MerlinTheHapyPig

if you keep running it like that without a tune, you're gonna blow an engine. your afr's are all over the place, you are running dangerously lean at the top end of the graph where it peaks at 14:1, i'm suprised you haven't done some serious damage... I guess this is what an afr graph looks like when you slap on a turbo kit, boost controller and just go for glory! I would also argue your turbo is very laggy, the car musn't feel very drivable, you could consider changing turbo's, a tune will improve your low end response, so will cams but only to a certain extent. as far as mods go (apart from a remap or aftermarket ecu - don't get an SAFC, stock remap is better if you wanna do it on the cheap) i wouldn't worry about z32 afm or electronic boost controller, your tuner will be able to tell if it's spiking or your current afm is maxing out, and the manual boost controllers some dude is selling here (there is a big topic about it somewhere on the forum, search) are great. - Fuel pump & injectors - high flow cat + air filter - cams - head work (porting etc.) - bottom end (pistons, rods etc.) and also have a think about how long you're gonna keep the rb20det for, and if it might be worthwhile sticking an rb25det in it. Also consider "safety" mods such as oil cooler, aftermarket radiator

check power steering fluid level

well, 5 litres should be about right! so just get 2x2.5litres bottles, you'll use approx 4-4.5litres

make sure the person who you get this measurement off doesn't have aftermarket castor rods or bushes!......

r32 gtst is around 2.5-3 litres in gearbox and 1-1.5litres in diff from memory!

garage-13.com sell c'spanners for tien suspension, which is more or less the same as any... you can also get them at most places who sell bearings (cbc bearings etc.) but tend to be a bit more expensive than the tien ones. though... i just use the screwdriver and hammer trick!

the most likely explanation of your problem, is that the brakes haven't been bleed properly. Make sure you are using the correct procedure to bleed the brakes, sometimes they can be a bitch because air bubbles can get stuck in the lines, just make sure you do it in the correct order and keep pumping pedal until no bubbles come out.

wheel alignment they check suspension settings for toe, camber, castor etc. wheel balancing is on the actual rim where they put weights on the rim itself in specific spots so the wheel is balanced when rotated. Should cost less than $10 a wheel to get balanced, do it at same place that does the wheel alignment.

I would suggest changing pretty much everything you can, since you don't know when it's last been done So. Oil + filter Coolant Gearbox Oil Diff Oil Air filter (check + replace if necessary) Fuel Filter Fuel Pump (if still has stock pump it's a good idea go walbro or bosch 040) Plugs (check and replace if necessary) Timing belt (if hasn't been done and > 100,000kms) Belts (check and replace if necessary) Brake Fluid (maybe) Check ------ power steering fluid and clutch fluid all boots and bushes for cracks / leaking (including shocks & driveshafts) for oil leaks brake pad thickness, brake rotor thickness, run out, cracks in rotors etc. tyres and wheels (including wheel bearings) headlights,brakelights, indicators etc. fuel lines, vacuum lines for cracking/deterioration radiator hoses as above wheel alignment fuel pressure timing & idle the list goes on....

i use motul turbolight 4100 10w40 semi-synthetic, it's around $40/5litres

just go to your local nissan dealer parts dept, they should be able to look it up for you. (plus if their computer is wrong you can take it back and yell at them...)

fyi, your idle speed and tune up specs should be on a sticker somewhere on underside of bonnet or in engine bay somewhere.

bypass your heater by re-routing the 2 coolant lines going to the heater (through firewall on passengers side). This will fix your problem for now until you can get the heater unit fixed/replaced.

if you suspect it's running too rich best way to check is get it dyno'd

ok, here is procedure to check your AAC valve properly. you'll need a multimeter. my guess is either voltage between pin 1 and ground will be wrong, or the resistance between pin 1 and pin 2 are wrong, if everything is fine start looking at other things. (sorry about the large images...) hope this helps

if you disconnect aac valve, i think it will just stall like it's doing. just because you cleaned it isn't gonna fix it if it's broke gimme 2 secs, im just uploading the relevent sections of engine manual for you!

because it is fine when A/C is on, it will most likely be the AAC valve I'll just dig up info on how to test the AAC valve and post in a sec...

i wouldn't stress too much, just spray the crap out of it. I used brake cleaner. Someone suggested to use carby cleaner, it is more or less the same as brake cleaner but it has stuff to dissolve grease/oil as well. Though someone told me recently _not_ to use it because it leaves a residue. I'd play it safe and use brake cleaner. It doesn't matter which direction you spray it from.

might want to hit it with some brake cleaner, it's quite common for brakes to squeek (sit at a busy intersection for 10 minutes and every second car will have brake squeek), it's usually not a major problem, more of an annoyance. It's basically caused by the back of the brake pad vibrating/rubbing against where it touches the caliper, normally you put some anti-squeel grease on it when you put pads in. You can get free brake safety checks at most brake places so might be an idea to go down and get their opinion on it.

if you're in melbourne. www.garage-13.com does guard rolling for around $45 a corner

yes find out offsets and widths (i think 32 gtst is 16x6.5 +40offset but might wanna check that) and use calculator, then have a look at your guards and current rims to get an idea of what it will look like, my guess is you may have to roll your guards if you get scrubbing. http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html

have you checked your powersteering fluid???

you may have guard problems due to offsets

r32 gts-t type m is BM 44

i don't think brake booster is as important as master cylinder, however i suggest you consult an expert because i don't know for sure. All the brake booster does is use vacuum from the car's engine to multiply the force on the master cylinder, it's just a diaphragm and a valve, so i don't think it really matters, but someone might want to confirm this...