MerlinTheHapyPig

Trying to choose a turbo for my rb20det, i'm after something with great response, and reasonable power. I'm sort of tossing up between the gt28rs and gt2871r, and i'm leaning towards the gt2871r being a drift car, i'm hoping to avoid loosing the nice response of the stock turbo, but i also want better power. I've also been told the t518z is similar to the gt2871r, so are there anyone using these turbo's who have some comments or possibly can post a dyno chart? particularly interested in people who use their cars for drift. i'm aiming for around the 180kw mark without running too much boost (around 1 bar) i've been passenger in a car recently with a gt2871r and power delivery was very very smooth, i was quite impressed, but the car was on stock boost and no tune, it was hard to gauge without driving the car myself or drifting it. Alot of drifters who use laggyish turbo's can deal with it on the track for high speed, big entry sort of work, but i want something that is ok for the tight technical corners (lag tends to be a killer here if you can't keep it on boost), where you are on and off throttle at 4000-6000rpm.

158kw from an sr20det at 9psi is nothing to write home about, i wouldn't attribute that to the tune either, you could tune it with any ecu and get that power figure, nothing special about the microtech i've seen 175kw from an sr with a t28bb at 10psi with a powerfc, and it had a great torque curve. I disagree that any aftermarket ecu has a "flaw" that makes it idle like crap, or run poorly. You'll probably find it's installed incorrectly or tuned incorrectly or one of the engines sensors is broke. there is logic to the multiple throttle bodies argument, and perhaps a map sensor based ecu could be the cause of ecu non-suitability. i mean the only person who is supporting Microtech hasn't used them on an rb26....

if you are still having problems, contact Trent Hewitson (username autobarn on www.nissansilvia.com forums), via email, i think he publish his email address, just search for some of his threads (doesn't respond to PM) he sells the emanage packages, and has a lot of experience installing and tuning powerfc's, not sure if he's done emanage's but he's likely to know something about them if he sells them...

looks like aftermarket lower control arm don't you just love jap translations!!

i also have a question, because "valving compexity" seems to get mentioned a bit. How can you tell if a shock has "simplistic valving"?, why is "complex valving" better?, what aspects of shock valving are considered desirable? how do we know if i have x brand shock if it has good valving or not? Sydney Kid, i know you always mention this when the "jap shock" and "high spring rate" arguments come in to question, however your comments on shock valving seem to be taken as gospel, however i never seem to see any elaboration on the topic. Say, compare the bilstein valving from the group buy with Tien super street mentioned above. can you explain the differences between the valving in the two specific models? (sorry for the long list of questions, but this topic has always been bugging me, and i need someone to explain it for me)

i suggest just be careful not to get paint stipper near the brake pistons, because it will probably eat away any rubber seals that get in contact with it.

standard rate for jap coilovers is 8kgmm/6kgmm for front and rear usually this is considered too stiff for australian streets, so maybe something a bit softer is in order. Fulcrum distribute Tien Super street coilovers tuned for australian conditions, might be worth a look.

handbrake off? there is 2 threaded holes in the middle of the rotor. you screw bolts in them (can't remember size) to push off the rotor.

worst case scenario you can replace just the top plates, they are separate from the shocks my advise to you would be to give these guys a call, they reco shocks and should know where you can buy replacement bearings / what you'll have to replace The shock absorber reconditioners ph (07) 3808 2455 www.shockreco.com.au

on my r32 gts-t this is what 18x10 +11 offset rims look like, so use the calculator to see how you'd go. mine are stock rear guards with flaring. also, the fronts in that picture are where r32 gtr rims will sit on stock front gts-t guards. 16x8 +30 offset hope this helps!

those quantums are identical to mine, except mine have damper adjustment. (the damper adjustment is through an allan key socket through the tops of the shock shafts.)

have a look at garrett gt2871R, you might have to do a bit of research in terms of fitment for rb20det, but i don't imagine you'll run into too many problems, most of the people i know running garrett turbos' have them on sr20's and i haven't done the research into what will fit on rb's yet, maybe someone here knows.... But anyway gt2871r is something to consider (400hp compared with gt28rs 350hp). Still nice and responsive but with a bit more power, and not as laggy as gt30r (500hp)

it means, fronts wheels stick out 3.3cm, and rears 4.5cm from whatever you punched in as "original" rims Youll have to look on your car to see where the edge of the rim will sit in relation to the guards, some guard rolling or light flaring may be required, but I really don't know with r34's.

well, your username is driftmonkey so wouldn't you be happier with a RWD skyline anyway? probably your dash cluster has been changed. If it has the gts-4 badge on it, build plate will probably be HNR32, and won't tell you anything. just check for driveshafts on front wheels and that will tell you. or you can just go to an empty carpark and f**k around for a bit, you should be able to tell pretty quick if it's rwd.

what is width of rim? offset is meaningless without rim width

i had the exact same problem. replacing the afm fixed it 100% (tried cleaning it but no go). do you have a hks-style foam pod filter? they are usualyl the cause because the oil you use on the air filter wrecks the afm.

looks like you have a pretty good setup there! yeah i've been drifting regularly for a bit over a year now, most of my friends slide S13's, if you ever head down to vic pop me a pm... as far as sourcing those parts, try www.garage-13.com

yeah, i thought that might be the case. it's hard to find info on them, since there is no model number on the shocks, and as far as i know they don't have a website or anything. maybe they've gone out of business or something.

Just to go back on topic! I have a question about my Quantum suspension, if anyone here can tell me about this... you can see in second picture I posted in my post above, top shock the silver alen key thing on the bottom, i've been told this adjusts the rebound dampening as far as i understand, top = compression dampening, bottom = rebound dampening so, how should i go about adjusting both the settings? and what sort of balance am i looking at? I have no idea what settings the bottom ones are on, i'll have to check, any info would be great! cheers... tim

not required in a manual, because it doesn't heat up as much as auto's do. Torque convertors in auto's generate heat due to the way that they store/convert energy

depending on how much cash you have available. Tie rod ends with the spacers are the most important thing to get to increase steering lock Some more camber will help, I suggest you go for the some Noltec or Whiteline camber bushes, or the camber arms. drift wise... -do you have aftermarket castor rods and running at least 8 degrees positive castor? -a little bit of toe-out can also help -aftermarket control arms are an expensive option, this would be one of the last drift-related mods i'd consider. What driveline & suspension mods do you have already? do you have a mech diff / welded? hicas lock? castor rods? coilovers? stabiliser bars? those are some things to look at before getting aftermarket control arms

they will most likely be height adjustable also, look at the spring seat, it should be a collar which you can turn to move it up or down (the shock body will be threaded to allow this) If you have trouble seeing what i mean, jack it up and take off the wheel.

intersting... thanks for the replies, I don't know much about the dude who I bought the motor from, but i believe it was running an aftermarket turbo and higher than stock boost ~180-200kw or so from memory. No idea if he granny drove it, I'll be curious to see what the head from the rb20det in my car looks like when i eventually blow it and have to change it, because i don't daily drive it, it's a dedicated drift car. what would be the best course of action to reco the head?

Now, this is the first engine i've pulled apart so sorry if this is a bit of a newb question. Refer to pictures, I'm wondering if this carbon buildup on the valves and top of cylinder is normal? (piston surfaces are like this also) I remember helping my dad rebuild a motor years ago, and it was nowhere near this bad. I'm trying to diagnose a possible problem with this rb20det I bought (it apparently had a misfire, but they couldn't figure out what was wrong with it). Anyway, is this sort of carbon buildup a bad thing? The spark plugs were in similar shape, isn't this ment to mean it was running fairly rich? anyway. like i said i don't really have a clue, but i'd like to have a rough idea of what's going on before i drop it off at the engine builder.....

you'll also find that most oil filter relocation kits (or oil cooler kits) have a sandwich plate which goes between the oil filter and the mount, most people tap aftermarket oil temp/oil pressure gauges in here.