MerlinTheHapyPig

welding them or using a mini-spool? I've been using a welded diff for 12 months now, daily driven, and drifted around once a week. and it's still going strong. If you're interested in drift, welding a diff is probable best budget mod you can do to your car! You might be able to get a diff place to make up a minispool, but also consider the cost of that, vs a spare second hand diff centre.

marking the tail shaft is to maintain the balance of the drivetrain. However if you swapped housings, obviously it's not balanced. me and a friend recently killed an rx7 diff, this was apparently because when we installed the centre in the housing, the bearings on each end wern't adjusted properly and the pinion was too close to the crown wheel. The car also had a broken diff mount which contributed. Take it to a diff specialist and get his opinion on what might have caused the problem.

use offset calculator http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html

I tried to find one, and was unsucessful, best solution is to grab a spare center and weld it up

im still in...

when I installed mine on my R32, i noticed a big difference, but it could have been my imagination. Apparently rear suspension isn't effected greatly by a strut bar, because most of the suspension compnents are bolted on to the subframe rather than the chassis (whilst skyline front suspension is connected to chassis) http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...ar_rear_R32.jpg

stock r32 gts-t diffs aren't mechanical btw, they're viscous (unless nissan released a couple of freak gts-t's with mech's..... who knows)

www.garage-13.com can get new kaaz diffs, so speak to them, if it's on the catalogue then they can most likely organise it.

goto http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html stock r32 gts-t are 6.5inch +40 offset (i think) so for front The clearance from stut housing to the inside of the wheel will be 9mm LESS The outside edge of the wheel will EXTEND an extra 3mm rear The clearance from stut housing to the inside of the wheel will be 11mm LESS The outside edge of the wheel will EXTEND an extra 27mm rear is more of a worry than front, but it's almost the same as GTR width/offset (8inch +30) which fits ok on r32 gts-t in my experience, it may be wise to get the guards lipped perhaps.

No, in Victoria, spacers are not legal (regardless of type) for more info http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrpdf/rdsafe/VSI%208.pdf

all this changes, is where the bottom of the spring sits, it doesn't compress the spring any more. And wont make it a harsher ride (unless you've lowered it so much that the shock is bottoming out) The advantage of body adjustment, is that you can adjust the height without changing the stroke of the shock absorber (extreme lowering of the collar under the spring can cause the shock to bottom out)

although, i woudln't trust them to do any useful work, try pedders 20something point safety check. i think it's $20-30 or so, and they give you a full report on your car.

most importers i've seen tend to put a generic r32 or r33 tyre placard, which includes wheel sizes for GTR's aswell. But if your one only lists 6.5inch as widest width, then technically, you are right. 7.5 would be widest you can go, but realistically you are unlikely to be defected for too wide with only 8.5inch wide rims.

yes

check with nissan for new second hand ~$100

in boot area

r32 gtr rims seem to fetch a fair bit, but i've seen s15 rims go for around $400 or so for a full set... nothing special, stock r32 or z32 or r33 rims are all 16inch, and you shouldn't have much trouble finding a set for around the $100 mark I know oakleigh mechanical repairs have a few sets of stock r32 gts-t rims, should be able to bargain him down pretty cheap on a set of those without tyres. Then you can grab some second hand tyres. That's probably your best option. speak to paul 176 kangaroo rd, oakleigh. ph 9568 4887

i was quite sceptical when installing mine, as to if it would make any difference at all. Front didn't make much difference (I put them on first) then a week later I put the rears on and it felt heaps better, (using for drift, tended to be alot more stable)

just make sure offset and width suit the car, you want to make sure they'll fill the guards properly. http://product.permaisuri.com/Content/Prod...&strBrandID=132 above is a great site for different wheel styles, have a look at some of the stuff Work has to offer, Work VS-SS or Volk GT-C's are great

ecu remap, much better than safc, and cheaper than aftermarket ecu

you have to use the GTR hood release latch to fit gtr bonnet if you want to run gtr injectors and get rid of speed limiter, consider getting your ECU remapped, because that is best way to remove speed limiter (or full aftermarket ecu) Series 4 rx7 injectors work, but a few people have had problems tuning, because the amount of fuel they inject isn't that accurate. GTR injectors should be fine. search on net for manual, there are a few people on ebay selling full manuals on cd.

i suggest you remove it from the car!

look in vic section http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=24324 link to wreckers / workshops etc.

1 way will lock under acceleration 1.5 way will lock under acceleration and half lock under deceleration

i usually use brake cleaner, but someone told me once carby cleaner was better because it also removes carbon deposits.