MerlinTheHapyPig

um... drain oil remove filter replace drain plug & filter fill...

cant remember if i sent a pm, but after tail lights... please pm if you have decided if you're wrecking it. But, yeah..... as predator said g/l selling an rb20de/AUTO....

check idle rpm settings in power fc maybe

no, this one works fine, just this intermittant problem every now and then. But for testing purposes it's fine. Though, I replace it because it was causing that problem. Kaz, i'd recommend going to a different wreckers from now on <_< If you find yourself in SE suburbs, try Oakleigh Mechanical Repairs 176 Kangaroo Rd, Oakleigh ph 9568 4877

second always worst in skyline boxed i've noticed. My 2nd used to feel really notchy when going into second esp when cold. Changed to redline and it's fine.

here are some before and after respray shots of my drift pig...

i'd be down... let me know weekend after autosalon is good for me...

What he said. Plus consider changing fuel pump. Old stock r32 gtst pump ~15 years old... fuel pump failure can kill your motor. just grab a walbro. Lots of the sponsors sell them. And also spark plugs won't necessarily need replacing, just check them, if they're iridiums they're ment to last 100,000kms... Also check all bushes and boots for cracking/leaking etc.

no point going z32 afm. it's more expensive than rb20det afm.. I didn't know cefiro's had different ones. anyway, stock afm from an r32 gtst or an r33 gtst should be around $100 from wreckers (green label) z32 are same size as rb20det but have more resolution. If you actually *need* the extra resolution, ie u have enough power that u are running out of res. you would probably already have an aftermarket ecu and aftermarket injectors anyway... I have an rb20det afm if you need one to test it. It works fine, just occasionally (like maybe every 10 times I drive the car) the idle plays up a bit. U can have it for $30 if you just need something to test with. PM me if interested in in bentleigh, vic.

40 offset is crap. You can get spacers, but they aren't legal. You may be able to get spacers to convert stud pattern, but it's not really worth it. Just keep your eyes open for some rims in decent offset & the right stud pattern. skyline stud pattern is 114.3x5

right...... you can be the first person to do an single cam conversion on an rb20det!!

use http://marksink.com/tire_wheel_offset/offset.html stock r32 gtr offset is 8wide +30 so fronts will sit out 10mm wider (and 16mm less clearance from strut housing) rears will retract 2mm (and 28mm less clearance from strut housing). ^ could look wierd, because fronts will stick out more than rears. you haven't posted the offset for the 19x8 pair, so impossible to tell. However I gaurantee they will not fit as they are 5x112 stud pattern. I'd also suggest 19's are too big for skyilnes, won't do much for handling over 17s and probably not much better than stock, just bling factor Cheers

how do u figure??? in drift you always run less air in fronts. by overinflating the rears it makes it more easy to spin them in a drift -- whilst you want as much traction as possible from front tyres. anyway, What are your subframe bushes set to? drift or grip... thanks for mentioning hicas lock.... that's something i haven't gotten around to getting rid of, but to be honest, i've been drifting fine with it in for 6 months now. you want settings more tailored to a skyline, vahoumis drives a S13... skylines don't like to be lowered too much, whilst s13's can be dumped on it's arse without screwing up the wheel alignment. Just something to consider.

oh and just to add. Rear strut brace for me, made a *huge* difference..... get one of them too!

grab some whiteline adjustable swaybars. ~190 each (check http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=92126) play around with the settings, but generally rears on hard for less understeer. For Drift, I'd say 1. Diff 2. More Castor (Rods or bushes or some form of adjustment) are *essential*, I suggest those be your next moves. Stock Viscous LSD in 12-15 year old cars tends to be quite worn. Very important that your diff locks properly. A good article on diffs for drift is http://www.garage-13.com/difftech.html As rob82 suggested, can look at tyres too, i usually inflate rears to 38-40psi helps it break traction easily. Fronts lower (i run 34psi or so). But experiment and see what works best. front tyres should have plenty of tread. Very important. Also consider power / tyre choice. stock r32 will have lots of trouble breaking traction with 18x10's and a stock lsd. Consider grabbing some cheapo drift rims when starting out. Handbrake is generally safer than clutch kick for beginners when drifting (helps you wash off speed). Practice 90deg and 180deg turns with handbrake. and practice doing donuts. With your understeer problem, I'd say it's probably your technique rather than car setup. I wouldn't worry too much about swaybars for now. but they are something to consider in the future. Japanese hard as f**k coilovers tend to be ok with stock swaybars. I'd say get Diff and Castor first, then start thinking about swaybars. My R32 understeered like a pig when I first started, but you just have to learn when to handbrake, when to gas, when to kick the clutch and you can make them slide very nicely.

bump, still for sale (both GTR and work)

yeah, pm me details. I have a friend who is looking into injected lpg for his rx7

where do u get injected gas systems? i though u could only get carby setups for gas in australia..

they will need to be rebuilt. Check shafts for scoring (chrome chipped off or rust etc.) http://www.shockreco.com.au/ give them a call. Though i have a feeling that they can't do JIC's because they are a slightly different type of shock or something. Generally you should rebuild them in pairs, so you'll need to do both shocks. Price is around $150 per shock for basic rebuild + extra if shafts are scored. How much did you pay for them? might be worthwhile selling and getting something else.

Melbourne, SE Suburbs

work wheels are sold pending payment. GTR rims still for sale (plenty of interest, but no takers yet)

hmmmm..... marketing ploys maybe.. I just go by what i've been told. so sorry if it's inaccurate -- ill have to speak to guy who told me that in the first place. fair comment though. Is there any difference at all between the two methods? There are quite a few major brands being released with both methods of adjustment these days. is this just so you can go lower? what's the story there... sorry if i touched a nerve there, though, what i said was what i've heard from a few people, so may be some bad info going around there.

no, nitrogen is not flammable

it won't have body adjustment it's ok, to change height with preload. but body adjustment is the proper way to do it. though, tien HAs dont have it,

if your front brakes look like: http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/merli...ypig/brakes.jpg they are 4-pot gts-t type m calipers. don't think you'll have any problems as long as you choose the correct offset. I'd be more worried about your guards...