MerlinTheHapyPig

racv roadside assist time... like actiondan said, you want to minimise damage, work out what workshop you are eventually going to get to rebuild the motor and tow it there. I've had friends who have driven home on a blown motor before (big end bearing from memory) from calder, but an sr20det which we blew last week (same problem as yours) we tried to drive home and it kept getting worse until we had to pull over. It depends on if you wanna get a whole new bottom end or rebuild your one. Having said all that, it may not be a bearing, but from what you describe this is most likely what's happened.

you have done a bearing by the sounds of it. Get bottom end checked out!

yeah, would be good for avoiding defects, but little else. I think you'll find there isn't much market for this, unless you can make it very cheap, most people won't bother. I guess there are a few rice boys out there who might find it cool, but for me, the expense vs convenience would be hard to justify. $2-3,000 pays for a lot of defects! try nissansilvia.com, there are a lot of excessively low s13's going around.

i thought the stock ecu leans it out automatically when cruising?

yes and no, it'll idle higher because you've cleaned it!, so you really should reset the idle properly. Though if you're lazy you can probably get away with just using the screw to adjust it.

it has height and damper, what is rebound? here are a couple of pics.... http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...um/DSCN0634.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...um/DSCN0633.jpg

I have a set of quantum shocks in my r32, they are very good (mine are quite hard, they have 8kg/mm springs in them). There isn't much info out there on them I think Trial japan use them in cars over there. Most of the Quantum stuff you see are on Porsche's and stuff!!! They are an english brand. (I'm in Bentleigh, Vic, if you like i'd be happy to show you how my car feels with them on if you're in melbourne.)

bingo... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=110431&hl=

yep you just take off the hoses connected to it, and those 4 bolts, someone posted a very detailed thread on how to clean your aac a week or two ago, have a search for it, but it was very thorough and if you need to replace it, pm me, because i don't need the one in that pic!

i'd go the redline (yes, it's fully synth) personally, but that's just because i have a thing for redline gearbox oil... there is probably no harm in using the semi-synthetic, the redline is probably better for your gearbox though.

they are very soft, and not too grippy.. we used them on a drift day one time, destroyed them in 2 laps, nice smoke show though......

rebuild's aren't that hard, all they do is disassemble the master cylinder, clean everything in metho, check the bore and then replace all of the o-rings and seals etc. (if bore is pitted or worn, have to replace master cylinder...) up to you, but it can't hurt going and getting a quote...

do you have software to tune the ECU? if so, hook it up to a laptop and check what size injectors it's set to. This can cause problems so check this and see if it makes any difference. Tuning software can probably display sensor readings from the engine, so you may also be able to check if anything's not working.

auxillary air control sounds good! damn acronyms in any case. this is the sucker... (no i don't keep random intake manifolds in my house. i just happened to have just pulled apart a motor and needed light to take a photo) also, if you're having problems with it, i have the relavent sections on how to diagnose problems with aac valves from when someone else asked this question if they're any use... http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...cvalve/aac1.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...cvalve/aac2.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...cvalve/aac3.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...cvalve/aac4.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...cvalve/aac5.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...cvalve/aac6.jpg hope this helps, cheers

see my post in your other thread...

don't know what it stands for. AAC valve controls the idle It is on opposite side of the manifold/throttle body thingo to the thing you have pointed out in the picture, i'll go take a pic and post it up for you

aac valve is opposite side

call up any brake place, if they can't do it, they can point you in the right direction (and will usually do a free safety check & give their opinion of your problem) Alot of people don't bother rebuilding master cylinders these days because it's often cheaper to just replace...

price over phone from bd4's for tuning (SR20det w/ aftermarket turbo, full tune from scratch) was $600 this is very reasonable, from memory, price quoted from ICE performance (in melbourne) for install and tune of power fc was around $1k mark for sr20det with aftermarket turbo... (install of power fc and z32afm takes 30 minutes or so, so most of that price would be tune, not to mention powerfc's would take less time to tune since they have a smaller map size!!) If i was in sydney, i'd happily use bd4's the guy i spoke to on the phone when i enquired about the fcon's was very helpful! pity i don't live in sydney though...

most people i've spoken to using them in drift cars, go for either "All Round" or "grip" As someone mentioned above, and has been confirmed with a few people i've spoken to who have used them in "drift" setup, they are stupidly slippery and becomes more of a hinderance than a benefit if the car is properly set up in the first place. Any problems with understeer or problems loosing traction for drift should be overcomed using different wheels/tyres or different stabiliser bar settings.

you dont need to remove the hub! just take off the caliper and brake rotor. then bash it out with a hammer, and it slides out through the back. you may have to rotate the hub to the right spot where you will have room behind it for stud to come out. Rears are harder because they have drum brake assembly, but you still won't need to remove the hub itself.

gold = version 3, however there are a few different version (3.0, 3.1, 3.2) silver = version 2

Fulcrum distribute a version of Tien Superstreet Damper, which is designed for Australian conditions. Which includes height and damper adjustment. This is probably your best bet if you can afford to buy new. They won't be as hard as the jap versions. www.tein.com.au

what sort of clutch do you have? is it when in gear or neutral?

I would have suggested bushes. but that's not the problem, check if your wheel bearings are ok, and that driveshaft boots aren't leaking or if there is play in the driveshafts. Jack up car from rear, and shake each wheel to check for movement. though if the oil made it worse, then it's probably diff related. Consider - shims on diff install, driveshafts & pinion etc. I worked on an rx7 diff where you actually have a thread to position the centre between the bearings so that you can adjust the amount of movement / space between the pinion and the ring gear -- apparently you have to be quite precise in this adjustment to avoid damaging the diff. Skyline diffs have fixed shims to do this, so might be a long shot, but shims may have worn down or installed wrong. just throwing up some ideas! Some people find aftermarket mech 2-ways are quite harsh when they lock up, you may just have a fresh 2-way and it's all normal. Also mech diff's which have not been bed in correctly when new can be a bit noisier than normal.