admS15

Next up, for removal was the rods but before I get to that, does anyone have an explanation for this orange/brown discolouration on the casting on one part of the crank. I wasn't too alarmed as I have seen it before on video of a engine builder putting together an RB. I can't remember what he said about it, possibly something to do with the casting process or factory heat treatment. Does anyone know anything about it? @GTSBoy

So I couldn't contain my excitement after picking up the block yesterday and got to stripping it down. Started by removing the sump and girdle to have a look at the mains. There was some wear that was clearly evident on the shells, not major but definitely requiring replacement.

A very special thanks to @Komdotkom for virtually donating the block to my cause. You're a living legend. SAU delivers once again although this was arranged on another forum. The great @fatz also inadvertently had a hand in it. Still SAU peeps. Fatz put up a couple of pics of saggy door seals in his thread about his 33 with the caption 'my 33 showing it's age'. I put up a pic in response with my exploded RB saying 'my 33 showing it's age'. Komdotkom then came along saying, hey I've got a good short block here and the rest is history. So thank you very much to you fine gentleman for helping a brother out and saving me from having to deal with flatbrimner drifters on marketplace who think they're selling gold plated, diamond encrusted RB's. You guys have restored some faith in humanity for me. Thanks again to Dan @No Crust Racing for his efforts and offers of help. It is very much appreciated. Feeling the SAU love.

Oops, too late.

Gentleman, I give you Vanilla RB25DET short, complete with 10 years worth of barn dust. Barn find. It's a solid base to work with.

I know of a bloke who restores those things here in Victoria. It can be done but would probably cost more than a new M3 comp.

So, when is the turbo and nos kit getting installed?

I paid $25 for 1 a couple of years ago. Happy to let it go for 5.5k

I hope the professional is a she, lol. I won't be doing any of the work, just trying to gather the parts to make it easier for the builder so he can actually accept the job. As the head was serviced not long ago, all I want is the bent valves and guides replaced and the damaged bit welded up and machined flat. Obviously not much work or $ in it for him. Probably around the same cost of a decent headjob at the fine establishment down the street 😂

Will talk to the builder again, see if he agrees to take it on.

Thanks Dan, head builder didn't have something for RB25. I think the in and ex are same ID and OD but different length. I came across an old SAU post where it was discussed that CA18 guides are similar and can be used but may need to be shortened. Nengun lists the OEM valve guides as same for CA, RB20, RB25, vq25, vq35, VR38 to name a few. Part numbers 13212-58S60, 13213-58S60 I've found a couple of aftermarket listings at a parts shop very local to me who sell them individually. I'm just going to get the head disassembled and get the old valves, guides as samples and go to the shop and compare. Probably safest bet as so many listings have incorrect info. There are OEM Nissan ones available but are pricey after shipping and who knows how long they'll take to turn up.

That was my line of thinking. Neo it is, I will be re using the arp headstuds I already have. Next stupid question, I've ordered new valves 4 new valves but am struggling with the valve guides. Are the in/exh guides the same or different? I see listings for kelford guides and same specs for in/ex but not sure if it's an error in listing. Any one know of a supplier where I can purchase 2 ex and 2 in guides?

I'm starting to order some bits and pieces that will be required. Is there any difference between NEO and Non NEO head gaskets? They have different part numbers. I can get the NEO one for $20 less and figure why pay extra if I don't have to but don't want to have some silly problem later on if there is in fact a difference that matters. NEO 11044-5L700 Non 11044-75T02 Yes I will be staying with OEM HG as I've never had an issue, won't be increasing power level and the block and head surface finish isn't as critical.

Garage art. Was thinking about using the crank as a table stand. May do. $1000, I know what I got

Crank 0 And my personal favourite, spot the bearings

Rod bearings, I think the order is mixed up. The worse one showing a line of copper is no.2 Pistons look good, all ring lands intact and probably would of done another 30 track days, maybe 😂

I believe the hunt for an engine may be over. I don't have it in my possession yet but will update when I do. It's a short block, meant to be in decent condition. At the very least will be a good block and crank hopefully. A massive thank you goes out to Dan @No Crust Racing who put the feelers out on his FB page and located a few engines I could have bought. One of those still may eventuate if the current option doesn't work out. Thanks to @GTSBoyand @Dose Pipe Sutututu for answering PM's with my dumb questions and just generally being helpful. Thanks to all that have commented with helpful suggestions. Thanks guys👍 Anyway as promised, pics of torn down old engine. Mains

I don't think you can blame the mechanic. He replaced what he thought and what is a common source of gearbox noise. It could be internal gearbox bearings that are causing your noise. Would have been an even bigger Bill. These boxes are a little noisy at low revs high load. I had a brand new one in mine before I broke it and it also had noise at low rpm. I'd just put up with the noise and don't load it up at low rpm. Gearboxe is trying to tell you it doesn't like it.

I made my own out of corflute to pass a rwc. Served that purpose but corflute is not suitable or strong enough to last the test of time. Took me a couple of hours to make, using a suitable material it can work but obviously won't be OEM JDM yo.

Thanks Dan. I'm not that desperate yet but if anyone you know has any sort of RB25 in pretty much any condition from complete running to rebuildable rotating assembly let me know. RB25DET is preferable but I'll consider anything that a solid engine can be built from. There is always the contact GTSboy gave me in Adelaide, not looking interstate yet as shipping can be a pain. Hmm, I should contact him anyway. Your around Albury aren't you? I could drive there and back if you manage to find something.

Everyone who is selling any form of RB right now seems to have the "I know what I got" attitude. I'm just about, out of options. One guy pretty much doubled his asking price overnight. At this point it seems like waiting 6 months (give or take a bit) for the bloke with the container coming from japland might be the best, almost only option. The BMW and Ferrari options above are more straightforward than dealing with some of these farkwits.

Cool, it must be bad idea time. How's this one? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/226258896763321/?mibextid=13AoS6

If some freakin idiot would actually sell me a half decent condition engine, this thing would be running next week. There are various engines for sale and various options that could eventuate if I could just get some sort of engine first. FML right now, lol

Surprisingly RB30 is obtainable for non drug money. My hand may be forced, lol. I completely stripped down the bottom end yesterday. Much carnage, no pics yet, take some tomorrow. The girdle was in 3 pieces, bits of block, rod, piston everywhere. 5 pistons and rods survived and are in great shape, ring lands all intact. A couple of bearings, I think it was towards the front showing some wear, otherwise the rest of it "was" looking pretty good considering the use and abuse it copped over the years. Just remembered, the other day when I was at the engine shop and showed the builder the pics of the busted rod, his verdict was that it was definitely rod bolt failure.

Yep, fair enough prices have gone up as less is available but trying to ask 3.5k for potential scrap is just ridiculous.