MerlinTheHapyPig

tyre pressures inspect all boots and bushes, suspension components, steering rack etc for loose bolts / wearing / leaking / play check for oil leaks check tyre pressures & tread depth check brake pad thickness and rotor thickness air filter check all lights etc. if you're changing water pump and sh1t, may as well change thermostat alot of the stuff you mentioned only needs checking, like i wouldn't bother replacing most of the hoses unless they are showing signs of wearing, i wouldn't bother changing powersteering fluid, i wouldn't do timing belt etc. unless it's been 100,000kms since last done i'm assuming you're doing a 100,000km service? timing belt/waterpump/oil seals/pully's are all pretty major, but i can see your logic if you're going to do the timing belt, may as well do all the other things you'll have access to while you're at it. If the timing belt has been done less than 100,000kms ago, i wouldn't worry about the above stuff.

you can buy a set of bolt extractors and get them out yourself, it's pretty easy once you have the bolt extractors. just get a centre punch, and punch a indentation in the middle of the snapped stud. Drill a small drill bit into the stud to create a pilot hole, and use the correct size bolt extractor on it and comes out easy! the bolt extractor thingo's have a reverse thread, so you screw them into the hole you made with a socket wrench, and as it screws in, the stud will start turning this is what you need, you can probably buy them from hardware stores/supercheap/repco etc. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SCREW-EXTRACTOR-HAN...1QQcmdZViewItem

heaps better than what mate? you havn't been able to justify your reasons for sh1t canning the emanage, how are you able to compare if you haven't used both of them? you are just going on assumptions! don't be fooled into thinking an emanage is less programmable than a full replacement ecu, compared with a powerfc you can do pretty much all the same stuff.

you can get by with an SAFC2 with the mods you have, if all you want to do is get your A/F ratios right, but that's about all they can do E-manage is still a piggyback, but it's superior to the SAFC2 becuase you can adjust ignition timing. i don't think this comment is justified, can you back this up with any examples of cars you have driven? and if so, how do you know it just isn't the tuner? whilst a powerfc is superior to an emanage, they both allow you to do the same thing... adjust timing and fuel. now powerfc is easier to tune, but given enough time and an experienced tuner, an emanage can be tuned equally as well. So the question would more come down to features and ease of use. my personal preference in ecu's leans towards the wolfv4 units, but I almost bought a powerfc for rb20 the other day because i found one for a price i couldn't turn up... At the end of the day, as long as it allows you to change timing and fuel, then it'll do the job. Anyway, in general i'd prefer a full plug-in or stock remap over a piggyback anyday..... save up and go the pfc mate!

mine was out. i set coilovers based on number of threads on the adjustment, but the wheel to guard measurement was like 2cm out. probably due to hitting a few ripple strips every now and then... just use wheel-guard and adjust as required

hmmmmmmmm when i got a few things done on my car and recent wheel alignment, I asked for 9 deg positive castor. They said they could only go 7 deg because they were worried about the control arm bushes. now i see what they were worried about! ..... anyway, i don't care, next alignment, i'm going 9 deg. it's worth replacing the bushes every 6 months!!

perhaps wheel alignment is out, or car has been in an accident in past life, or guards / front bar is warped/different.

safc's are pretty simple to tune, expect far less than a proper computer (fuel & timing eg. powerfc etc.). Basically what they will do is run it up on the dyno (or road tune), and tune the fuel map. that's basically all the safc can do (apart from removing speed/rev limiters etc.). You'll probably get a bit more power, but the main advantage is it ensures you aren't running too lean, which can save you from blowing an engine! If you have an aftermarket turbo, i'd suggest at the very least safc. Though, stock ecu remap is far better. it would take me 1-2 hours to tune one (i've never done it before but it's like an 8x8 map for fuel only or something, so how hard can it be...), i've never seen a quote by an actual workshop so that could vary. Why don't you just ring a few tuning workshops in your area??

should have mentioned... on gts-4 or gtr you cant gts-t, castor rods are identical

maybe, but the TP calculation includes engine load, the engine load i guess, would be the VQ value (voltage quotient) which is calculated from the AFM voltage (looks it up in a table -- VQ table) this value is used in the TP calculation, which one of the axis on ecu timing and fuel maps, so some people refer to it as the "load axis". The fuel map works out fuel on an enrichment/enleanment from 14.7:1 ratio. So .20 on a fuel map represents 14.7:1.2 so 12.25:1 this is where TP value is used to work out how long injectors need to open to deliver the 14.7, then the value in the fuel table scales this value to give the desired A/F ratio anyway, most people don't really have to worry about how all this works, unless you are doing the tuning.

isn't that what i wrote more or less? maybe my wording was a bit confusing, i think i said "volume of air/fuel" when i should have said "volume" Sorry mate, so far from right it's not funny :-p (now we're even) TP is Theoretical Pulsewidth (when talking in tuning terms) It's a mathematically calculated value by the ecu used to determine the duration the injectors need to open to deliver a 14.7:1 A/F ratio. It's something along the lines of... (VQ value * Injector K value / (rpm * 256/60)) / number of injectors ^ can't remember where the 256 and 60 values came from, I was copying formula from a spreadsheet and working backwards...

-machining out parts of the head increases the combustion chamber area which changes the compression ratio compression ratio is volume of air/fuel before compression compared with after (i think).... so 8.5:1 is the ratio in which the volume of air is compressed in the cylinder -injector timing, you may be thinking ignition timing, which is where the spark occurs, angle is the crankshaft angle. BTDC is "Before top dead centre" so if timing is expressed as for example, 12degrees BTDC (which is 12 degrees before the piston reaches top of it's travel on compression stroke) -injector duty, put simply, this is how hard the injectors are working. at 100% they are at their max capacity, if your injectors are at over 90% duty cycle (at high load), it's a good idea to get bigger injectors. -load point, probably talking about where in the car's map the ecu is reading timing advance and fuel enrichment values from. (ECU reads data from a 3 dimentional table, RPM vs TP -- TP is the engine load (theoretical pulsewidth)

you'll need lower offsets to fill guards properly use wheel offset calculator http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html

swap castor rod from other side, see if that fixes it, if so replace castor rod & get a wheel alignment probably a good idea also... I came off a ripple strip sideways and bent front left upper control arm, we measured camber and +1.5 degrees before i replaced it!.......

I think redline's normal manual transmission oil, is redline MT-90, which is what I used in my skyline box. Perhaps use this on newer boxes.

this can be unsafe yes, the more you space them the less thread you will have. What most of the aftermarket tie rod ends use is a little spacer thing, which screws in (and has it's own thread), to avoid this problem. I'm not sure how safe the aftermarket solutions for extra steering lock are, my understanding is the spacers change the angle of the tie rod. I'll be installing spacers on my tie rods shortly, might post pics

water usually leaks into the boot through a broken seal on the tail lights. to fix, just remove the tail-lights and put some silicon sealant around where the original sealent is (the gooey black stuff), and put it back, this should fix it. don't bother taking it to a dealer, just a mechanic would be fine. Not too sure on the clutch problem, but i can imagine a warped flywheel or farked clutch could cause what you describe

the engine driven fan uses a viscous clutch to prevent it from spinning too fast, with the car off you should be able to turn the fan freely, if it's stuck/siezed then that's probably the cause of your problem.

if you don't know what you're doing, take it to an autoelectrician to install when "tapping in" to wires, you can either buy these little clip things that you can use (autobarn sell them, probably dick smith etc. also), or you use some pliers to cut through the insulation and slide it back on each side to expose the wire, then wrap the new wire around it and wack some solder on there and electrical tape it up.

usually wheel bearing causes this.

^ what makes you say that?

oh yeah, hicas is the nissan version of All-wheel steering. (i.e rear wheels are steered slightly in an attempt to make the car more idiot proof / maintain stability.)

usually caused by - low power steering fluid, or aftermarket steering wheel/boss kit without the steering angle sensor common problem, do a search.

thanks for the reply mate, very helpful pity i can't find out how my shocks are made without pulling them apart!!

discopotato (GT28RS) is less laggy than GT2871R here are the specs for people who are intersted GT28RS HP 350 Compressor 60mm A/R .60 Trim 62 Turbine 53.85 AR .86 Trim 76 GT2871R HP 400 Compressor 71mm A/R .60 Trim 56 Turbine 53.85mm AR .64 Trim 76 (2 versions of gt2871r one has .64 A/R on turbine, one has .86 A/R on turbine, all other specs are the same)