MerlinTheHapyPig

hmm, interesting. i still have my old afm, might see if i can get it back to life!

don't know, i just got a second hand one. if you have a hks foam pod filter, change it, the cause of this problem is commonly the oil that you use on the pod filters f**ks up the afm, cleaning it doesn't help!

it's a faulty afm you can get new from nissan, or second hand for around $100. r33 gts-t and r32 gts-t's are the same. I had this problem, afm solved it completely. Are you using a HKS Foam pod filter?

cusco are a good brand, just check condition, check for leaks, inspect shafts for signs of scoring http://www.cusco.co.jp/english/e_cont.html ^ you may find some info on cusco website have a look around..

if you're on a budget, you can probably get away with the stock ecu, but it would be a good idea to get it on the dyno and check that your afr's aren't dangerously lean or anything. There isn't much point in increasing boost with stock turbo's, and if you want to, a manual boost controller does the job (look in forced induction section there is a 20 page thread on a really good, cheap one...) 3inch combined front & dump pipe from just jap is a worthy investment, and top it off with 3inch high-flow cat. You have intake and exhaust sorted out. If dyno reveals you are running dangerously lean, or you want to upgrade turbo's, that's probably the point where you get an aftermarket ecu, Power FC's are a good option because they are cheap, and plug-in. If you have the cash lying around, just grab an aftermarket ecu now, since it's something that you're eventually going to want anyway, and you will get a bit more power from a good tune, even with minor mods.

even if you do get the software, they have a special dongle that you also need..... farking hks are gay, if i buy an ecu i expect to be able to tune it myself with relative ease..... oh well!!

anyone?

there were r32's released with ca18det's in them and I think they were 4-stud, when I was looking for a car to buy one of the car's j-spec showed me was a ca18det from memory, it was explained to me at the time that these were some sort of production test release, which is probably why you can't find much info on them. I'll try and dig up the pictures that I was sent of the car...

curious, do gtr's with brembos come with a different master cylinder then non-bremo gtrs?

^ yeah... what he said.. if you don't have 33 gtst rims, i have some you can try if you want... pm me

whiteline adjustable swaybars... www.garage-13.com sells them for $189 each ($390 a pair)

I have a couple of questions on tierod ends I wondered if any of the suspension gurus can help me out. (It's for a track car) firsly, this is a picture of the sort of thing i'm looking at http://www.garage-13.com/supernowfcrods.jpg those are a different brand though... i think i'm getting Uras Tie rod ends... firsly, are s13 and r32 gts-t tie rods interchangable? secondly, i've been told they add steering lock, what other changes in steering (and benefits) do they provide? and, as far as install goes, is there any adjustment... and also any advantages in getting a tie rod + end set such as... http://www.garage-13.com/teintierodset.JPG and are there any adjusment etc. in them? thanks -Tim

just another comment on this, it took a bit of experimenting to find the right combination of damper adjustment to get something that worked with my driving style and car setup, but since i've discovered a "good" setting to use, it never get's changed The only reason I adjust damper (now that i've found the correct settings) is to make it a more comfortable ride when driving the car on the road.... my normal settings are 4/10 (4th softest) on front and 10/10 on rear (full hard), if i make the front 3/10 it makes the car spin happy, and if i make the rear 9/10 i start to get understeer (as i mentioned before i was suprised such a small change would make that much difference). I think, it doesn't hurt to have damper adjustment, provided you're not making an overall compromise. And maybe i am in the 99% or whatever, but I can tell the difference in how the car handles when I make an adjustment! and even if it's just to find the correct initial settings which work for your driving style, even if you don't touch them after that, I say it is a worthwhile feature.

yep, as mentioend, to get the rocker covers off you just have to remove the crossover pipe, there is one screw from memory on intake side where the mouth of the throttle body is, which was hard to get to, but not too much trouble.

http://www.driftshop.com.au/suspension_files/subframe.JPG ^ these are the ones I have.... is install different from the whiteline ones? I need to know the correct layout for "Drift" and "all round"........

ok, thanks for the replies, but i'm even confused now... the kit I have (alloy pineapples) has 4 large split, and 4 small not-split... (the smaller ones are the thicker ones yeah?) so go figure!!! I might give them a try in "drift" mode and if it's too spin happy i'll change them to "all round" also, which way around do they go?

i find different damper settings effects handling quite dramatically. For drift, i have my normal damper settings, and to give you an example, one time I changed my front's 1 turn softer (damper settings on my shocks are 8 full turns, so around 12% softer), and I was spinning all over the place. So, they are very handy to fine-tune over/understeer without going to the bother of changing stabiliser bar settings. But like SK just mentioned if going damper adjustable means an inferior quality shock, its probably not worth it!

I wonder if someone can answer a related question for me on this. There are 3 setups you can use pineapples for, Drift, All round, Drag I think sydneykid posted a "where to install them" for each setup, but my question is... The pineapples i bought came with 4 small rings and 4 large rings, if i'm setting it up for drift, do i use 2 small ones and 2 big ones and just not use the other 4? or do I use all 8?? And to anyone who uses them for "drift", how much does it effect oversteer? I'm wondering if i should just use the 'all round' setup for them, becuase i'm not having any major understeer problems, and i dont want to make the car too spin-happy!

just to add. yes you might struggle to find an out-of-the-box solution for rb26dett. checking their website, i don't think they have a kit for it, which means you'll most likely have to manually wire it up. Which would be a pain!! in any case, i really don't see the problem with using a MAP sensor, what you and sk are saying is true, but when examining a couple of graphs i've plotted from my car's TP vs RPM with boost overlaid on the graph, in most cases when boost is constant, TP is also constant (using afm as the input source), so it doesn't really matter if it's a 20:1 mapping or whatever, there is only one line on the map that it needs at full boost..... this might not be true on other cars, but for all the data i've got from my car it seems to be the case.

wolf3d accepts an external map/maf sensor input it regards it's own map sensor as the "internal sensor" So all you do is wire up the afm to the external input, i don't imagine you need anything special to do this. there are 3 pins on the ecu you need to use... -signal +5v -signal ground -external MAF/MAP sensor So once you have that set up, ecu will let you choose between Internal/External for -Primary load source -transient sensor (to detect enrichment and enleanment on fast load changes) not sure about 2 afm's, but you should be able to just wire up one of the afm's and change the relavent table.... nothing wrong with doing that

like i just said.... wolf3d can use airflow meter if you want to set it up that way.....

ah, wondered about aux outputs on power fc, because never seen it being used, thanks for clearing that up... wolf3d can be set up to use either MAP / MAF / TPS for load reference. (actually you can use MAP as primary sensor, and MAF as transient sensor to detect fast changes in load)

actually i spoke to the place that tunes them, and their prices are very reasonable, don't know if it's worth driving to sydney though!

actually, without getting into some sort of argument here on powerfc vs other ecu's Im not such a fan of powerfc's either, whilst they have their advantages in being a plug-in replacement ecu, they also aren't very flexible. and only have 20x20 mapping... (compared with wolf 3d v4 for example which has 16 load points and rpm points every 125rpm (which between 0-8000rpm equates to 64 points eg. 16x64 point mapping...) Also i don't think power fc's can control additional injectors, thermofans, aux outputs, etc...

I wouldn't worry about finding a "good" tuner for tuning an SAFC. Any bum off the street with a wideband o2 sensor can tune them In fact, you could road tune them just as well as on a dyno. Maybe try sam (dr_drift), im not sure what he charges, but $150 an hour is about right for dyno time.