MerlinTheHapyPig

ask the engineer...... my guess is you'll need r34 rb25det brakes, because the r34 rb25det has more power than the r33 rb25det. I doubt r32 brakes will suffice, and you'll also probably need the r34 master cylinder.

i'm not good with autos, here is a list of possible problems and suggested solutions http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshoo...aa072702a_3.htm almost every one says "check transmission fluid level" so i suggest that's the first thing you should do from above website... good luck mate..... the above website also suggests before writing your transmissino off as a rebuild first replace the fluid and filter, make sure you use correct type of fluid.

coil over slides? so do you mean you have an adjustable coller at the base of the spring? in which case, when you adjust it, you are not compressing the spring any more or less. All you are doing is moving where the base of the spring sits, it doesn't compress the spring, it just moves it up or down.

215s on a 8 will be ok, maybe lower even like 205s or something if you want stretched look. keep in mind though, i've found stretched tyres with camber.. wear on the insides faster, I try to use properly matched size/tyres for fronts and then stretched on rear for drift.

standard sr20det master is fine, brake lines fine also suggest you do 5-stud conversion while your at it

well, stock r32 offset is 16x6.5 +40, gtr is 16x8 +30 ^ i think the above is right but you might want to check so... quick calculation means 32gtr rims stick out an extra 29mm, so 30mm spacers should make stock 32gtst rims look like you have gtr ones, which in my experience fit fairly well on gts-t guards, so go 15-30mm spacers But... DONT rely on the above, look at your stock rims, and take a measuring tape to them and see where the edge of the rim will sit with 15mm or 20mm or 30mm spacers on them..... you may need to roll your guards. Also... keep in mind in most states spacers are illegal.

have you bleed the brakes correctly? i have plenty of friends who have used stock s13/sr20det master cylinder w/ r32 and r33 brakes with no problems, but sr20det master cyl is better than ca18det. Re-bleed the brakes and see if you still have trouble... I'd suggest using an sr20det master or rb20det (if it bolts up easily). Your problem is most likely due to bleeding brakes, but i'd play it safe and use the sr master

anyone here coming? i'll be driving the red r32 4-door

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=107912

haven't heard anything about rda pads, from memory, when i called up rda to get prices for rotors, they didn't have rda pads for what i wanted, they said they had EBC yellow stuff or green stuff or whatever (can't remember for sure), because i wanted something a bit better than standard. as far as pads go, bendix range is quite popular and also rb74 pads, have a search because some of the harder pads tend to chew through rotors or leave excessive brake dust. as far as flushing brake fluid. Buy some fluid that is a different colour from the one you have, get a friend to sit in engine bay and top up the fluid while you open the bleed valve on one of the brakes, then bleed it until the new fluid comes out, then go around to the other 3 and do the same thing. make sure the fluid level doesn't get too low because you don't want to let air bubbles get in.

http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html

measure your rotor thickness with a micrometer and compare it to stock rotor specs for min thickness. (i think dba.com.au webpage has this info) If you have a 5mm lip, i gaurantee you will need new rotors! if it's 0.5mm then maybe not. Run your finger along the surface of the rotor, and if you feel noticable grooves in the surface you should machine / replace. With a .5mm lip, you probably want to get them machined regardless if they have reasonable thickness left on them. They say you should also replace pads if you machine/change rotors, but if they still have plenty of thickness, just take the pads out, place them face down on a concrete surface and rub them a few times, that will get rid of any grooves imprinted into the surface of the brake pad. Also, RDA rotors are significantly cheaper than DBA, and imo are just as good. (i think i paid $99 per rotor for stock r32 gts-t direct from rda, the price from dba was more like $180-200)

it would depend on the tuning. No real way to tell without the tuning software. my guess given the car it came from was only lightly modded, would be stock injectors.

awesome, thanks for the replies, that's exactly what i wanted to know. posted same question on ns.com and everyone is going "check the coil packs", "check the ignitor".... no1 seemed to figure out that i was talking about the bare motor Now i have to figure out how to crank the motor with no gearbox/flywheel, i might have to borrow some stuff from the local wrecker, or just wait till i blow a motor and have it all out of the car. Has anyone done a comp test with engine out before? should i put oil in it to do the test?

I've just picked up a bare motor (rb20det), and apparently it was taken out of the car because it had developed a misfire / loosing a cylinder and the owner was going rb25det anyway. my first thoughts would be that it would be a coil pack / ignitor / spark plug / injector or something that would cause this, my question is Can something internal cause this sort of thing? I'm trying to ascertain if the motor itself is going to be ok, the guy i bought it off didn't bother taking the motor apart or doing a comp / leak down test or anything so im wondering if the engine might be ok, and it was actually an electrical problem, they tried changing coil packs and spark plugs but that was about as far as they got diagnosing. I'm wondering a) what can cause this sort of problem head/block wise? b) if i pull apart the engine, what should i check for? I've popped off the rocker covers and had a squiz, everything looks ok as far as i can see, if i can find a starter motor and flywheel i might try doing a compression test. Any ideas would be great!

i used redline on my 32 gts-t gearbox, used to be notchy shifting into 2nd and the redline oil fixed it, fantastic stuff and well worth the cost. (I used redline mt-90 but apparently most common for skylines is lightweight shockproof)

all r33 gts-t's came with an LSD, however there was one model released with an active-lsd from factory (which is what the light on the dash is for which you see on some r33s)

the trend with drift spring rates, seems to be to have higher rates on front and softer on rear. a common combination is 8kg front / 6kg rear

hmmmmm i might consider chucking the s13 diff in and try it out one thing i don't like about my car, is when drifting on a 2nd gear corner, i am really running out of gear, and coming close to limiter, but the corner is too tight for 3rd, because the revs will be too low when i exit the corner. I might try using the s13 diff just to test it out. so back to the original question, can i just change the ring gear on the 32 centre? or do i have to change the pinion also

hm, so are s13 ratios better? I get confused with ratios So, with a 3.9 ratio would mean say at 7,000rpm in 2nd gear, would you be going faster or slower than with the 4.3 ratio? (i think from memory 7,000rpm/2nd in my r32gtst is around 90km/hr)

Bid of an odd question. I know s13 and r32 diffs have different ratios, but can I use an S13 centre in an R32 housing using the R32 ring gear and pinion? They are both R200 centres, just wondering if this is going to work, because I have a spare S13 diff sitting here as a spare for my R32, I just assumed it was going to fit but I found out yesterday that they had different ratios. Cheers Guys! (btw, S13 SR20DET diff vs R32 Gts-t type m diff)

Interesting question, however I have a feeling you can't really do anything about it without taking the diff out and getting a diff specialist to look at it. My advise is to go to a workshop that specialises in diff's and ask them what you can do. or find someone with a looser 2-way and do a swap. Some diff's (eg Nismo) allow you to adjust how tight it is, but most diff's don't.

you have a mechanical lsd, nice score!

reverse?? fyi the difference between a 1 way and a 2-way is that 1 ways work on acceleration, and 2 ways work on both acceleration and decelleration (not forward and reverse) anyway, back to the question. most likely it had a mechanical diff or a very fresh viscous lsd. Mechs' tend to have a very sharp "lock" (viscous lsd's are less noticable) due to clutch plates to activate it, and depending on how new / worn the diff is you'll get varying degrees of tightness from diff to diff. If it's a 2-way, you'll notice a bit of understeer when slowing down and turning into a corner. but it's sometimes hard to tell the difference between a 1-way or 1.5 way or 2-way with the diff in the car...

skyline r200 lsd's are easy to weld, there are inspection ports you can weld it through, didn't cause any problems for the guy who did mine (r32 viscous lsd) i guess you could also look for a diff from a non-turbo skyline (assuming centre fits) which isn't an lsd.