MerlinTheHapyPig

maybe he was talking about tyre ratings. Alot of jap tyres don't have the correct certification on them which makes them not legal in aus. they are perfectly fine though. I'm not aware of any wheel load ratings

yes, but going by what you said above, there are also cars you can drive that vic's can't e.g. Honda NSX, S2000, Porsche 911 etc.

have you checked power steering fluid level?

how much power do you plan on running? r33 gts-t brakes are fairly good, i'd be more concerned about getting a good brand of tyre keep in mind, if you can lock up your wheels braking, then your brakes are fine, it's your tyres.... (though don't make a habit of locking up your wheels, you'll flat spot the tyres) replace pads with a good brand, and check rotor thickness, replace if required.

they shouldn't pop out at all! it shouldn't matter how high/low the car is, i think, there are little clip things that go in a groove on the shaft that goes into the diff, i think they might not be installed or installed incorrectly. did you install it yourself? or get a workshop to install it? if the latter, take it back...

http://www.superpro.com.au/tein_performance_suspension.html

mate, i'm using 8kg/mm front and 8kg/mm rear spring on my skyline, i have never gone over a bump and had the wheels loose traction, or loose grip to the extent where it is dangerous. (including when i forgot to slow down for a speed bump one time...) The difference in grip between 5kg/mm springs and 8kg/mm springs isn't enough to make the car loose traction coming off a cat's eye in the road! that's a load of crap! And it isn't going to make the car dangerous to drive on the street. All this stuff is street legal in japan, whilst they do have better roads in general, the worst of their roads must be something similar to the worst of our roads and do you know of anyone who has had an accident caused by harder springs????? on a side note, as far as grip goes, if you drive on the cheapest tyres you can get, and then drive on really good tyres, there is a huge difference in grip and handling, you also get difference with different tyre pressures. I'd be more worried about these things before I were to worry about stiff suspension

2-way Mech Diff Coilovers Castor rods exhaust

http://www.gtsuspension.com.au/ deal in tien products... they are in vic but they should be able to point you in the right direction

it really comes down to personal preference, if you want the manual, it is probably going to be cheaper and better to find a manual skyline from the start than do a conversion. im my opinion, manual is better, I would never buy an auto skyline.

also suggest checking vacuum lines aswell. i had my skyline idling fine at ~700rpm and all of a sudden, it started idling at 1,200rpm or so, it turned out the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator had popped off. though, more than likely it's probably just not set correctly! so read the link above.

yeah, there is some debate over this, they are not legal in victoria.. however they are commonly used, and I haven't heard of any bad experiences with them, i mean as long as all the nuts are tight, it shouldn't be any different to having lower offset wheels on? I guess the centering could be an issue but i really don't know.

really? who? what rates are they using?...

8kgmm front and 6kgmm rear are a common combination, generally higher spring rates are preferred for drift, and you generally see cars with 8/6 and upward spring rates (in DA and D1), some people using rates as high as 17kg/15kg. It's more important to buy a good quality brand with appropriately matched spring/shock combination than it is to just go as high rate as possible. There really is no "right" spring rate, but softer rates such as on the SK group buy haven't really been tried for drift, you will also require swaybar upgrades as the stiffer springs tend to compensate for body roll (which you won't get with the softer ones). I'm not saying either one is superiour, I just haven't seen the SK susp tried for drift, and until i see someone on the track with this sort of setup or i try it myself, i can't recommend it over the "tried and true". You'll eventually want to get adjustable swaybars, but jap coilovers + stock swaybars are fine. suspension setup will also depend on what compomises you want to make in terms of streetability, comfort, tyre wear etc. so keep this in mind when choosing wheel alignment settings and shock/springs -- australian roads kill jap coilovers real quick.... especially if you drive in country a lot. For the budget drifter, a set of basic jap coilovers will serve you well (e.g. tien/hks hyperd / apexi n1 with 8kg/6kg or 10kg/8kg springs) drifting isn't really considered a speed event, max speed for most people will be top of 3rd, so around 130-140km/hr. Stiffer springs aren't going to compromise grip to the extent where high-speed stability will be a problem, just make sure your front tyres are good, alot of people use semi-slicks for fronts on track. You also don't tend to jump ripple strips etc. in drifting (as you do in circuit racing) which is a killer with hard suspension.... Wheel alignment settings are also important, if you have camber adjustment, pick a good compromise between handling and tyre wear, i'm running 2deg neg camber on the front and stock on the rear, 8deg positive castor, 1mm front toe out total. But i play around with those settings from time to time. on another note.... make sure your diff isn't stock.... consider it a safety mod! this is one of the most important things you will need to drift... i've seen accidents happen due to drifting on worn out viscous lsd's...

those VS-KF's that alex has require spacers to clear the brake calipers on S13's with 5stud / r33 brakes. Not sure about skylines, but probably a similar story there. If you are keen on those wheels, tell alex to test fit them on tim's car (that's me)... They fit andrews car (g-four) fine with 20-25mm spacers i think. So, what were the offsets for the rims on their own? and what size spacers? subtract the width of the spacers from the offset, and you have the correct offset, then use wheel/offset calculator.

that was before my respray, and previous owner had painted over 4-door tail lights. it looked really bad up close..... http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...uroline/kh2.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...uroline/kh1.jpg ^ those are a similar offset wheels, on the same car... (after respray)

As per topic title, I'm after an old-school SAFC for my daily driver (wouldn't use one on the skyline! but perfect for an older efi car...) like this... there must be a few floating around from people who have upgraded since! needs to have plug/loom

no-one on this forum really knows for sure, that's the sad state of affairs. I've used brake cleaner, but *apparently* it doesn't remove any carbon deposits (worked fine for my afm though) some people suggest using carby cleaner because it also removes carbon residue. other people claim this is bad because it leaves residue. BUT no-one can explain *what* the residue is, and how it is *bad*, so go figure!! look, brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner are both basically the same thing, they are alcohol based, and probably better than mineral based degreasers which can effect some fragile sensors etc. I'd try using them, and if you are having a specific problem and they don't fix it, try replacing AFM's Using Oiled pod filters (HKS powerflow / foam filters) tends to kill AFM's because the oil coats the afm contact causing bad things to happen.... so if you have one of these, best change it to something else.

yeah, you'll have guard problems these are some 18x10 +11's on my rears (with flared guards) (i put them on to test fit, i dont' drive it like this...) http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...12/IM000091.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...12/IM000081.jpg can't remember what the fronts were, but you'll probably have similar issues...

aim for around 8deg positive castor, you can usually get a bit more than this but you run the risk of damaging the control arm bushes To answer your question, you aim on getting as much castor as you can "safely", which is usually around 7-8 deg positive.

found these guides on doing compression test and leakdown test if anyone is interested... http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/compression.htm http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/leakdown.htm

yeah, motor is rooted. do the test again, record the results then squirt a couple of squirts of oil through the spark plug hole, if the compression increases, then it's your piston rings, if it doesn't then it's head gasket or valves make sure the engine is warm, all spark plugs are removed, fuel pump is disabled, and using wide-open-throttle when doing the test. getting a leakdown test done by a mechanic can pin point exactly where the cylinder is leaking from, not sure how to do them, i think you need special equipment.

sounds good mate, if you are still maxing out the afm, consider upgrading to z32 or q45 afm, you should be able to get the dude who tuned it to do another map for the different afm, changing afm's is really simple

keep in mind, gauges vary. anything above 140psi is fine, as long as it's more or less the same between cylinders.

i thought the tiptronic gearboxes were auto's with the + and - just controlling the shifting same way as you would with 1-2-3-D etc. though i've driven a toyota MR2 with a proper manual box with automatic clutch, but i think the skyline tip-tronic's were plain automatic transmissions.