastegate actuator and see if you get low boost.
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All the way down is full boost. Turn it anti clockwise a couple of turns and check boost again.
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Congrats Birds[emoji106] BTW smashed avo is so 2016. Avo latte is where it's at now.
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You've got to take torque figures from a dyno with a grain of salt (when they are unrealistically high 300rwkw and 1000nm, yeah nah). Hub dynos seem to be fairly accurate with torque readings though.The method i use to check an engines real torque output from a dyno graph is: Convert the figures to hp and foot pounds, power and torque will then be equal at exactly 5252 rpm. I then use the shape of the torque curve on the graph to determine where max torque is and then i can estimate up or down based on which way the curve goes, then convert back from ft-lbs to nm. For example, if an engine makes 350hp at 5252rpm, then it makes 350 ft-lbs at 5252 also. If peak torque was at 4900rpm, you estimate by how much higher the line is on the graph and you may come to a figure of say 370 ft-lbs. Convert that to nm and there is your real figure. Obviously you wont get an exact number but will be pretty damn close to the real figure. You also need the graph you're working from to be in rpm, for this reason it shits me when graphs are in road speed.
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Jacob's R33 Gtst S2
admS15 replied to kingtube69's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Try doing the plugs and if it still does it, do a log and check how much boost you're getting. I had a similar issue and I was overboosting just enough to go into the overboost (rich as f**k) part of the fuel map but not enough to trigger boost cut. Felt like misfire but new plugs and coilpacks didn't fix it. Had to turn boost duty cycle down a touch. I was looking at the golebys kit and ls coils but just went with splitfires for simplicity and got them cheap. Interested in your install write up if you end up doing the conversion[emoji106] -
Someone talk me into buying a r33
admS15 replied to hebaz's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
You want to be talked into an R33, ok here goes. Pros: The 33 has a better engine, gear box, brakes, chassis than a 32. Bigger guards that fit bigger tyres. They where the most produced skyline so they are cheaper and there is plenty of spare parts available from wrecks. Also have a better chance of finding a clean one. Cons: They are dog ugly and heavier than a 32. That's all I can think of. If you can find a 32 with an rb25 conversion with 33 box and the car is clean, then that is a winner. Would also have to consider engineering certs and mod plates for legality. Otherwise if you don't mind a little ugly, the 33 is the better overall car. Disclaimer: yes I own a 33 and love it. Kiwi, I also own a stagea[emoji12]. Op as long as the car is a turbo Nissan, you'll be right[emoji106]. -
Jacob's R33 Gtst S2
admS15 replied to kingtube69's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Could be possibly going into overboost if with your new actuator and settings, you are making a little more boost overall. -
Tyres you use(d) and how u would rate them
admS15 replied to ZigenGT's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Also contemplating ar1, would like details of said truck driver [emoji3] -
Tyres you use(d) and how u would rate them
admS15 replied to ZigenGT's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
So far, I've had federal rsr, Achilles 123s and the ad08r. The ad08r have lasted the best out of those. I'm happy with price and grip of rsr but the noise. NS2R is on my shortlist for sure, unless I find another ripper deal on Yokohamas. I'm even considering nankang ar1 as my next track tyre[emoji87] -
Tyres you use(d) and how u would rate them
admS15 replied to ZigenGT's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Interesting, Ive also been running ad08r. I find their grip on the street wet and dry acceptable and pretty phenomenal on the track (dry) for a street tyre. I've done 2.5 track days on them and around 7000km daily driving on track focused alignment and they still look to be around 75-80%. I did flip them after the track days and have since gone to A050 for track. I only managed to go 1.6 secs quicker on the A050. The difference was a lot more front end grip and a touch more rear. Greg, what year production where yours, are they the latest version? Overall I think the ad08r is an awesome all round tyre, but since I now have a second set of wheels now with dedicated track tyres, I'll probably just buy cheaper performance Street tyres next time around. Also interested in the NS2R's -
Also, although not viable for most. For someone chasing every single last hp available and no expense spared, this "could" be an option.
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Yes, I agree Bob but op did specifically ask about if it would be beneficial on a 25/30 build. I think Oem's would be unlikely to take this up as it's patented and they're not in the business of paying royalties. I am surprised they haven't come up with there own version though.
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I read it too and even if it does produce the gains, the cost makes it prohibitive to most (6-700us per cylinder + valves). You'd be better off investing in an EFR turbo for your 25/30, should provide plenty of bottom end poke without polyquad and you'd have change.
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I'm in Springvale south 3172. Pm me for details if it's not too far for you. Cheers Bill
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So you are returning to stock for reg purposes and then putting the aftermarket stuff back on? If so, I can lend you the bits I have, exh mani, metal intake tube, I also have a stock turbo and exhaust system if required.
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Angryrb's Project Series 1
admS15 replied to AngryRB's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Good to see this progressing to the final stages. I vote painting it black. -
That definitely works, I have stock sumitomos on my 33 gtst with 324mm gtr front rotors, 40 mm ducting, intima brake pads and penrite 10 tenths fluid. My lap times at Sandown which is heavy on brakes have been pretty good. Only issue is I kill the pads within 2-3 track days. Some V8 supercar spec alcons would be awesome to combat that but in my case they would be worth more than my car.