MerlinTheHapyPig

don't see why you would have a problem with tuning stock ecu, just adjust the pulse width appropriately. Wouldn't using a powerfc to do this do exactly the same thing?

it could be your wheel alignment, or wheel balance also. check the run-in on your discs

pump seems to be most likely culprit. maybe take it to a place that specialises in power steering. Must have been on the way out, since doing donuts or holding it at full lock shouldn't stuff anything up

That slight understeer with the 1.5 way may not be diff related, and probably fixable with adjusting suspension / swaybar settings a bit. I'd suggest a 1.5way mech, but if you don't like it, rebuilt stocky or maybe a 1way might be the go. Unless you're drifting, for a street car occasional track drive, a good stocky does the job.

no standard camber adjustment use off centre bushes, or aftermarket camber arms.

even with handbrake released, there is still some pressure from the shoes, which is what is making the disc hard to get out. If you have caliper off, nothing else to unbolt/unscrew. don't touch the drum brake components unless you have to, because they are a pain to work on (watch out for springs hitting u in the face etc!), and you probably won't remember how they went back together again. The rubber bung thing is so you can access the handbrake adjustment thingo. if you don't have any luck with the bolts, you can try backing off the handbrake adjustment using this, but best to leave it alone if you can help it. (if you rotate the rotor so this hole is on bottom i think, you should see the handbrake adjuster, which is what stevel is talking about Also, go easy with the rubber mallet if you are re-using the rotor, because the metal surface of the rotor is relatively soft and you can put dents in it with a mallet. You shouldn't need to bash it, just use the 2 screws trick.

make sure handbrake is released (duh) and there are 2 screw holes near the centre of the rotor. you screw correct size bolts into those, and it pushes off the rotor. It is hard to get off because the handbrake shoes are tight against the inside of the rotor.

i know in vic, braided lines are not legal. This is because braided lines will rub through any rubber hoses that it touches.

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yeah, for daily driver. fair enough. It really depends how competative you want to get with track events etc. The more and more you put on your car, the less street legal it's gonna get. e.g. my car is now almost 100% drift car now, since I bought a sigma as a daily driver Well, i'm sure you can buy suspension from many countries which would come under the category as "too stiff". I'm using Quantum suspension in my car now, which is an English brand, which is just as hard (if not harder) than a lot of japanese brands i've seen/used. It seems as though alot of the japanese brands are more suitable for drift than circuit

8kg/mm front and 6kg/mm rear are quite common combinations for drift cars, that is what I would suggest. As far as damper goes. have a play around with it. But you'll probably find full hard on rear, and fairly soft on front will be the best combination for drift / oversteer. A lot of people are selling japanese suspension and buying the group buy stuff, so it's a good opportunity to pick up some of the jap stuff. You might also find, that with this style of suspension, you can leave swaybar upgrades alone for now. Whilst im sure SK is about to flame me for recommending japanese suspension ;-) -- but the reality is, japanese suspension with high spring rates are ideal for drift, and has been proven in japan (though not too street friendly...)

yes, you can get adjustable castor rods, but keep in mind, they are a bit harsher for driving on road. www.garage-13.com sell them, better than going ebay. because you won't have to pay ebay fees...

yeah, adjustable castor arms are my advise. www.garage-13.com sell them

I've found a blow-torch to heat up the thing the bolt goes through works wonders (just be careful you don't use it on anything that's not metal) After smacking it with a hammer for half an hour, used a blowtorch to heat it up a bit, one light tap with the hammer and it just fell out!

stock turbo's are not ball bearing

I think I asked this in another thread, but you may have not seen it. Care to elaborate on this? What aspects of shock valving improve shock performance? It's a very broad statement, you can pay from $1k - $10k for a set of japanese shocks, you can't put them all in the same basket

anything below 15 as a cold weight, is ok for turbo's 10 as cold weight is fine though i'd use a higher hot weight -- especially since it's an older engine. (also, there are climate differences between here and japan) I've had good results in rb20det with motul turbolight 4100 (10w40), and a lot of people use mobil1 which is 5w50 from memory. Yes oil light will come on for a second or two, as long as it doesn't stay on, or come on while you're driving. Also the factory oil pressure gauge is sometimes a bit dodgy, consider aftermarket. not really sure about your problem, but it may not be oil related.

so, who went? was best drift nite yet i reckon, nice and dry weather and no wait between laps i bumped into a few skyline owners, mine was the red 4-dr r32, so, pop in and say hi next time http://merlin.garage-13.com/calder/tim02.avi

i think there were a few different diffs that came standard / options with r32 gtr's I remember reading some people had mechanical lsd's stock, and some were viscous. What is the price of that diff you've found? kaaz 1.5 or 2ways can be had for around $1,100 or a second hand one for $600 or so. contact, www.garage-13.com I know alex has a couple of second hand mechanical diffs lying around for a very good price They also specialise in 5-stud conversions for s13's, so they can let you know what you'll need.

sounds expensive though. let me know what they say. But, for the $2k+ this thing may cost you. Is it worth it? your nismo gt will last ages if it's only done 5000kms and is still nice and tight so, expect to get $1k for your old diff, $1k difference will pay for at least one diff recondition down the track. If you don't drift, it should last 1-2 years easily i reckon, I know people who have had 2-ways last them longer than 1 year with regular drift without reshim (diff in question is still working great)... no maintenence? any lsd will require regular oil replacement etc.

yeah, i've heard nismo gt-pro's are quite tight. eventually the shims will wear out a bit and it'll loosen up, man i would kill for a nice tight 2-way like that( toite like a tiger...). but i'm too poor /pulls out the mig welder

every 2 years / 50,000kms usually for gearbox oil

approx 3 litres for rb25, 3.7 is definantly enough. my rb20 box took 2.5 litres from memory. motul and castrol probably cheaper, though do a search for "redline" on the forum, and you'll see how many skyline owners swear by it. "liquid gold" mate!!!

I've heard you mention this a few times about japanese suspenison. Care to elaborate on this? I'm just a bit curious about what aspects of suspension valving improve shock performance. (It's also a fairly broad statement don't you think...) I'm curious about what differences there are in valving between say Tien Flex shocks and Bilstien shocks. And also if some of the more expensive japanese brands illeviate this problem. (after all, brands like Tien in Japan are considered the "budget" coilover shock) Actually the brand of shocks I'm using at the moment are Quantum, which are some english brand, can't find much info on them, only that they cost alot more than Tiens new. This was the only info i could find on them if you can read japanese... http://www.nova-eng.co.jp/Part/QUANTUM/quantum-1.htm sorry if im hijacking your thread mate!

approx $120 for 3.7 litres but well worth it imo.